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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 73
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High Dynamic Range - see Wiki's explanation - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging
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#17 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: South Australia
Posts: 67
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Quote:
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Canon: 5D MkII, 40D, 10D, all gripped | 24-70mm f2.8L | 70-200mm f2.8L IS | 17-40mm f4L | 24-105mm f4L IS | 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS | 50mm f1.4 | 100mm f2.8 Macro | 10-22mm f3.5-4.5 |
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#18 |
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Member
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HRDs from one RAW file will work for scenes with a span of just a few stops, will be noisier, but will look almost as good as one from 3 braketed shots. A longer discution here, you can draw your own conclusions.
Thunderheart: there is a general rule in photography that sais that for an image to be sharp it has to be taken using 1/f of a second, where f is the focal lenght used. (if you use a 100mm lens, you'll need 1/100sec to get a sharp picture). On your 40d multiply it by 1.6, but remeber: IT'S JUS AN ORIENTATION VALUE. Some people can handheld at longer times some, can't even get it right at 1/f. It depends on how steady you can keep your arms, if you can find something to lean on and so on.
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Last edited by grig : 14th of November 2007 (Wed) at 03:57. |
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#19 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: South Australia
Posts: 67
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Thanks Grig, I'm with you now.
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Canon: 5D MkII, 40D, 10D, all gripped | 24-70mm f2.8L | 70-200mm f2.8L IS | 17-40mm f4L | 24-105mm f4L IS | 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS | 50mm f1.4 | 100mm f2.8 Macro | 10-22mm f3.5-4.5 |
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#20 |
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Member
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Maybe you've heard of it as the "rule of thumbs" or something like that!
![]() Keep in mind, that those two small letters [IS] on your L lens save you 2 stops for sure. That means you can use times up to four times as long if your IS is on, for static object to get sharp results. But I do not recommend you try to handheld braketed shots at 200mm, even with your IS on. The pics will come out sharp, but you'll have trouble aligning them coz' there will be significant diferencens in the framing. Try this handheld braket stuff at 17mm, low iso, bracket -2,0,+2, make sure that the +2 exposure will have an exposure time of at leas 1/60 and then blend them in in Photomatix. Don't forget about the Tone Mapping option which is a must and you'll be amazed of the results! ![]() Cheers! ps: another quick sample:
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Last edited by grig : 14th of November 2007 (Wed) at 04:27. |
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#21 |
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Goldmember
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grig:
I suggested 100mm/1/200 because I can't hand fold for crap I'm very impressed with your H/H HDR shots you've posted here, love the last one.
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My Gear If you saw a man drowning and could either save him or take a picture... What kind of film would you use? - Anonymous |
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#22 |
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Member
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Be advided that if the +2 exposure will be 1/200, the 0 one will be 1/800 and the -2 one will be 1/3200. And I don't know what scene will be that to have a 1/800 exposure at an iso value below 400. Take your pick on the aperture value.
The shots I braket usually are at 12mm, and i try to keep the +2 one at 1/40 minimum and iso as low as possible, 100 or 200 tops. A HDR from 3 braketed iso 400 shots will be acceptable for web only.
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#23 |
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Goldmember
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Maine.
Posts: 4,239
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gotta disagree here....I regularly do hdr shots handheld as long as the available light is good. And that's with 7 bracketed shots....everyonce in a while the last shot is just too long to be handheld and thus a little blurry, but then i just leave that out of the HDR sequence. Admittadly, I'm using a 1dmk3 for most HDRs, but I have had a few work with my 5d as well. Better to give it a go and fail, than just assume it won't work. If you don't have a tripod, you don't have a tripod....might as well try anyways. photomatix is amazing at aligning images, and there's another HDR software that I can't recall the name of (which I didn't like as much), but there is more user controllable alignment of images which can help for really tricky ones
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Fashion + Beauty | Travel | Architecture | Mayhem | Twitter | Facebook | Blog the all important tools of the trade My name is Jeff, and I'm addicted to shadows. "Hiiiiii Jeff." |
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#24 |
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Goldmember
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um...no. then it's not an HDR Photo
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Gear- 7d, 24-70L, sigma 70-200, Sigma 120-400, canon 50 1.4, Canon 100 2.0,sigma 10-20, Sigma 24mm 1.8 and a canon G11. |
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#25 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 15,543
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While I believe that many can do HDR with handheld shots for HDR with no issue, I really have to ask why? By it's very nature, setting up for an HDR shot should be a deliberative process with the ultimate purpose of getting the most from a series of images. It seems to me that if you're going to take the time to stand there and shoot for 5-7 shots, it would be sensible to use a tripod to make sure you get the absolute best from those shots.
That's just me though. I'm pretty impressed by the handheld HDR shots in the thread. Mark
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Mark ----- Some primes, some zooms, some Ls, some bodies and they all play nice together. Thirty-five years of shooting and still learning. My G&N Blog (NSFW)- My Complete Gear List - Mac-Photo Website - My Tumblr Site (NSFW) G&N FORUM EARLY ACCESS & IMAGE POSTING RULES |
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#27 | |
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about to go POSTAL
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 2,639
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AMAZING!
Quote:
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Fell in love with photos.. made lots of money.. fell out of love with photos.. took a long break.. trying to find my love again. |
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#28 | |
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"After 40 years still not housebroken, I still piddle on the carpet"
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-js
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"Be seeing you." 50D - 17-55 f/2.8 IS - 18-55 IS - 28-105 II USM - 60 f/2.8 macro - 70-200 f/4 L - Sigma flash I do not piddle on the carpet! |
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#29 |
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*sniffles*
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A tripod is clearly the way to go - but those handheld shots (especially the last one) are pretty darn cool.
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La Vida Leica! • LitPixel Galleries -- 1v-HS/1d Mk IIn w/E-1 & Op/Tech straps 15mm f/2.8, 14mm f/2.8L, 24mm f/1.4L II, 35mm f/1.4L, 50mm f/1.2L, 85mm f/1.2L II, 135mm f/2.0L 16-35mm f/2.8L, 24-70mm f/2.8L, 70-200mm f/2.8L IS, 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS, Extender EF 1.4x II & 2x II |
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#30 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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Grippy 30D, Tokina 300f4, Sigma 18-50f2.8, Canon 70-200f4L, thrifty50mkI, PM7500DX
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