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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk
Thread started 28 Jun 2007 (Thursday) 10:41
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STICKY: It's Fireworks Time (Tips & Techniques)

 
Woolburr
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Jun 28, 2007 10:41 |  #1

Once again, fireworks season is upon us. Everyone loves to watch a great fireworks display and many photographers would love to capture some memories of the event. Lots of folks are reluctant to even try shooting fireworks displays, because they have no idea where to begin....others hesitate to shoot because they are afraid to take their camera out of automatic mode....with any luck, the tips and techniques outlined here will help both novice and experienced shooters take their explosive shots to a whole new level.


The first step in shooting any fireworks display is a bit of preparation. Find out when and where the event is going to take place. Showing up at 10 pm for a display that took place at 9:30 is just as bad as showing up at the fairgrounds to shoot the show, only to discover event organizers decided the riverfront on the other side of town would make a better venue. Taking shots of an empty sky just doesn't hold much appeal. Some of us will be fortunate enough to live close to shoot more than one show...taking notes will help you keep the various displays in order and help you make sure you show up with the right stuff at the right place at the right time!


With camera in hand, scout your location before the show. If you are serious about shooting fireworks, you can make the time to look over the area where the show will take place. Make yourself aware of potential problems before they become an issue. Are there trees, power lines, buildings or even other people attending the event that are going to interfere with your line of sight and therefore, your ability to capture a clean image of the fireworks? Are there powerful external light sources that are going to foul your exposures and wash out the images? Setting up under a street light might make the job of assembling your equipment simpler, but it is not going to be a good thing when it comes to the finished image. Get away from bright lights, utility poles and wires. Trees and buildings can add interest to your finished image, but make sure they will not block the shots. Since most of us won't be shooting with the Statue of Liberty or other famous landmarks as a
potential focal points, look for locations where buildings will not dominate the image. Also keep in mind you will be carrying a bit of equipment with you, so
finding parking in relation to the shooting locale can also be a major consideration...not to mention the time it will take to actually walk to your chosen vantage point. Plan accordingly and leave yourself ample time to get set up.

Once you decide where you are going to shoot from, it is time to move to the next phase of preparation. Remember, a smart person would take their camera on the pre-show scouting expedition. This will allow you to look through the viewfinder and draw some conclusions about which lens you want to use. Are you going to be close in where a wide-angle lens is the best option? Is a medium telephoto a better choice or are you going to be far enough away the you can take advantage of a long telephoto? For those of you without an extensive selection of lenses, don't panic. You might just have to adjust your shooting location a little bit to properly complement your lens options. Let me add this important little caveat to lens selection, choosing a zoom lens instead of a prime is typically the best choice. (Why? It is very difficult, if not impossible to "foot" zoom in a crowd.) Once again, preparation is key. With this phase of the process complete, it is time to head home and prepare our gear for the show.


At home, it is time to start pulling the pieces together. Grab your small LCD flashlight and make sure it works. Make sure all your batteries are charged. Make sure your memory cards are clean, formatted and ready to go. Put fresh cards in your camera(s) before you pack them for the trip. Gather up your tripod(s) and make sure you have the necessary base plates ready if you are equipped with quick releases. Decide which lens(es) you are going to use and mount them to their respective body(bodies). If the lens has a filter on it, take it off. Filters are not your friend when shooting fireworks. Give the lens a good cleaning while you are at it, run the sensor clean function on the camera and give it a quick blow out with your rocket blower. Locate your remote cable release(s). If you have remotes that use batteries, make sure the batteries are not dead. If you are going to experiment with super long exposures/multiple exposures on one image, make sure you have your designated lens cover is ready to go. (Some use an opaque hat, I prefer a piece of heavy black fabric that I can drape over the lens) Set your camera controls for the mode you are going to be using. Most of us are going to use one of three modes....Aperture Value(Av), Manual, or Bulb. For most shooters, Manual will be the best choice...Bulb is best used by advanced shooters looking to experiment with varying exposures/multiple exposures and Av works best for shooting really close in. Set your ISO to 100. Set your Aperture to at least f/8, most of us use f/11 or f/16...some will set it to the smallest aperture available. Set your shutter time to 5 seconds initially. Make sure your lens is set to Manual Focus mode. You can pre-focus if you want...set the focus to the little sideways L shaped mark just before the infinity symbol.(the one that looks like an 8 turned sideways.) The last two items on my list are optional, but a must for me. My wife typically accompanies me, so we toss in a couple of lawn chairs and a small cooler for soda, water or iced tea.


The time has come to load the car and head for the show. Make sure you have everything we have discussed up to this point loaded and ready to go. Give yourself more than ample time to arrive at your destination. Bear in mind that this is typically a holiday and traffic is going to be heavy. If you have done your homework properly, you should be able to locate a decent parking spot and get your equipment to the shoot locale with a minimum of hassle. I have been shooting shows long enough that I know many locations that I can park and shoot from the same spot. That makes life much easier! Set up your tripod(s), attach the camera(s) and remote shutter release(s). Aim your camera in the general direction of the launch point. Make sure your lens is in manual focus mode and if you have enough light available, try to focus on a subject in the launch area...(setting lens to infinity doesn't always work folks...depending on where you are shooting from, your focus may need to be on an area much closer to the camera) Even if you have previously watched or shot fireworks from this location, you will probably have to wait
for the initial shot to get the exact location you need to aim your camera at.


Your first shoot is probably going to end up being a grand experiment. Shoot in the best mode for the distance...I use 3 shooting modes depending on my proximity to the fireworks. Here are the parameters I start with and a range of distances. Don't feel that you are locked in to these values...these are just starting points. Fireworks allow you to experiment. Trying a variety of settings can help you catch that "special" shot. Don't forget, most shows last 15-20 minutes so you have some time to hone your settings to the optimum values.


Close-in: Less than 200 yards from the launch point. I shoot with the camera in Av Mode. ISO 100 @f/8...this will give you a full frame of burst, which produces ample light for the camera to meter and calculate an exposure. If you want to go manual...try shutter speeds in the 1/15 to 1/4 second range to start. I typically use zoom lenses at this range. I have access to a 16-35mm, 17-40mm, 24-70mm, a 24-105mm and 28-135mm lens, experience has shown me that at this range, you are typically shooting at focal lengths shorter than 28mm....so any lens you have that covers from 10-28mm should work just fine.


Mid-range: From 200 yards to about 1/2 mile, try ISO 100 @f/8 and 1-2 seconds in manual mode as a starting point, adjust as necessary. Here we find ourselves using lenses such as the 24-70mm, 24-105mm, 28-135mm and even the 70-200mm. Depending on the framing of the shot you desire, you can adjust your zoom accordingly. I have shot at every focal length from 24-200mm at this range with excellent results. Play with your settings until you are happy!


Long-range: Shots taken from over 1/2 mile away, try ISO 100 @f/11 and 10-15 second exposures in bulb mode. This is also the mode where I just lock the shutter open and use my black cloth drape to limit the exposure/allow multiple bursts to appear in the same image. Again, I have used lenses in focal lengths ranging from 24mm to 400mm depending on the desired framing.


For examples and EXIF data see this gallery: http://Frogdawg.zenfol​io.com/p710157444external link


Keep in mind, that these are just tips and guidelines. How you actually decide to shoot is entirely up to you. Experiment and have fun. There is no right or wrong way to shoot fireworks, unless you are turning out blank images....(dang it, I told you to take the lens cap off!) Processing the images after the show gives you a whole new way to interpret the shots....again...there is no right and wrong....do what makes the shot look the best to you. (Fractalius is a fun little program to play with on fireworks shots.) One last bit of advice, don't tie yourself in a knot trying to get the "perfect" shot....there isn't a tremendous market for fireworks photographs...if you are thinking you are going to get rich selling your images....you are in for big surprise. Media outlets grab up a few stellar shots each year, but that is about the extent of the market. Shoot for yourself first! And shoot because you enjoy the challenge!

Quick Tips


1. Scout your location.

2. Assemble your gear. Charge batteries, clear cards, remove filters..

3. Pack car....make sure you have everything, Including spares.

4. Travel to shoot...leave ample time....arrive early.

5. Get set up. Mount lens camera, put camera and lens on tripod. Connect remote or cable release.

6. Place camera in desired shooting mode...Av, M, or B are your primary options....you can experiment with Tv if you are bold.

7. Select your desired aperture....start at f/8 and experiment. (I more commonly use f/11 - f/16)

8. ISO 100 for starters.

9. Pre-focus your camera on a feature near the launch site for the fireworks. Make sure your camera is set to manual focus. (AF will work, but it tends to be very hit and miss.)

10. Once the display begins, use the first couple of shots to review your focus and exposure.

11. If you are satisfied with your focus, you can now experiment with your exposure....try various time intervals from 1 to 15 seconds. Review the shots until you start seeing results you are content with.

12. You can now work on fine tuning image quality:

* If your initial settings give you an image that is too dark (under-exposed), you can increase the ISO setting, increase the length of time your shutter is open or enlarge the aperture on the lens. (Adjust one variable at a time, review your image. Continue adjustments as necessary.)

* You can increase the ISO if the fireworks appear to be too dim. (Go easy, you want to keep the noise levels down.

* If you are including background features and they appear to dim, you can once again increase the ISO. (See previous post)

* If your background appears too bright, you can stop down the aperture 1 stop or reduce the length of time the shutter is open.

* If everything appears to be over-exposed, close down the aperture 1 stop at a time or decrease the length of time the shutter is open or if you have previously upped the ISO setting, you may decrease that.

13. Once you are satisfied with your settings, simply repeat the process with each new launch. Enjoy the show and remember to have fun!


Good luck and happy shooting!


Don't forget to post your best here: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=344159


More TIPS!


People that know me call me Dan
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Jim7226
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Jun 28, 2007 10:45 |  #2

Thanks for the tips, Dan! These should prove to be helpful next week. :)


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Woolburr
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The Tupperware capitol of eastern Oregon...Leicester, NC!
Jun 28, 2007 10:58 |  #3

People also ask about what lens to use...it also is location dependent. I have used everything from 17-40mm to a 100-400mm and all points in between. Generally you are stopped down to f/8 or further so you are in the sweet spot for almost all lenses, including the kit lenses or even a nifty fifty.

Don't hesitate to experiment with your settings. Shooting fireworks should be a fun exercise and contrary to popular opinion, there is no right or wrong way to shoot them.

More handy tips:

http://www.usa.canon.c​om ...=1&WT.mc_id=EM1006E​O03004external link

http://photography-on-the.net ...hp?p=3461245&postco​unt=10

http://photography-on-the.net ...hp?p=3477128&postco​unt=15

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=189490


People that know me call me Dan
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Jim7226
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Jun 28, 2007 11:06 |  #4

Given the spot I usually sit, I thought the 17-40 would work dandy. Shooting some fireworks seems to me to be a good way to end a holiday celebration.:D


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HarleyQuinn
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Jun 28, 2007 11:07 |  #5

:::swoon::: thanks WoolieBullie, you're my fireworks hero!


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Woolburr
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Jun 28, 2007 11:08 |  #6

IMAGE: http://Frogdawg.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v14/p700384061-4.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://Frogdawg.zenfol​io.com/p710157444/e29b​f033d] (external link)
Canon EOS D30 ,Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
f/3.5 @ 28 mm, 0.7s, ISO 400

IMAGE: http://Frogdawg.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v17/p189970336-4.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://Frogdawg.zenfol​io.com/p710157444/eb52​b7a0] (external link)
Canon EOS 1Ds ,Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
f/11 @ 153 mm, 2.5s, ISO 100

And a couple of shots with Fractalius processing.
IMAGE NOT FOUND IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
http://Frogdawg.zenfol​io.com/img/s9/v13/p369​454900-4.jpg (external link)
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO


IMAGE: http://Frogdawg.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v13/p186332619-4.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: http://Frogdawg.zenfol​io.com/p804772886/eb1b​35cb] (external link)

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Tdragone
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Jun 28, 2007 14:58 |  #7

For first time shooters; search sites like Pbase for fireworks and note the info in the Exif..


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Woolburr
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Jun 28, 2007 21:26 |  #8

LucyRoberts wrote in post #3453742external link
:::swoon::: thanks WoolieBullie, you're my fireworks hero!

Only if you come back with some good shots to share!


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HarleyQuinn
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Jun 28, 2007 21:31 |  #9

Woolburr wrote in post #3457164external link
Only if you come back with some good shots to share!

I will do my best to please!


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Woolburr
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Jun 29, 2007 15:32 |  #10

More hints from Adorama:
Where to Stand

Before the fireworks start, find out where the fireworks will be taking place, and scout around the area. Here are the best kinds of locations:

Good: An unobstructed view of the sky, upwind of the action. Make sure there are no buildings or trees in the way. Look for an elevated position so you don't have the heads of the people in front of you in the shot. Why upwind? You don't want the smoke blowing towards you because it can block the view--and do you really want to smell that?

Better: An unobstructed view with water. A body of water can result in interesting reflections of the fireworks.

Best: An unobstructed view with a landmark. Fireworks blazing against the profile of a well-known (and hopefully well lit) building or natural landmark can add a point of interest (and possibly salability) to your image.
Exposure tips

Aperture: Most photographers use ISO 100 and an aperture of between f/8 and f/16. The smaller aperture intensifies the colors of the fireworks and prevents overexposure. Experiment and see how the different aperture setting changes the look of your image.

Shutter speed: Use your camera's "B" (bulb) setting. Start your exposure at the moment the burst begins, and end it when the burst reaches its peak. How long is long enough? For a single blast, a second or two should be sufficient.

Some photographers leave their camera on B and block the lens until there's a burst, and repeating the process over several bursts. This results in a multiple exposure that can fill the frame with fireworks.

Color balance: Daylight is fine, but if you have lit buildings you should set color balance based on how they are lit.

What about auto-everything cameras?

If your camera lacks manual settings, you can still get reasonably good fireworks shots. Set it to Landscape mode so it focuses on infinity. Disable the flash. Start the exposure before a blast if possible and the lens will remain open longer.

To reduce lag time (a delay between when you press the shutter release and the camera takes the picture), keep your finger on the shutter release, pressing it halfway down.

Reducing noise

If your camera has a noise reduction feature, by all means use it. The long exposures are bound to overheat the image sensor, which results in digital artifacts ("noise") that look a bit like grain in your photograph. The black sky will look muddy or worse. There is also software and there are techniques for reducing grain in Photoshop--but that's another story.


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KarlMarsh
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Jul 02, 2007 12:45 as a reply to Woolburr's post |  #11

These were shot hand-held with a G7 at F8 for 2 seconds 80 ISO. There is a little noticeable movement but I think makes them look even better. I have shot hundreds of fire works shows this way and never even tried it with a tri-pod. C&C welcome.:D

IMAGE: http://rideld.smugmug.com/photos/168731347-M.jpg

IMAGE: http://rideld.smugmug.com/photos/168731417-M.jpg

IMAGE: http://rideld.smugmug.com/photos/168731519-M.jpg

IMAGE: http://rideld.smugmug.com/photos/168731622-M.jpg

IMAGE: http://rideld.smugmug.com/photos/168734541-M.jpg

IMAGE: http://rideld.smugmug.com/photos/168734819-M.jpg

IMAGE: http://rideld.smugmug.com/photos/168734900-M.jpg

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Woolburr
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Jul 02, 2007 15:57 |  #12

Getting up close and personal with fireworks can make for some interesting handheld shots.

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steve535
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Jul 02, 2007 16:15 as a reply to Woolburr's post |  #13

a couple of my firework shots.17-40mm set on bulb exp.

IMAGE: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1133/698788534_759b42b3bc_b.jpg

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steve535
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Jul 02, 2007 16:17 as a reply to steve535's post |  #14

#2

IMAGE: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1382/698788660_c12f696208_b.jpg

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Curtis ­ N
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Jul 02, 2007 20:59 |  #15

Well I'll just add my own experiences and suggestions. Some of this may be redundant.
I can only share what has worked for me, and show you the results.

1) I was very close to the action. I used the short end of my 28-75 on my 20D and wished I could go wider. Composition is the hardest part since you can’t predict exactly where each shell will be, or how big. Give yourself plenty of cropping room.

2) Bring a small flashlight (torch) to help with making camera adjustments in the dark.

3) Use your largest CF card, and bring spares. I took 156 shots in 21 minutes.

4) Show up early to get a good seat. Try to stay upwind if possible, so the smoke blows away from you.

5) Prefocus on a distant building or tree top, then switch the lens to manual focus and leave it alone. With most lenses if you change the zoom you’ll throw it out of focus and you’ll need to repeat the process, so avoid zooming if you can.

6) Bring a lawn chair. Setup the tripod directly over your chair so you can look up at the camera comfortably.

7) Set the shutter speed to BULB mode so you can hold the shutter open at will with the cable.

8 ) I used f/8 and ISO 100. Interestingly, my wife used f/32 and her shots don’t look a whole lot different.

9) I had the camera in vertical orientation. The altitude of each shot will vary more than the horizontal location, so this makes composition easier.

10) Set up your tripod so the vertical angle is locked but the swivel adjustment is loose. This will allow you to aim each shot easily.

11) Check composition with the LCD review and adjust the vertical angle as needed (this is easier than looking through the viewfinder).

12) One more thing I just thought of - If you normally use a UV filter, take it off. Small, intense light sources have been known to cause ghosting with UV filters (especially cheap ones).

My strategy from that point was to try to follow each ascending bomb by swiveling the camera, then open the shutter just before the shell exploded. Sometimes I was a little late, which creates a different look but not necessarily worse.

Hold the shutter open as long as you want. Most of my shots were from 2 to 6 seconds. The most interesting shots will have 2 or 3 shells exploding in a single image. Keeping it open too long usually just makes a mess, but by all means, experiment with different exposure durations.

800 pixels really doesn't do justice to all the detail in these, so I'm including some 100% crops.

1) 7 seconds

IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_0551.jpg

IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_0551c.jpg

2) 4 seconds
IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_0578.jpg

IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_0578c.jpg

3) 2 seconds
IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_588.jpg

IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_0587c.jpg

4) 3 seconds
IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_0623.jpg

IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/IMG_0623c.jpg

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It's Fireworks Time (Tips & Techniques)
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