Newb. strobe-->sync-->camera

[dave-o]

Hi all,
I'm new to strobe photography and have been doing some research but seem to be missing some info.

I have an XTi and was planning on picking up a pair of alien bees for some architectural interiors. I also have a 420EX mounted.

The main question is: Do the sync cords plug in directly to the camera, or do I need another sort of port to plug them? Especially using two strobes.

dave-o

[PacAce]

Originally Posted by dave-o

Hi all,
I'm new to strobe photography and have been doing some research but seem to be missing some info.

I have an XTi and was planning on picking up a pair of alien bees for some architectural interiors. I also have a 420EX mounted.

The main question is: Do the sync cords plug in directly to the camera, or do I need another sort of port to plug them? Especially using two strobes.

dave-o

Most cameras have a PC sync socket you can plug a strobe into via a PC sync cable. However, the DRebel series cameras do not have such a socket so you'll need to get a hotshoe-to-pc adapter. This is a gizmo that mounts on to your camera hotshoe. It has a PC socket where you can plug a strobe into.

[SkipD]

Originally Posted by dave-o

Hi all,
I'm new to strobe photography and have been doing some research but seem to be missing some info.

I have an XTi and was planning on picking up a pair of alien bees for some architectural interiors. I also have a 420EX mounted.

The main question is: Do the sync cords plug in directly to the camera, or do I need another sort of port to plug them? Especially using two strobes.

As Leo said, you'll need a hotshoe-to-PC adapter. Plug one AB strobe into the camera and the second will trigger off the first using the built-in optical slave.

I would strongly suggest that you not try using the 420EX with the AlienBees units. There's very little way to get it to sync properly with them, as the 420EX has no manual mode. Besides, you're going to need the hotshoe for the PC adapter.

Another way to trigger the AB units would be with a radio slave system. It, too, will require using the hotshoe but this time it would be for the radio transmitter.

[PacAce]

Originally Posted by SkipD

As Leo said, you'll need a hotshoe-to-PC adapter. Plug one AB strobe into the camera and the second will trigger off the first using the built-in optical slave.

I would strongly suggest that you not try using the 420EX with the AlienBees units. There's very little way to get it to sync properly with them, as the 420EX has no manual mode. Besides, you're going to need the hotshoe for the PC adapter.

Another way to trigger the AB units would be with a radio slave system. It, too, will require using the hotshoe but this time it would be for the radio transmitter.

Oops. Missed that little sentence about the 420EX. Thanks for clarifying that, Skip.

[dave-o]

does the radio slave system need a direct line of sight (or rather, line of wave) to trigger? or is it still effective tucked away?

and either way, it sounds like I can't have a flash unit mounted to the camera.

[poloman]

Right...no flash on camera.
Radio slave triggers are the way to go.
One advantage to this that you may not think of right away is that with radio triggers your lights won't be set off by someone using a point and shoot camera. They also eliminate a lot of extra cords and therefore reduce your liability and set up time. Also helpful when you are trying to set ratios on your lights. It is easier to pop one light at a time.
Get a Vagabond II and you will be portable.

[kacie]

Dave-I just got two Promasters 7500EDF and I use them off camera, my pop up flash is the trigger.

[kacie]

Also you might find some useful info here:http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

[shooterman]

Originally Posted by kacie

Dave-I just got two Promasters 7500EDF and I use them off camera, my pop up flash is the trigger.

Doesn't the pop up pre-flash set off the off camera flashes? I've tried using my pop up in the past also and life wasn't very fun, LOL.

[m3rdpwr]

Originally Posted by shooterman

Doesn't the pop up pre-flash set off the off camera flashes. I've tried using my pop up in the past also and life wasn't very fun, LOL.

I hear some people cut a piece from an exposed or unexposed (Can't remember) 35mm film lead to cover the built in flash.

It allows enough light to trigger the slaves, but not enough to contribute to the photo.

But hey, that's just what I hear...

-Me

[PacAce]

Originally Posted by dave-o

does the radio slave system need a direct line of sight (or rather, line of wave) to trigger? or is it still effective tucked away?

and either way, it sounds like I can't have a flash unit mounted to the camera.

If you got something like this, you can have a flash mounted while still connecting a wireless remote or a PC sync cord. The flash will need to be in manual mode,though (which is the way it should be anyway).

http://flashzebra.com/hotshoes-shoes/0064.shtml

[PacAce]

Originally Posted by m3rdpwr

I hear some people cut a piece from an exposed or unexposed (Can't remember) 35mm film lead to cover the built in flash.

It allows enough light to trigger the slaves, but not enough to contribute to the photo.

But hey, that's just what I hear...

-Me

With an exposed slide film over the flash head, most of the light passing through is the IR light to trigger optical slave units. However, it still won't get around the preflash issue presented by the built-in flash.

[m3rdpwr]

Originally Posted by PacAce

With an exposed slide film over the flash head, most of the light passing through is the IR light to trigger optical slave units. However, it still won't get around the preflash issue presented by the built-in flash.

I know the pre-flash is an issue, but it can be worked around with a Canon xxD model camera using both the hot shoe and the pc socket together.
(Bob Atkins does this.)

Do you in fact get a pre-flash with the built in flash when the camera is set to manual? (Something about not using focus assist light or something in Custom Function.)

I'm curious to try and test this now.

Anyone want to lend me a mono light?
(Plenty of 580EX's around.)

-Mario

[kacie]

I have the xti and use manual -no pre flash and you can use anything to cover the pop up, my hand sometimes but mostly use piece of white cloudy plactic to cover, sometimes depending how far away the subject the pop up flash has no effect.

[PacAce]

Originally Posted by kacie

I have the xti and use manual -no pre flash and you can use anything to cover the pop up, my hand sometimes but mostly use piece of white cloudy plactic to cover, sometimes depending how far away the subject the pop up flash has no effect.

A pop-up flash will also fire a preflash no matter what setting you put the camera in. If you are able to get the off-camera flashes to fire for the main exposure, you're probably using the flashes set to less than 1/2 power. And the fact that you're covering the pop-up flash would explain why you're not having exposure issues with the pop-up flash contributing too much light. This might be what m3rdpwr was referring to above regarding the use of an exposed slide film to prevent the visible flash light from affecting the exposure.