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How to prevent glasses' reflection from lights?

FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 07 Feb 2008 (Thursday) 17:03   
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zwollenaar
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I'm using flashes with umbrellas to shoot portrait for a church program and confronting with the reflections from eye-glasses on subject.

The light sources in the room are:

- On stand flashes (power 1/4 at fill light on lens axis level, 1/8 at key light and 1/8 at background light with Curtis' gel)
- 3 rows of fixed fluorescent lights from ceiling 8-9 foot height.

My camera manual settings are at f/8, shutter speed 1/25, ISO 200.

Would someone tell me how to avoid the reflection on the subject's glasses? Your suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Post #1, Feb 07, 2008 17:03:29


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Jim ­ M
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The fluorescents shouldn't be too much of a problem and neither should the background light. The others you will just have to move around until they aren't reflecting in the glasses or have the subjects turn and tilt their heads until the reflections are under control. Sometimes, if the hair hides the ear pieces, you can tilt the glasses a little so the reflections are not seen. Of course, there is always the old trick of taking the lenses out of the frames if you want to go to extremes. This whole exercise will be harder if you are using flash ("speedlights") without modeling lights. With modeling lights you can see what is happening before you take the picture.

Post #2, Feb 07, 2008 18:39:26




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Titus213
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Glass reflects the flash. I've asked clients to tip their head a bit one way or another which can help somewhat. Non-reflective glass just gives a different color reflection.

Here's an idea I just thought of (I'm tired so beware) but if you took a shot with the glasses on and then took one as close to it as possible without the glasses you might have the info to fix it a lot easier.

Post #3, Feb 07, 2008 19:57:32


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bieber
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You have to consider the different angles that can go from your lens to the glass, and then reflect straight to the light source---that's what's causing your glare---and then keep the light out of it. A simple option is to have your main light on the same side as the camera, and no fill

Post #4, Feb 07, 2008 20:33:50


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TMR ­ Design
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This is where side lighting really comes in handy. It can be tricky to find a balance between the lighting you're trying to create and having the source of illumination at enough of an angle off to the side to prevent or reduce the reflection. Raising the light further up can help also but you always have to watch the modeling and the eyes to make sure you're still creating pleasing lighting while reducing glare.

Post #5, Feb 07, 2008 21:22:25 as a reply to bieber's post 48 minutes earlier.


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bieber
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GASP, Robert, you went to the dark side?

And anyways, if you're _really_ desperate, you could use polarizing filters on both the light and lens, but that'll make you lose a good four or five stops of light and give kind of an icky look to the skin, because you also get no direct reflection at all from it. Not immediately useful, probably, but something to keep in mind for the future.

Post #6, Feb 07, 2008 21:29:23


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TMR ­ Design
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Dark side, Robert? I know you're just playing (or maybe not) but it was not a quick spontaneous decision for me. I've been weighing things out since the release of the 40D and after a lot of thought, research and then finally shooting with a D300 the choice was easy for me, but it did take me about 3 full months of making myself crazy to made my decision.

I recognize that each brand has strong points but for me, making the switch made a lot of sense. Nikon has the better offering for me and my shooting style. I had more reasons to switch than to stay with Canon.

This does not mean that I am anti-Canon and as I've stated in other threads, POTN is still my home :D and will continue to be, regardless of which camera I use.

Switching is not for everyone but it made perfect sense for me.

Post #7, Feb 07, 2008 21:41:28 as a reply to bieber's post 12 minutes earlier.


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bieber
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Oh, I know what you mean: it just wouldn't do to let you by without catching some crap about it ;)

Post #8, Feb 07, 2008 22:17:36


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Wilt
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bieber wrote in post #4874030external link
GASP, Robert, you went to the dark side?.

First he abandons AB, then he buys the 'other brand'. Next thing you know, he will have converted to Scientology?! :cool:

Post #9, Feb 07, 2008 23:11:11


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Titus213
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Wilt wrote in post #4874523external link
First he abandons AB, then he buys the 'other brand'. Next thing you know, he will have converted to Scientology?! :cool:

Mr. Cruise will be all over your case....

Post #10, Feb 07, 2008 23:39:53


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TMR ­ Design
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Wilt wrote in post #4874523external link
First he abandons AB, then he buys the 'other brand'.

:cool: Best 2 decisions I've made in a long time Wilt :D

Post #11, Feb 07, 2008 23:40:35


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Village_Idiot
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bieber wrote in post #4874030external link
GASP, Robert, you went to the dark side?

And anyways, if you're _really_ desperate, you could use polarizing filters on both the light and lens, but that'll make you lose a good four or five stops of light and give kind of an icky look to the skin, because you also get no direct reflection at all from it. Not immediately useful, probably, but something to keep in mind for the future.

Wouldn't a polarizer only remove polarized light? So if it's a direct flash, you'll still get the glare from the flash?

Post #12, Feb 08, 2008 08:26:39


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Village_Idiot
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My diagram. Discuss.

IMAGE: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y162/yzfwv/FOA.jpg

The black angles from the camera are from a wider lens, say 35mm. Light 1 is in the "family of angles" from the lens so it will cause a reflection from the glass where as light 2 isn't, so it will light what's on the other side of the glass without causing glare.

The green angles represent a telephoto lens, like at 70mm focal length. Light 1 and light 2 are outside of the "family of angles" created by the focal length of the lens so therefor neither one will create glare on the glass.

That's why sometimes a telephoto lens can be desireable.

Post #13, Feb 08, 2008 08:34:16 as a reply to Village_Idiot's post 7 minutes earlier.


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snowboarderx
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θi = θr (Angle of incidence = Angle of reflection)

which means the angle the light hits the glass is the angle the light will reflect from the glasses, light is like a pool ball, just move around and you'll find that you can see if you have a reflection.

Post #14, Feb 08, 2008 08:45:40


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Titus213
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Now all we have to figure out is the curvature of the lens which I believe changes with the prescription.

Post #15, Feb 08, 2008 10:50:48


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