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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Motorsports
Thread started 14 Aug 2007 (Tuesday) 23:05
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question about motorsport photography

 
williamsf1
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Aug 14, 2008 12:09 |  #46

question for you guys...

I'm still learning my 40D (some great tips on this site!!!!) however can someone answer this??

on the rotary dial when you set the sports setting, you get the H for highspeed multi frame rate 6.5 a second....

how do you get that using say Tv ?

I want to take pics at high speed, so I am guessing I need say ISO 100 1/125 and Tv

ideas?

Im using a 17-85 and 100-400 white lens...

cheers!




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John ­ Thawley
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Aug 14, 2008 12:13 |  #47

williamsf1 wrote in post #6106910external link
question for you guys...


on the rotary dial when you set the sports setting, you get the H for highspeed multi frame rate 6.5 a second....

how do you get that using say Tv ?


cheers!

Push the button on top marked AF • Drive then spin the big thumb wheel on the back of the camera. This will provide you with single shot, timed shot, slow speed burst and high speed burst choices.


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JVBAKER0
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Aug 14, 2008 12:30 |  #48

I've got myself tied in knots regarding the best "philosophy" when shooting fast moving objects. I've been trying to take some pictures of motorcycles in action and I just can't seem to get a really sharp image. I"m shooting an XTi with a 70-200 f4 IS. Is it fundamentally easier get sharper pictures by increasing the f/# ( and therefore increasing the DOF) or by using a faster shutter speed ? Is it easier to get a sharper picture at the short or long end of the zoom range.
I'm relatively new to this style of photography so admittedly my panning skills need some work.
Pardon me if this is a dumb question but I've managed to frustrate myelf big time and I could use some advice to help push the reset button.
Thanks.




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John ­ Thawley
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Aug 14, 2008 12:37 |  #49

If you are panning the shot (following the subject) Depth of Field is completely irrelevant.

Put your camera in Tv mode... start with a reasonably higher shutter... for bikes, start at maybe 1/500 - now follow the bike ... shoot.... keep following.

You should also set the camera to a single focus point (sensor).

Once you're getting good results, start lowering the shutter speed. 1/400 - 1/320 etc.

With bikes, you'll not need to go too slow. Ultimately, you will reach a point where something is NOT sharp... you may have a sharp section in the image.. but other areas will be soft. This is normal as you slow the shutter down. With cars... that can be acceptable. With bikes, you'll want the rider and the bike to be sharp. So, unless you're going for "art"... don't get it too slow.

The zoom range is not necessarily a factor... but it does make a difference in your movement. Remember, an object further away from you is passing you at a slower rate. Closer to you, it is passing at a greater rate. Speed blur and panning is all about the camera movement. You'll want to position yourself at a distance from the subject that allows you to pan smoothly and comfortably. Too fast is jerky... to slow is wobbly. So a zoom can help you fine tune the distance to fit YOUR panning motion to the car's rate of travel.

If you search this part of the site, I'm sure there are some tutorials of mine that talk about panning.

JT


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ryant35
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Aug 14, 2008 13:48 |  #50

I agree with everything in the post above, and to add my 2 cents, when I was learning to pan I would go back on the LCD screen and zoom in the vehicle to determine if it was sharp and that the background is blurred enough to your liking. My average shutter speed is 1/250 sec in Tv mode. I go slower for a while and then faster if my subject is moving towards me. You will eventually learn what parts of a track are good for which speeds.Also when you shoot in Tv at 1/250 sec you end over f/8 so that fixes your depth of field question.

If you are shooting on a flat level track I suggest shooting with a monopod to start out. But if you can use the collar mount on the lens not the bottom of the body, IMO it's really akward to handle the camera this way.



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GilesGuthrie
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Aug 14, 2008 13:54 |  #51

The previous posters have given you most of what you need, but don't forget you need the AF Mode to be AI Servo as your distance to the subject changes as you pan.

It may help if you post some samples for critique.


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williamsf1
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Aug 18, 2008 19:36 as a reply to GilesGuthrie's post |  #52

ok after reading a lot on here.... this is what I cam up with!

last weekend at silverstone F3

camera is 40D 100-400 lens no editing no photo shop...ISO 100 F 7.1 1/200th


IMAGE: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/2775790043_2bf1b8d474_b.jpg



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Cormac
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Indiana
Aug 11, 2017 17:43 |  #53

So shooting in RAW is a bad idea for motorsports? Jpeg only? I know you get a better burst rate on about any camera body with jpe. Beyond that what are the advantages? I shoot RAW for everything


I want to die peacefully, in my sleep, like my grandfather.
Not screaming, terrified, like his passengers.

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Myboostedgst
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Aug 11, 2017 22:52 |  #54

Cormac wrote in post #18425256 (external link)
So shooting in RAW is a bad idea for motorsports? Jpeg only? I know you get a better burst rate on about any camera body with jpe. Beyond that what are the advantages? I shoot RAW for everything

This is a very old thread.

To answer your question, no still shoot in RAW. While FPS is very important, timing is more important. There might be a slight bit more FPS shooting JPEG, but you will still have more than enough shooting RAW.

The only other reason you may want to shoot JPEG is if you have to deliver images quickly after the race. If you don't have time to edit, then JPEGS result in better straight out of camera images than RAW images do.


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Pippan
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Aug 12, 2017 00:31 |  #55

Myboostedgst wrote in post #18425503 (external link)
This is a very old thread.

I'm glad he resurrected it. An interesting read.

Should remind Cormac that burst rates and buffers on modern cameras are WAY better, even in raw, than the 30Ds and 40Ds they were using back then.




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Cormac
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Indiana
Post has been edited 4 months ago by Cormac.
Aug 12, 2017 03:05 |  #56

Yea, wasnt paying attention to the dates.people must not post much in this section, it was on the first page.


I want to die peacefully, in my sleep, like my grandfather.
Not screaming, terrified, like his passengers.

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Myboostedgst
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Milwaukee, WI
Aug 12, 2017 11:07 |  #57

I wish there was more discussion in this section, but unfortunately it is pretty dead.


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Klystron
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Aug 16, 2017 02:03 |  #58

I always use RAW, and standard shutter speed for motorsport. Then a bit of adjustment in Lightroom afterwards. I still end up with more photos than I want !

I agree things have moved on with technology since the 20D or 40D. I use to use a 7D, then got a 7D MKII, a step up in performance.


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john ­ crossley
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The Rhubarb Triangle
Aug 16, 2017 02:16 |  #59

Klystron wrote in post #18428975 (external link)
I always use RAW, and standard shutter speed for motorsport.

What's a standard shutter speed?
When I photograph motor-sport I use a range of shutter speeds from a quarter of a second up to a thousandth of a second.


Those that can, do. Those that can't whinge.

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Klystron
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Essex, UK
Aug 16, 2017 02:27 |  #60

Sorry worded that wrong, that should have been normal FPS, not a high shutter rate.


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