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#1 |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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Since the early 70's I've matted, mounted and framed my work in one fashion or another. Several months ago I finally got smart and invested in a quality matte cutter. I purchased a Logan Model 750 Simplex Plus:
http://www.artsupply.com/logan/matcutter.htm Prior to that I'd always used xacto knives, matte knives and metal straight edges. The results were usually pretty good, but sometimes there were ....... accidents There are a lot of fine mat cutters out there in a range of prices. I picked Logan because they are relatively common, can be gotten locally and online, and can often be purchased at a significant discount. Following are a series of photos showing the Model 750. I don't claim this to be any sort of definitve tutorial, but it will at least give you a sense of it's size and operation. These first 2 images show the assembled Logan 750 sitting on my desk. The desk top measures about 30x60. ==> Last edited by sapearl : 24th of February 2008 (Sun) at 19:30. |
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#2 |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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You can see the 750 takes up a bit of space and I had to clean off most of my desk to accomodate it.
The list price of this model is around $389 but you can usually find it discounted by about 1/3. As a space saving and economical alternative you can buy the model 301S instead for well under $100. It is used by many photographers but it only accomodates smaller boards with ease. It will take larger stock, but not as conveniently as the bigger models like the 750 that will take a 32x40 board. That is a good large size because you can economically cut it into four 16x20 boards. I prefer to shop at a local art supply (chain) store called Utrecht because they provide excellent service and give very good advice and timesaving tips. They also issue a 30% off coupon a couple of times a year, so their price can easily match what's found online, with no shipping fee. The next two shots show the matte cutter in action. In the first, I've lifted the blade's guide bar so the mat stock can be inserted and properly positioned against the guide plate. There is a black squaring arm on the left (by my RIGHT hand) which helps keep the board nicely aligned. This does add cost to the 750 and is not critical, but it increases speed, efficiency and makes the work flow more smoothly. It's especially helpful if your hand "hicups" while using the blade. The second photo shows me starting to mark the cut lines on the BACK of the mat in pencil. It is very easy to set the "border thickness" of the matte to be cut using the built-in measuring scale. Once you look at the hardware and try it the first time, it is quite intuitive. After you have mark all four sides, you are ready to start cutting. ==> Last edited by sapearl : 24th of February 2008 (Sun) at 19:34. |
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#3 |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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Here is a close-up of the first line being drawn. For your (pencil) straight edge, you actually use the same edge that the model 702 Bevel Cutter rides on. The bevel cutter and blades are included in the box.
The bevel cutter has a small goove that runs the length of it's underside. This groove perfectly fits a small "rail" on the straight edge. You might be able to make this out in the second photo. This groove/rail combination makes it almost impossible to create a crooked cut. As you slide the bevel cutter along that rail, it makes a perfectly straight and smooth cut as long as you apply reasonably constant pressure and use a fresh blade. This beats my old system of pressing a metal ruler down on a board, as I forced an xacto knife along its edge, hoping the straight edge wouldn't move. The bevel cutter stays "locked" in it's track by the force of your pressure. It cannot waver to the left or right. All cuts end up being perfectly straight. Notice the small white index mark on the black bevel cutter. When you align that mark with your pencil mark on the mat, you know when to stop cutting. Also note the small round knob object to the righ of the bevel cutter. This is a stop. If all your mats require identical cuts, you can set these stops to prevent the bevel cutter from travelling beyond your pencil. This speeds up a large project involving numerous. cuts. ==> Last edited by sapearl : 24th of February 2008 (Sun) at 19:36. |
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#4 |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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Here is the first cut being made.
The cutting bar/straight edge is in position over the mat board, the bevel cutter has been engaged in its grooved track, and with the blade extended into the cardboard, I am pushing it across the board following my pencil line. This is done for each side of the mat board, always cutting through the back. You make your cut, lift the straight edge, pull the board out and rotate it 90 degrees, replace it, close the edge down and continue cutting until all four sides have been completed. Once you are done, your square or rectangular hole should fall right out. Btw, pay no attention to avatar in the background. I'm jealous of that guy... he only appears to have more hair than I do. ==> Last edited by sapearl : 24th of February 2008 (Sun) at 19:37. |
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#5 |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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This last shot pretty much shows me with the completed cut mat. This is not really hard work, but it does use your arm muscles pretty well when applying the necessary pressure. But once I was completed, I was really pleased at how professional the results looked with not too much difficulty.
In all seriousness, this is precision work and my $389 mat cutter cannot compare to what the pros use in framing shops that will easily cost $1K+. They are geared to high volume work day in and out. Those folks are also FAR MORE experienced and skilled in this art than I am. That's one of the reasons why they charge so much. I will never begrudge them that. However.... with a modest investment, a modicum of patience, and some basic determination, you too can cut some pretty decent mats at a fraction of the price. If you are doing volumes of mats, then your saving swill be considerable. Any questions? ==> Last edited by sapearl : 24th of February 2008 (Sun) at 19:41. |
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#6 |
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Member
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I wonder about those artistic, curly ones - did you do those?
And it's nice to put sketch on the wall to the face I hope continuation is coming.
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#7 |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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Thanks Mike
While photographing a Bar Mitzvah reception several years ago there was a very talented artist there doing the most amazing sketches in only minutes. He insisted that I be one of his subjects and I've loved that image ever since. |
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#8 |
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Member
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Nice
My mother & myself are thinking of splitting a cutter sometime this summer. She does crafts & artwork, including painting, so she is thinking of matting some of her stuff. Do you have any experience (yet) using this cutter with a full 32x40 sheet? I'm thinking this would be better than the ' 450 Intermediate 40" ' cutter (for full size sheets), but still would like to hear how easy this is for full sheets...
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Note: You can edit my photo just tell me how you did it Canon EOS 350D/OPTech Strap | Canon EF-S 18-55mm | Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 MkII | Tamron 75-300mm Bogen 679B Monopod | Misc. CF cards, filters, bags, laptop, software, etc. http://JWSquire.com - Home Page | |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
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Do you complete the cut in one pass -
I'm using a ruler/guide system and even though the cutter fits in the groove find that to get a straight cut I have to make multiple passes . If I don't the blade deflects and causes poor results..... |
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#10 | |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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Hi Jonathan - no, I only showed that link because it had some nice diagrams althought I believe it is a pretty reputable source. I actually purchased the Simplex 750 at Utrecht which has a national chain:
http://www.utrechtart.com/dsp_view_p...me=&item=48715 The "list" price on this item seems to vary, but Utrecht's 30% off coupon brings it in line with a lot of web prices. I regularly shop at Utrecht - a couple of miles from my home - so I can stop in there any time and ask questions, or call them on the phone. They tend to be located near universities and art schools so are pretty tuned into the needs of the students. Prior to my actual purchase, she actually demonstrated the unit in the store and gave me a quick training session. So far I've only used it with a 16x20 sheet but it is perfectly suited for the 32x40. Quote:
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#11 |
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emailed Tim some prozac
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Hi Simon - yes, I can complete the cut in one pass as long as:
1. The blade is sharp and fresh 2. I have it set to the proper depth, and 3. I apply even and continuous pressure during the cut. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 507
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Wavy cuts are usually from: dull blade, or a poor backing board. I actually thought of a third possible cause: cutting real cheap mat board. The density isn't very consistent, so the blade tends to waver.
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Gerry Kaslowski gkas@socal.rr.com Gerry's Pics http://MikeKazPhotography.com/Gerry/ |
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#13 |
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Member
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I have the Logan 450 Intermediate. It works great, but I wish it had the long squaring arm like the 750 has. The 450 has a 5 inch or so 'squaring arm', it's not really an arm and I'm not sure how square mine is
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-Matt Seattle Photography - Nature|Portrait|Event 'The negative is comparable to the composer’s score and the print to its performance.' - Ansel Adams |
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 864
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Tagging thread to read later.
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#15 | |
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Member
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Quote:
32x40" sheet (need for a 27x40" frame) and a local shop got one for $22. Spendy. So I chose to get a simple cutter to cut this out, since it will solely be for home display only. But this really does look like a nice product
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Note: You can edit my photo just tell me how you did it Canon EOS 350D/OPTech Strap | Canon EF-S 18-55mm | Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 MkII | Tamron 75-300mm Bogen 679B Monopod | Misc. CF cards, filters, bags, laptop, software, etc. http://JWSquire.com - Home Page | |
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