56_kruiser wrote in post #18535589
I tried your suggestion for Live mode. It seems to not work whatsoever near accurate, at least with this Bower lens (again, maybe the camera is not gettinga ny readings from it at all?).
I'll show a couple pictures below:
When using live mode, in order to get the dialed speed on the -2 to +2 meter to be at 0, or center, it sets the speed to 1/250th, and the picture would be black. (I'm doing this inside).
Then when I change out of live view, this is what is displayed:
Shouldn't both be in synch? In any event, the settings used in live mode don't work.
FYI...when not using live mode, if I dial the speed to get the pointer to the zero point, it sets it to 2.5 seconds, and I get a relatively decent picture.
I had downloaded the app because I thought I would need a light meter and was going to toy with that before buying a light meter. It gives readings for time about the same as the camera.
I don't know what is happening when you are in Lv mode, I suspect you have something odd set up, but it is obvious from the fact that you have a completely black screen that the exposure is way under despite the meter being centered. The results showing on the info mode show that you are indeed at a minimum 2 stops underexposed, just what one would suspect. I would do a full reset of all of the camera settings, and see if that helps. I'm not a great user of LV, it's simply not useful for most of my photography.
One of the great advantages of Canon bodies, which it seems is absent on many other brands, is the fact that you can simply use Aperture Priority autoexposure mode with manual lenses with no electrical contacts. If you set the camera to Av and then simply select any of the manual aperture settings directly on the lens, the camera although displaying ƒ/0.0 will still adjust the shutter speed to achieve a correct exposure. You can even set exposure compensation, and bracketing if you need to. In fact Program mode will still work, I'm not sure about Green Box, but there is a possibility that it might too. The exposure automation knows that it can't adjust the aperture, so it simply adjusts the shutter, and possibly the ISO if that is also set to auto, or you have the safety override on.
When it comes to the lightmeter app on your phone I would set it to incident mode, just tap the circular bit in the top right of the screen. the center part will just white when in incident mode. This uses the forward facing camera's exposure metering system to provide an incident reading
For an incident reading you have to have the meter at the subject location, or if outside in the same light, to make a correct measurement. You can tap the measure button to lock the reading, which is useful. With the ISO set to the value you will be using the outside scale is the Aperture value, and the inside value is the shutter speed. The dots give you the one third stop settings. Reading off is simple, Pick an aperture and read off the adjacent shutter speed. Or pick the shutter speed, and read the aperture value. I really like incident meters, especially the ones with the analogue scale readouts like this app has. They are very useful since it allows you to see every possible choice of aperture and shutter speed the current light level and ISO allows for.
On my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 I have checked this app against my 50D and it matches the exposure to within 1/3 EV across a range of light levels against my grey target.
You don't really need the EV setting these days. In the past there were some cameras that allowed you to set the EV value, then simply change one control to adjust the shutter speed and aperture together to maintain a constant exposure. The EV scale is based on EV0 being an exposure of 1s @ ƒ/1. Each unit of EV is one stop of exposure. It is independent of ISO, so if you change the ISO the EV value will change. The one time that EV is still commonly used is in camera specifications. You will find that for your camera Canon specify minimum and maximum EV values for both the AF system, and the exposure metering. I know for example that the 5DIII has AF specified to work over a range of -2EV to 18EV @ ISO100 and 23°C. Now you can pretty much stop worrying about EV.