New here - help with

I found a short thread on this, but I need major help!

I'm a decent photographer, love my G-2, and I want to be able to play more with light and shadows. I also would like to be able to do more portrait and people photography.

So - I really want to venture off into the world of off-camera, studio style photography with my G-2.

Could someone be kind and patient enough to reply with a couple of things: one, a tutorial for dummies on how to do this with a G-2; and secondly, a specific list of the type of equipment needed (e.g., this hotshoe converter, this cord, this slave, these types of lights, etc.) I know the latter is a very broad request, but if I had some specific lists of equipment, it would be very helpful in understanding how all of this goes together. And I do understand that costs for a two light set-up (what I'm looking for now) can vary tremendously, but again, if I have some specific lists I can figure out what i can substitute.

Thanks!

Jeff Lackey

Hi Jeff

I'm sort of hoping that someone can help with the tutorial stuff as well!

I've been playing with the G2 letting the camera flash trigger my Vivitar 285 flash using a slave with cord to the flash. I mounted the flash on a tripod and use the bounce card for the flash I got years ago. Mostly I'm doing close-up/still life type of phots and I get good results but not great results. I'm not yet really re-working the images through software yet either, so - lots to learn!!

I have been recording my images in RAW format setting the camera f/stop and the 285 to match. I still need to experiment some more!

Good luck

Clare

Hi Clare
I am using my G2 for studio portraits and am setting it up normally on my Tripod,setting it on manual and just using the inbuilt flash to trigger my monolights which both have slave cells on them.
I currently use 1 x monolight (strobe) as a main and a large,thick piece of polystyrene that builders use to line walls for insulation,as a reflector (or fill).
I started out covering the flas with a small,thick piece of paper attached with masking tape in order to diffuse the flash and I set the flash on red eye.I star out with say 160th second and F8 and see what the exposure looks like and then I adjust shutter speed or aperture till I get the right exposure,easy!
If you want more details just email me.You can see some of the results at this site.

http://www.photosig.co​m/myportfolios.php?id=​6696
The Danae photos were with 35mm camera.The rest G2

Regards
keith

I haven't tried this yet, but to soften the flash a bit, would putting a PDA screen protector over the flash diffuse it enough? They are probably too clear and the flash would still overpower the scene.

I'm a bit puzzled - I've read several places that the problem with using the flash on the G-2 to trigger the slaves on studio flashes is that the G-2 flashes twice - once to set exposure followed by the main flash.

Ah - I just noticed that you are using manual - is that how you get around this problem? I'd really like to find a good solution that allows me to use exposure modes in addition to pure manual.

Cheers - Jeff

For a list of studio lighting equipment needed go to photo.net and do a search on the forums and also Zuga.net do search on their forums..portraits,glam​our etc.
I have a New Bowens monolight 500ws and an old broncolor 250ws monolight,that is more than enough to get you going .IF you are in the UK or USA you are lucky and can get studio sets..lights, stands, umbrellas and even backgounds in kit form really cheap.Check them out!
I have struck no problems with pre flash,I think you are right using manual mode negates the pre flash.
If you use a Wein safe sync cord you will still have to use it on manual.The beauty of the g2 digital is that you get instant feedback and so you can try what you like.
If you want to do studio work you will not need other exposure modes..did you say you knew something about photography..can't remember.
Manual gives you the ability to set any aperture,any shutter speed ,as long as you have a decent tripod.
What specific exposure modes are thinking of.
For portraits 125th second f8 will cover most situations.
Regards
Keith