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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing
Thread started 15 Jan 2018 (Monday) 07:48
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Does FoCal work

 
anitaw2
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Jan 15, 2018 07:48 |  #1

I'm wondering if I should invest in this? has anyone here tired it and liked it. I am from Canada, I don't know the price.


Anita W.

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Archibald
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by Archibald.
Jan 15, 2018 09:21 |  #2

anitaw2 wrote in post #18541254 (external link)
I'm wondering if I should invest in this? has anyone here tired it and liked it. I am from Canada, I don't know the price.

You can get the price from the FoCal web site.
https://www.reikanfoca​l.com/ (external link)

I have not used it, but noticed that it gets good reviews. You can use Dot-Tune. It is also effective, and costs nothing. It's what I use.
https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM (external link)
http://www.fredmiranda​.com/forum/topic/11872​47/0 (external link)


Pentax Spotmatic F with 28/3.5, 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 135/3.5; Canon digital gear
C&C always welcome.
Picture editing OK

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CyberDyneSystems
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Jan 15, 2018 09:49 |  #3

Ditto with Dot tune.


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bpalermini
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by bpalermini.
Jan 15, 2018 09:50 |  #4

Yes, it works. I have been using FoCal for about 6 years. I find that it works great with my Canon lenses and bodies and it makes a difference in my photos. It is the first thing I do when I get a new piece of equipment.

Older versions of the software were less stable and tended to crash some but still worked. Newer versions are stable and have streamlined the analysis so it goes fairly quickly per lens/body adjustment.

If you have newer Canon equipment you have to manually make the adjustments to the body through the analysis but the software very clearly leads you through the process. I believe that with Nikon equipment the process is fully automatic like it was when I had a Canon 5D MkII body. Apparently, Canon eliminated some control from their API in more recent bodies.

One tip for best results is that you need a lot of light on the target. You need to be getting decent shutter speeds (at least appropriate for the lens you are testing) with the ISO at 200 and the aperture at wide open which can be a problem with long lenses + TC's.

I just got a 5D MkIV body last week and adjusted all my L lenses including my long lenses with TC's on the new body. I think the largest adjustment range was from -1 to +10 depending on the combo. None ended up needing 0 adjustment.

In my opinion, FoCal is worth the cost and I would highly recommend doing a MFA on all body/lens combinations in order to get the absolute best out of them.


Bob Palermini
1DX, 5DIV, 14 Rokinon, 16-35L II, 24-70L II, 100L, 70-200 IS 2.8L, 100-400L II, 400mm 2.8 IS II, 1.4xIII, 2xIII, 580EXII, YN560IV, RRS TVC23 + BH55, LRCC, Fuji X-E2, Fuji X30
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cigargreg
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Jan 15, 2018 10:08 |  #5

I could not get dot tune to work, I am sure it works. I ended up getting a SpyderLENSCAL for really cheap. It is still a manual process but had better results.


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agedbriar
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by agedbriar.
Jan 15, 2018 14:37 |  #6

I had Focus Tune, but results were inconsistent.

Now I find optimal AF Microadjustment manually (as advised by Canon), shooting a Siemens star to make the evaluation of achieved sharpness more accurate.

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anitaw2
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Jan 15, 2018 17:49 |  #7

Archibald wrote in post #18541296 (external link)
You can get the price from the FoCal web site.
https://www.reikanfoca​l.com/ (external link)

I have not used it, but noticed that it gets good reviews. You can use Dot-Tune. It is also effective, and costs nothing. It's what I use.
https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM (external link)
http://www.fredmiranda​.com/forum/topic/11872​47/0 (external link)

I just watched the video and printed the target. did everything he said and it was a total failure. I went 0,green dot focused, went -20, green dot focused, went +20, green dot focused. didn't matter what value I put, green dot focused. I did notice on the weekend that the lens focuses great on close objects but when my daughter went farther than 20 feet, the lens always missed focus by a lot/or picture was very soft


Anita W.

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anitaw2
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Jan 15, 2018 17:50 |  #8

agedbriar wrote in post #18541568 (external link)
I had Focus Tune, but results were inconsistent.

Now I find optimal AF Microadjustment manually (as advised by Canon), shooting a Siemens star to make the evaluation of achieved sharpness more accurate.
thumbnailHosted photo: posted by agedbriar in
./showthread.php?p=185​41568&i=i153825360
forum: RAW, Post Processing & Printing

how does this work?


Anita W.

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Archibald
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Jan 15, 2018 18:13 |  #9

anitaw2 wrote in post #18541741 (external link)
I just watched the video and printed the target. did everything he said and it was a total failure. I went 0,green dot focused, went -20, green dot focused, went +20, green dot focused. didn't matter what value I put, green dot focused. I did notice on the weekend that the lens focuses great on close objects but when my daughter went farther than 20 feet, the lens always missed focus by a lot/or picture was very soft

What lens?


Pentax Spotmatic F with 28/3.5, 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 135/3.5; Canon digital gear
C&C always welcome.
Picture editing OK

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bpalermini
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Jan 15, 2018 18:24 |  #10

anitaw2 wrote in post #18541741 (external link)
I just watched the video and printed the target. did everything he said and it was a total failure. I went 0,green dot focused, went -20, green dot focused, went +20, green dot focused. didn't matter what value I put, green dot focused. I did notice on the weekend that the lens focuses great on close objects but when my daughter went farther than 20 feet, the lens always missed focus by a lot/or picture was very soft

Are you sure you locked in the focus adjustment as you were trying DotTune? On Canon, it takes a click of the set button to lock the new setting in. + or - 20 certainly makes a big difference and should affect the focus confirmation dot.


Bob Palermini
1DX, 5DIV, 14 Rokinon, 16-35L II, 24-70L II, 100L, 70-200 IS 2.8L, 100-400L II, 400mm 2.8 IS II, 1.4xIII, 2xIII, 580EXII, YN560IV, RRS TVC23 + BH55, LRCC, Fuji X-E2, Fuji X30
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anitaw2
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Jan 15, 2018 19:02 |  #11

Archibald wrote in post #18541763 (external link)
What lens?

85mm f1.8


Anita W.

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Scrumhalf
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Jan 15, 2018 19:38 |  #12

FOcal works great! If you want a scientific/statistical approach to MFA, it's the way to go.


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gjl711
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Jan 15, 2018 20:37 |  #13

agedbriar wrote in post #18541568 (external link)
I had Focus Tune, but results were inconsistent.

Now I find optimal AF Microadjustment manually (as advised by Canon), shooting a Siemens star to make the evaluation of achieved sharpness more accurate.
thumbnailHosted photo: posted by agedbriar in
./showthread.php?p=185​41568&i=i153825360
forum: RAW, Post Processing & Printing

I always preferred the ISO12233 chart (external link). Same idea but a little easier to tell what you really have.


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agedbriar
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Post has been edited 1 month ago by agedbriar.
Jan 16, 2018 01:22 |  #14

anitaw2 wrote in post #18541744 (external link)
how does this work?

You shoot that target at different AF MA settings and compare the images: the image with the smallest blurred area around the center is the sharpest.

The Siemens star target allows a more accurate comparison of sharpness across various images (MA settings) than the classic "brick wall shots" would.




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anitaw2
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Jan 16, 2018 05:53 |  #15

ok, I tried Dot Tune this morning. Put it on ManFoc, micro focus to "0", got the target to focus correctly. Then put it on -10, no focus; put it on "0 again, focused; put it on +5, got focus; put it on +10, got focus; +15, focus; +20, focus... now isn't it suppose to stop focusing as I change the Micro adj.?


Anita W.

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Does FoCal work
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