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No Canon UWA for 1.3?? Solution: let's hack the 10-22!!!

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Thread started 12 Aug 2007 (Sunday) 16:14   
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picturecrazy
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Since getting a 1D3 there's one thing I've really been missing... and that is ULTRA WIDE angle. That is one of my most favourite ways to shoot. Canon doesn't make one for 1.3. There's the 16-35... but that's not really ULTRA wide on 1.3.

The 10-22 is one of my most favourite lenses. So, being a total nerd that loves to disassemble things, I thought I'd give it a shot and get it mounted onto the 1D3. Warranty is long passed. Why not?

I decided I'd also rip apart my beloved 75-300 III USM. I didn't want to go for the baffle-less look and the rear element looked close in size to the 10-22 so again, I said, "why not?" Let's potentially wreck two of my favourite lenses!!

So this is ripping out the 75-300 baffle. I managed to destroy one of the tabs that hold it in, but there are 4 so I don' think it matters much. I made a mental note to be more careful on the 10-22:

IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/a.jpg

Now (cafefully) taking out the 10-22 baffle:
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/b.jpg

So at first, I thought it would be a slam dunk. But it wasn't. The 75-300 baffle isn't perfect. It interferes with the electonics so it won't snap in place. I found the interference to be right under the "IN MALA" letters, which is stamped on the top. (The full text is "MADE IN MALAYSIA")

I thought it was close, just needed about 0.7mm more clearance, so I took a file to the baffle and now it looks like this:
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/c.jpg

And voila! The baffle now snaps in with no interference! And you cannot tell any filing has been done from the other side! Here is it on the 10-22. I put the EF-S baffle on the 75-300 temporarily while I get another one from Canon. (BTW, the 75-300 doesn't work well with it. You can only zoom from 90-300)
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/d.jpg

Overhead view with 75-300 baffle on:
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/g.jpg

This is at 10mm
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/h.jpg

This is at 22mm, so you can see it's not a perfect baffle to use but it will surely protect it a heck of a lot more than no baffle.
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/i.jpg

And here you can see it's now flush with the EF mount. The problem now is the rear element sticks out past the mount. This is at 10mm. I have found it does not protrude when you get to 12mm.
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/j.jpg

Post #1, Aug 12, 2007 16:14:58


-Lloyd
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picturecrazy
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Here it is mounted on the 1D3:

IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/e.jpg

Another view, it's definitely mounted on there!
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/f.jpg

It doesn't seem to have any problems talking to the 1D either even though they were never designed to work together. Nevertheless, I found it unsurprising. I knew they would work.

Ok, here is a 10mm using a 20D as a baseline comparison:
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/20d10.jpg

And here is a 13mm shot using the 1D:
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/1d13.jpg

I used 13mm because that is where I find there is no vignetting present. There is definite vignetting at 10mm but only in the corners; no black tunnel look. It is gone by 13mm so I have no reason to use it wider than that. Besides, there is a danger of smacking the mirror at a wider setting, which I'm not interested in doing!!!

And here it is zoomed to 16mm, to give you a comparison of the view you could expect from using the 16-35, which is the widest canon zoom you can get for the 1.3 format.
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/1d16.jpg

And here is a 24mm shot taken with my 24-70L. This is the widest I've been able to shoot to date with the 1D3. I don't find it nearly wide enough!!
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/1d24.jpg

Corner sharpness isn't stellar, but on UWA, it usually isn't amazing anyhow. It's not perfect at 10mm on my 20D either.
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/1d13c.jpg

Edges seem good though. This is the bottom centre edge.
IMAGE: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/POTN/1022hack/1d13e.jpg


So in conclusion, I am pretty happy with this hack and am looking forward to using it on a real shoot soon. True, there are non-Canon alternatives, but the 10-22 is one of my absolute favourites and I'm not getting rid of it. I've tried the Sigma and Tokina alternatives and wasn't happy. This 1D/10-22 combo DOES make me happy!

If someone finds a better baffle to use, please let me know!!!

Post #2, Aug 12, 2007 16:15:19


-Lloyd
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Bubble
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interesting mod.

Post #3, Aug 12, 2007 16:20:08


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justisnmnz
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Haha, I have absolutely no use for this mod, but I kinda want to do it anyways. :D

Post #4, Aug 12, 2007 16:22:56


20d | 50 f/1.8 | 70-200 f/4L | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 EX
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JeffreyG
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I wonder if there is some way to pin the zoom so it won't turn below 13mm. Keeping out of the widest range might otherwise prove difficult when you are working. With that change you would seem to have the perfect APS-H UWA hack.

Post #5, Aug 12, 2007 16:26:51


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PetKal
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Good work.
Is the 17-55 f/2.8 IS next to go under the knife ?

Post #6, Aug 12, 2007 16:36:08 as a reply to JeffreyG's post 9 minutes earlier.


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picturecrazy
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JeffreyG wrote in post #3714896external link
I wonder if there is some way to pin the zoom so it won't turn below 13mm. Keeping out of the widest range might otherwise prove difficult when you are working. With that change you would seem to have the perfect APS-H UWA hack.

Yeah, I've been thinking about that, but I don't think there is an easy way to do it. Not that I would want to either, as I still want to use this on my 20 and 30D bodies.

PetKal wrote in post #3714951external link
Good work.
Is the 17-55 f/2.8 IS next to go under the knife ?

I think I'm gonna hack my 60mm macro too like Lightstream did. I just want to find a good baffle to replace it with first. Not sure about the 17-55 yet though

Post #7, Aug 12, 2007 16:40:10


-Lloyd
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MDJAK
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Lloyd, I've got to hand it to you and anybody else who has talent and fortitude to try things like this. I truly give you a lot of credit.

On a less serious note, would you mind turning my 300 into a 1200. Please. ;)

me

Post #8, Aug 12, 2007 18:03:23




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Lord_Malone
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My solution for ultra-wide on a 1.3x crop requires no lens butchering. ;)

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=266745

Post #9, Aug 12, 2007 18:08:17


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Bubble
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so how much the 70-300 baffle cost directly from Canon?

Post #10, Aug 12, 2007 18:14:10


Canon 5D II, 7D | 16-35L II | 24-70L | 24-105L | 50L | 85L II |  iMac 27 | Redrock Micro DSLR Cinema Bundle | Elinchrom Ranger RX-AS Kit| Elinchrom Digital Style 1200RX/600RX | Turbo SC |

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Familiaphoto
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You are one brave man...I would not have the guts, not to mention skill, to do something like that.

Post #11, Aug 12, 2007 18:38:25


Paul
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blonde
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hmmm, is there a reason why you didn't just go with the Sigma 12-24 and got it over with?

Post #12, Aug 12, 2007 19:41:52




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_aravena
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^Money?

Heck, you should charge for this. Watch out 16-35, the 17-55 IS can have an EF mount! Possibly. Speaking of, why hold back on that but go ahead with the 10-22? Really needed a UWA that bad?

Post #13, Aug 12, 2007 19:54:24


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cdifoto
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blonde wrote in post #3715899external link
hmmm, is there a reason why you didn't just go with the Sigma 12-24 and got it over with?

_aravena wrote in post #3715976external link
^Money?

Heck, you should charge for this. Watch out 16-35, the 17-55 IS can have an EF mount! Possibly. Speaking of, why hold back on that but go ahead with the 10-22? Really needed a UWA that bad?

Well considering the Canon EF-S rear element can smack the mirror from 10-12mm, it seems kinda pointless. If you can afford a 1D Mark III, you can afford to sell the 10-22 and go with the Sigma 12-24.

I'm pretty happy knowing I don't have to watch out for certain focal lengths. When not tinkering and actually shooting, I don't have that kind of restraint.

Post #14, Aug 12, 2007 20:00:26


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AngryCorgi
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Any chance we can convince you to try this with ye ol' 17-55IS?? ;)

Post #15, Aug 12, 2007 20:19:16 as a reply to cdifoto's post 18 minutes earlier.


AngryCorgiexternal link (aka Tom) ...Tools...

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No Canon UWA for 1.3?? Solution: let's hack the 10-22!!!
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