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#1 |
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Goldmember
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Hey all, i'm looking for new methods/techniques for my digital photography. I know HDR pretty darn well, but im posting here to see if there is anything else different/strange i can try. I googled a few things, but they didn't give me anyhting worthy of reading. Anything different is welcome
-Scott |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,559
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If you really want to go off the deep end, try this: make some B&W conversions with the channel mixer, invert the image to make a B&W negative, and then print them at 8x10 inches on acetate film.
Then use your 8x10 inch digital negative to do some alternative process contact printing. One cheap one is the cyanotype -- you can buy some cyanotype solution for $20 or $30, coat it on a piece of paper, put the negative on top and put a glass plate on top of it, and expose it to bright sunlight for about 20 minutes. Wash it off and you have a cyanotype -- one of the oldest types of photographic printing. This is one that I made from a 4x5 negative (from a 4x5 large format camera). But you can get good results from digital negatives as well, and 8x10 or 11x14 is a very good size for them. There are some other simple UV-based contact processes that you can do as well, like vandyke brown printing and salt printing. ![]()
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Cameras: Canon 7D, Agfa 8x10, Cambo 4x5, Noblex 150, Hasselblad 500 C/M, Canon lineup: 17-55 f/2.8 IS, Sigma 30 f/1.4, Sigma 50 f/1.4, Sigma 85 f/1.4, Canon 85 f/1.8, Canon 100 f/2.8L macro, Canon 135 f/2L, Canon 70-200 f/4L, Canon 100-400 L, Canon MP-E 65/2.8 1-5x macro, 580EX, MT-24 EX |
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#3 |
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Goldmember
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That sounsd wicekd cool, ill have to try it sometimes..anything thats all comptuer based?
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Richmond Hill, NY
Posts: 65
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You have heard of High Dynamic Range (HDR) where 2 or more different exposures of the same scene are combined for an increased tonal range. The same technique is being applied for greater depth of field where several exposures taken at different focus depths are combined.
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Stephen Quote: "When your mouth drops open, click the shutter." – Harold Feinstein |
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#5 | |
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Goldmember
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Quote:
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,559
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Why would you shoot f/32 voluntarily for anything? That is, unless your DOF requirement is that great. You're really degrading your image from diffraction once you get beyond f/11 or certainly past f/16. Unless you really have that much of an issue with depth of field, then you're best staying away from f/22 and f/32.
On my 8x10 camera I'll shoot at f/64, f/90, and f/128, but because my 8x10 images are only enlarged 2-fold, diffraction effects are never visible. But with small format you're generally enlarging your images 10-20 fold for decent-sized prints, so the resolution loss from diffraction can really ruin prints.
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Cameras: Canon 7D, Agfa 8x10, Cambo 4x5, Noblex 150, Hasselblad 500 C/M, Canon lineup: 17-55 f/2.8 IS, Sigma 30 f/1.4, Sigma 50 f/1.4, Sigma 85 f/1.4, Canon 85 f/1.8, Canon 100 f/2.8L macro, Canon 135 f/2L, Canon 70-200 f/4L, Canon 100-400 L, Canon MP-E 65/2.8 1-5x macro, 580EX, MT-24 EX |
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#7 | |
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Gaaaaa! DOH!! Oops!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 7,942
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----------------------- Fine Art America | Red Bubble | Website | Blog Gear list: Mine is bigger than yours. |
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#8 |
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Cream of the Crop
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mark iin; mark iid(S); 7d; G10: Canon 17-40, nifty 50, Canon 24-70L, Canon 10-22, Canon 70-200/2.8 L II, 300 2.8, 400/5.6, L 135, Canon 85/1.8: Canon 100 macro, tubes, Canon 1.4 tele conv. =======>>> play W.A.I.N. |
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