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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 200
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I haven't done Motox or any other moving shots before(mostly landscape, structures and animals) was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or knowledge that they wouldn't mind passing along to this novice.
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"If I could tell the story in words, I wouldn't need to lug a camera around" Lewis Hine Jim Elan 7n, G2, 10d and 30d Canon 28-135mm IS, 50mm 1.8 Tamron 28-75mm, 18-270mm Sigma 80-400mm, 70-200mm f/2.8, 150mm Macro, Sigma 12-24mm aka Popeye |
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#2 |
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Member
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Never done Motor-cross (that's what you mean right?) myself, but done some fast cars. You probably need high shutter-speeds, as these things can go quite fast. Panning your shots to show the speed is also a cool effect.
These are some I took last weekend of a dragrace: http://www.127001.org/albums/0001/images.html Theese where shot with 1/250 - 1/500 handheld, ISO-400. Guess Motor-cross is a lot "slower" than dragracing, but you will probably need above 1/100 anyway. So if it is an indoor-arena with poor lightning, you need fast lenses, and high ISO's. If outside in sunlight, the requirements of the lens become less. I got a tip of using a polarizer on my drag-event to help bring out more contrasty pictures, and I seriously recommend that! The difference was great! Also.. Use AI-servo to track the bikes, and high aperture if possible, as it's depth-of-field will compensate for slightly out of focus shots. Lot of jumps in motor-cross, so try getting low to increase the height-effect of the jumps. I just dug up GenEOS's Supercross-shots, take a look, they're great, and probably give far better hints than what I'm trying to tell. http://www.tunstall.cc/galleries/04amasx1/index.htm http://www.tunstall.cc/galleries/04amasx125/index.htm http://www.tunstall.cc/galleries/04amasx250/index.htm |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 200
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vvizard, thanks for the info and yes i did mean moto cross.
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"If I could tell the story in words, I wouldn't need to lug a camera around" Lewis Hine Jim Elan 7n, G2, 10d and 30d Canon 28-135mm IS, 50mm 1.8 Tamron 28-75mm, 18-270mm Sigma 80-400mm, 70-200mm f/2.8, 150mm Macro, Sigma 12-24mm aka Popeye |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Gillies, Ontario, Can
Posts: 638
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Hello Jim
A couple of tips for you... - Try to find a good vantage point ahead of time. This may require just watching the practice/warm-up laps to see where the best action is, for the shots you want... - keep the sun at your back if possible (if outside) - shoot at ISO 400 - I use TV mode shutter@ 1/200 or 1/250 for panning shots, 1/500 and up for stop action. A little speed blur is usually prefered. - While panning always follow through after you trip the shutter. http://users.air.on.ca/cbjaps/jtphotographic/sports.htm http://users.air.on.ca/cbjaps/jtphotographic/proofs.htm
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Jeff CANON * EOS 1D MKIV * EOS 1D MKII * * 100-400L IS, 300 f4L IS, 70-200 f2.8L IS, 24-70 f2.8L, 50 1.8 and alot of other gear. JT Photographics |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 200
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Thanks jeff and also thanks to Jim @ RFMSPORTS for the PM. Ill put all your info to good use tomorrow.
"follow thru on pan" is easy to remember because of my golf instructor always follow thru on your swing
__________________
"If I could tell the story in words, I wouldn't need to lug a camera around" Lewis Hine Jim Elan 7n, G2, 10d and 30d Canon 28-135mm IS, 50mm 1.8 Tamron 28-75mm, 18-270mm Sigma 80-400mm, 70-200mm f/2.8, 150mm Macro, Sigma 12-24mm aka Popeye |
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