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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses
Thread started 25 Jan 2018 (Thursday) 18:35
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100-400mm basic questions

 
kat.hayes
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145 posts
Joined Mar 2012
Jan 25, 2018 18:35 |  #1

I've never worked with one of these before.

1. Do you need a tripod when shooting with one of these for either photos or videos?

2. How well does this lens work with creating a bokeh effect behind the subject?

Thanks.




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gonzogolf
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Jan 25, 2018 19:26 |  #2

You don't need a tripod, just keep in mind the old 1/focal length rule of thumb. The IS on the original 100-400 gets you a couple stops but you still need to pay attention to your shutter speed.




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gonzogolf
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Jan 25, 2018 19:35 |  #3

IMAGE: https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Tiffany/i-7Z6jF3r/0/29cd35e1/X3/IMG_8688-X3.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://kevin-jones.smugmug.com/Othe​r/Tiffany/i-7Z6jF3r/A] (external link)

It can give pleasing bokeh, longer lenses give more blur but it's not necessary a bokeh machine like some primes.



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Tom ­ Reichner
"I am a little creepy"
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Omak, in north-central Washington state, USA
Post has been edited 27 days ago by Tom Reichner.
Jan 25, 2018 19:42 |  #4

kat.hayes wrote in post #18548944 (external link)
I've never worked with one of these before.

Are you asking about the older 100-400mm I.S., popularly called the "version 1"?
Or are you asking about the current 100-400mm "version 2", which was released about 3 years ago?

kat.hayes wrote in post #18548944 (external link)
1. Do you need a tripod when shooting with one of these for either photos or videos?

You don't need a tripod for still photos when working in "normal" conditions, expecially if you are using the newere version 2. . This is because these lenses have Image Stabilization, and the version 2 has 4 stop stabilization, which deems handholding viable for shooting in most circumstances.

I have no personal experience with video, but I would think that to make really excellent, professional quality videos, you would want to use a tripod all the time, regardless of what lens is being used.

kat.hayes wrote in post #18548944 (external link)
2. How well does this lens work with creating a bokeh effect behind the subject?

This lens - both the version 1 and version 2 - are very capable of producing very nice background blur - a.k.a. "bokeh".
But remember that capturing nice bokeh is 90% YOUR responsibility, and 10% the lens' capability.

It is primarily your expertise in assessing:

1 . subject : background distance ratios

and

2 . background textures and tones

that will result in pleasing bokeh.

Here is an example of what you can expect from the 100-400mm version 2 in regards to background blur ("bokeh"). Please notice that I used an aperture of f11 for this image, because that is how I controlled the degree to which the background would be blurred. If I had used f5.6, the background would be much more defocused, which would result in much bigger areas of colour that would blend into each other much more that what you are seeing here at f11.

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.

"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

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Larry ­ Johnson
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Jan 25, 2018 19:43 |  #5

When shooting video, I recommend a tripod for any lens mounted to a dlsr unless you want "Private Ryan" effect.


_______________
Ain't Nature Grand!
Shooting 7D2 with Canon 400mm, f/5.6.
60D, canon 18-135 EFS, and 1.4 extender in the bag.
flickr (external link)

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Snydremark
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Issaquah, WA USA
Jan 25, 2018 19:48 |  #6

In 10 years, I've mounted this lens to a tripod fewer than 20 times, I'd say. Shoot it almost exclusively handheld, v1 and v2, with no troubles; for everything from airshows, wildlife to landscapes.

Video I would definitely mount it for; shakey cam is more of a fad than a useful tool IMO ;)

Your bokeh is going to be controlled more by watching your subject to background distance *to* blur things out. The actual bokeh (quality of that blur) is decent, although it gets a little..."nervous"...i​f you have a lot of fine branches, fence, etc in the b/g.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

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cristphoto
Senior Member
843 posts
Joined Feb 2010
Maryland
Jan 26, 2018 08:29 |  #7

I have the version 1 lens and am happy with its performance. One thing you have to be careful of is when handheld and zooming out to 400 the lens acts like a trombone so your hands get further apart. Just be careful to remain steady and you will be fine.


5D MKIV, 5D MKIII, 1D MKIV, 24L II, 35L, 50L, 85L II, 100L Macro, 135L, 300LIS, 16-35L, 24-70L, 70-200LIS, 100-400LIS

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BigAl007
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Joined Dec 2010
Repps cum Bastwick, Gt Yarmouth, Norfolk, UK.
Jan 26, 2018 15:24 |  #8

It's possible to shoot any lens down to some very low shutter speeds, with or without IS, although your keeper rate will fall by a lot. The subject will have almost as much influence on how you shoot with this lens as its physical properties.

I have shot the original 100-400 with IS at 400mm and down as slow as 1/40s all hand held. I don't shoot a lot at that slow of a speed, but about 50% were sharp enough to use, even if I did bugger up the framing, or hit the wrong spot for the AF quite a few more times. Here are a couple of useable examples.

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1607/25923610005_94bdc490e4_o.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/FuMh​6c] (external link)Westland Sea King HAR3A (external link) by Alan Evans (external link), on Flickr


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Alan

My Flickr (external link)
My new Aviation images blog site (external link)

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Phoenixkh
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Gainesville, Florida
Jan 26, 2018 15:40 |  #9

I shoot my 100-400L ii three ways.. handheld, monopod and tripod. I have good success with all three.

Handheld for moving things... birds, etc.

Monopod if the birds are stationary.

Tripod if I know the birds well and know they aren't going anywhere. I shoot at a couple bird rookeries in the Spring. The large Florida wading birds sit around for long stretches of time there so the tripod works unless I'm going for bird in flight photos.


Kim (the male variety) Canon 1D IV | 6Dc | 16-35 f/4 IS | 24-105 f/4 IS |100L IS macro | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II | 100-400Lii | 50 f/1.8 STM | Canon 1.4X III
RRS tripod and monopod | 580EXII | Cinch 1 & Loop 3 Special Edition | Editing Encouraged

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ed ­ rader
"I am not the final word"
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silicon valley
Jan 28, 2018 13:39 as a reply to gonzogolf's post |  #10

I need a tripod. maybe YOU don't. I also need a monopod. remember the 100-400L II can be used for many types of photography.


http://instagram.com/e​draderphotography/ (external link)
5D4, 80d, 16-35L III, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS, 100-400L II, sigma 15mm FE, 35mm ef-s macro, 430exII, gitzo 3542, gitzo GM4562, markins Q10, markins Q3, kirk, really right stuff

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kat.hayes
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Joined Mar 2012
Jan 28, 2018 14:56 |  #11

How can you tell if you are using a version 1 or a version 2? What are the primary differences between the two?

Thanks.

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18548986 (external link)
Are you asking about the older 100-400mm I.S., popularly called the "version 1"?
Or are you asking about the current 100-400mm "version 2", which was released about 3 years ago?

You don't need a tripod for still photos when working in "normal" conditions, expecially if you are using the newere version 2. . This is because these lenses have Image Stabilization, and the version 2 has 4 stop stabilization, which deems handholding viable for shooting in most circumstances.

I have no personal experience with video, but I would think that to make really excellent, professional quality videos, you would want to use a tripod all the time, regardless of what lens is being used.

This lens - both the version 1 and version 2 - are very capable of producing very nice background blur - a.k.a. "bokeh".
But remember that capturing nice bokeh is 90% YOUR responsibility, and 10% the lens' capability.

It is primarily your expertise in assessing:

1 . subject : background distance ratios

and

2 . background textures and tones

that will result in pleasing bokeh.

Here is an example of what you can expect from the 100-400mm version 2 in regards to background blur ("bokeh"). Please notice that I used an aperture of f11 for this image, because that is how I controlled the degree to which the background would be blurred. If I had used f5.6, the background would be much more defocused, which would result in much bigger areas of colour that would blend into each other much more that what you are seeing here at f11.
thumbnailHosted photo: posted by Tom Reichner in
./showthread.php?p=185​48986&i=i20253944
forum: Canon EF and EF-S Lenses

.




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mike_d
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Jan 28, 2018 15:01 |  #12

kat.hayes wrote in post #18551089 (external link)
How can you tell if you are using a version 1 or a version 2? What are the primary differences between the two?

Thanks.

v1 has a push/pull zoom, like a trombone. v2 has a more conventional twist zoom.




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Tom ­ Reichner
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Joined Dec 2008
Omak, in north-central Washington state, USA
Jan 28, 2018 16:33 |  #13

kat.hayes wrote in post #18551089 (external link)
How can you tell if you are using a version 1 or a version 2? What are the primary differences between the two?

They are completely different lenses.

They look different.

They operate differently.

They have VERY different prices.

The original doesn't say II (two) on it and the new one does.

Here's the old one (version one):
https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com ...I5SYLHPUoe4waAtoBEA​Lw_wcB (external link)

And here's the new one (version two):
https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com ...PalzkjjBYoyUaAmO2EA​Lw_wcB (external link)

You can read in detail about the differences between these two lenses in both the SPECS and the REVIEWS areas in the web pages I linked to above.


.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

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ed ­ rader
"I am not the final word"
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22,712 posts
Gallery: 3 photos
Joined May 2005
silicon valley
Jan 28, 2018 21:45 |  #14

if you have version II your wallet will be significantly lighter :-P


http://instagram.com/e​draderphotography/ (external link)
5D4, 80d, 16-35L III, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS, 100-400L II, sigma 15mm FE, 35mm ef-s macro, 430exII, gitzo 3542, gitzo GM4562, markins Q10, markins Q3, kirk, really right stuff

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Snydremark
Myth-informed
18,008 posts
Gallery: 40 photos
Joined Mar 2009
Issaquah, WA USA
Jan 28, 2018 22:29 |  #15

Besides the physical operation, the MkII has much faster autofocus, much closer minimum focus distance and a 3rd IS option that only enables IS at the time the image is captured. It is also much more expensive


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

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100-400mm basic questions
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