This was given to me by a Professional Make-Up Artist to post on my (former) site. It works equally well for film or digital. I ususally forward this to any model prior to working with her. I also tell her not to wear ANY makeup on her way to a shoot (younger models tend to use glitter eye makeup and I hate to tell them to redo it once they show up):
Makeup for Black and White Film
Dark tones appear to recede:
Used darker colors to accent bone structure, where natural shadows occur, such as the hollows of cheeks, temples, eye sockets. Do not use color on apples or planes of cheeks. Use only under the cheekbone, and blend well. Do not use color on eyelids or brow bones. Use only in crease of eyes, and around lash line. Blend well.
Light tones appear to come forward:
Use highlight to accent where the light hits, like tops of cheeks, bridge of nose, brow bone (under row arch), center of forehead. Use a light toned concealer under eyes only on inside corners, and blend well. Using under entire under eye makes the face appear wider at the eye area, and lowers the cheekbones.
Beware of harsh lines:
Blending is especially important in black and white. Remember that you will see only tonal values, not colors. Liquid and pencil liners are too harsh. Use dark shadows instead. Do not use lip liners unless your lips are very unbalanced.
Beware of textures:
Textures are more visible in black and white, since there is no color to distract the eye. Iridescent powders must be blended carefully, and used sparingly. The same applies for glosses and wet-look makeup. Keep lips matte, or highlight only the bow and center of lips.
Use colors that are easy to judge how light or dark they will appear in black and white. Charcoals and browns are good choices for eyes, true reds for lips. Apply little to no tint to brows, as they will appear heavier, and draw the eye area down.
Match foundation to upper chest area, so face is not visibly lighter than rest of skin. Blend from face to neck, wetting sponge with water as you blend from jaw line to chest.
Principles of Makeup for Color Film
Studio lights and strobes:
Studio lighting flattens features, so contouring is very important. Accent bone structure, and blend into color. Flashes and strobes cause powdered skin to reflect light. Un-powdered skin absorbs light, which can cause powdered areas to look several shades lighter than bare skin. Powder neck, collarbone, and chest to achieve consistent skin tone. Strong lighting washes golden tones from skin. Use warmer colors on cheeks and lips and for contouring. Mauves tend to look muddy, so use truer pinks and wines.
To achieve uniform skin tone, use the color wheel to balance tones you want to appear neutral. The opposite shade on the color wheel cancels the shade you wish to eliminate.
1: Green: cancels red tones from broken capillaries, pimples, bites
2: Yellow: cancels purple tones from under eye circles, bruises
3: Orange: cancels blue tones in under eye circles, bruises
Use makeup appropriate for the content you are shooting. Keep in mind what the focus will be, and how far you will be from the camera. Contour a little more heavily for full-length shots than for headshots. This is only a guide, but may help to get a greater variety of looks into your book. Feel free to experiment!
1: Fashion: deep cheek contour, basic lips and eyes.
2: Glamour, Swimwear, Lingerie: light cheek contour, accent lips (deep color) or eyes (smokey)
3: Beauty, Hairstyle, Swimwear: medium cheek contour, trendy eyes, medium lips.
4: Fine art: Neutral colors, accent on bone structure.
5: Lifestyle, Fitness: High color cheeks, neutral eyes, bright lips
Model Makeup Bag Basics
Liquid or crème; matching chest
Creme or stick; 2 shades darker than chest
Highlighting (Revlon skinlights are good)
Pressed, matching chest
Large, soft powder brush
Wedge shaped sponges (for blending)
Circle or teardrop sponges (for foundation and powder)
Large eye shadow brush
Flat and pointy eye shadow sponge applicators
Small, slightly stiff blush brush
Basic brown liner (no golden tone)
Brownish flesh tone lip liner
Ecru (slightly yellow toned) powder
Golden brown powder
Basic brown powder
1 set of fashion colors (no mauves!)
Golden brown (for contouring)
ABSOLUTELY NO MAUVES!
Basic true red
Brown (not beige) neutral
Wine or raisin
Neutral (not bubble gum!) pink gloss
Water mist bottle
Anti-redness eye drops
Large powder puff
As many lipsticks as you can carry!
With these colors and tools, you can create many different looks by playing with combinations and color placement and shapes for variety.