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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 109
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Hey, Could someone please edit these to make them look better? I'm not very skilled at editing and would like to see what someone can do with them.
Anyway, tell me what you think of these unedited shots. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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What were you using for flash and what settings?
#1 has the best timing for the kickflip. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: if you tell me, we'll both know...
Posts: 450
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i agree with surf... #1 and #2 have the best timing. i'd bump up the ISO a bit to get some more speed from your lens, though. also check ahead of time with a test shot of the area to make sure that you're not getting any glare/reflection from the background signage glass. you could also use an additional flash w/ a slave trigger to get more all-over lighting (and even more speed to boot!) maybe try from an angle a little ahead of the skater and shooting up some? if you're new to shooting skaters, practice some during the daylight hours to get the timing down and then go for the low-light shots. (of course, always be on the lookout for stray boards!) post some more when you get the chance!
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 109
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These were the settings:
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#5 |
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Member
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it's a start, i like how you shot these a lot! heres some advice. i'm by no means a pro and don't get to shoot a lot of riding, but these are tips i've picked up:
try a vertical composition with those. you got the right idea with getting low, but using vertical comp would get rid of some of the unneeded space. the most important things when shooting skateboarding/bmx are: timing (which you have): some guys like to get the photo when the boards back under the skater's feet, and let the caption do the explaining. i like it when you can see the flip. composition: you always want to be able to see 2 things in these kinds of photos (transworld skateboarding/ride bmx). you want to see the persons face (preferably lit up) and the obstacle they are riding. if it's a rail, you wanna see the whole rail. if it's a ramp, you wanna at least see the coping, preferably the whole ramp to the ground. if you notice most of the compositions are pretty wide to get in the surroundings, and keep the subject out of the middle!! (whick you have done) lighting: dshootist and surf are right, use flash to pop the skater (even in daytime). i wouldn't suggest the onboard flash, using an external with a sync sord works well, then you can put other flashes on optical slaves. i've used up to 4 flashes when shooting. for shooting bmx (which i do from time to time) i use vivitar 285's, the 283 and 285 are widely available for pretty cheap, i suggest em. look into radio slaves as well if you want to get serious. you're off to a great start though. it's less about pp as it is initial setup and shooting, but keep working at it! try www.skateboardphotography.com for more tips, it helped me out a lot. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Posts: 396
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My recipe
1000 ISO or higher - get fast shutter speed to freeze action and reasonable DOF Manual mode 550EX or 580EX set to high speed sync The aim, get ambient ligt, but fill with flash. this shot was taken under cover at MK bus station on Sunday. It or one of it's friends should be in an MK local paper tommorow. I love the high speed sync... but I like your angles if you can get the light right... ![]()
__________________
Barry Rivett http://www.studioflash.co.uk http://www.hotshots.me.uk Canon digital bodies, lenses, flashes. Bowens Esprits and Monolites Elinchrom Style and Classics Interfit and Portaflash Last edited by brivett : 28th of March 2006 (Tue) at 16:46. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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Hey, what camera are you shooting with?
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#8 |
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Member
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First pic, the writing over the glass doorway, is that appropriate for the scateboarder?
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#9 |
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Member
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quick edit
Last edited by tbfoto : 22nd of November 2007 (Thu) at 19:07. |
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#10 |
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Member
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I really like the shots. I have shot skateboarding before and it can be tough.
Nice job on the timing! Tom |
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#11 |
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Member
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the biggest mistake that got me was the harsh shadows on the wall... you never want shadows.... never.. but goods shots and good idea to get low on the ground
__________________
Rodrigo Gaya rodrigo.gaya@gmail.com The Michigan Daily - Associate Photo Editor www.michigandaily.com Portfolio:www.rodrigogaya.com SportsShooter_Link:www.sportsshooter.com/members.html?id=6419 |
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#12 |
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Member
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hey brivet- what body are you shooting with? cause at a high iso you'd need crazy flash sync in most day shots, and i thought the highest canon goes is 1/500. since i only sync at 180/250 i have to stay at 100 so i don't blow things out. how do you do it? nice shot, by the way.
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Posts: 396
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Shooting with a 1DMkIIn, but could be a 10D or 20D to get same pictures no problem...
They will sync at 1/2000 with the high speed sync option.... selected on the speedlites...
__________________
Barry Rivett http://www.studioflash.co.uk http://www.hotshots.me.uk Canon digital bodies, lenses, flashes. Bowens Esprits and Monolites Elinchrom Style and Classics Interfit and Portaflash |
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#14 |
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Member
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1D Mk2 will sync at it's top shutter speed of 1/8000th in high speed flash mode.
It's range is drastically cut though |
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#15 |
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Member
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and just remember....the High speed is not for stop action...just for fill...you have to get stop action with shutter speeds....high speed sync is not like a normal flash...it's a curtain-following burst of very very high speed pulses...hence the cut range
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Cory Johnson: sportsshooter page Summer Photo Editor, The Crimson White-- University of Alabama Student Newspaper cw.ua.edu -------------------------- Student Sports Photographer, University of Alabama Athletics rolltide.com |
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