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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
Thread started 09 Jun 2008 (Monday) 18:20
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30D Exposure Bias

 
SRF34
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Jun 09, 2008 18:20 |  #1

Looking for some advice. Just started shooting this past year, mostly youth sports in which my boys participate. I calibrate my monitor using Huey. My eye (a novice eye) many times wants to add some fill light to the photos. I know faces can be dark with helmets but I am referring to the general composition. Below are 2 sets of photos where I could control the subject.

1st set: Single focus point on small stone above the big stone directly in front of the background tree trunk

2nd set: Single focus point on small sunlit stone on top of the big sunlit stone.

In both series I have 3 photos at EC = 0, +1/3, +2/3

All photos were ISO 160, 4.0, 120mm, single center AF point, evaluative metering

My eye wants to generally bump bias +1/3. What do you all see? Is it better to not touch bias and lighten in PP? Thoughts and comments would be much appreciated!

Thanks, Peter

EC=0

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO


EC= +1/3
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO


EC= +2/3
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO


Next Set:
EC=0
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO


EC=+1/3
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO


EC=+2/3
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO

Peter
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S.Horton
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Jun 09, 2008 18:27 |  #2

On the 30D, when I shoot Av, I leave EC +1/3


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Doug ­ Pardee
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Jun 09, 2008 18:41 |  #3

SRF34 wrote in post #5691768 (external link)
single center AF point, evaluative metering

That's a bad combination, and it can often cause unexpected metering results. Evaluative metering is designed to be used with auto AF-point selection (all AF points active), because it uses the AF system to determine what is subject and what is background.

I do not recommend using evaluative metering except with auto AF point selection. That would be for use in situations where there is no time to adjust anything and you have to rely on the camera to sort things out as best it can.

Whenever you have time to adjust the camera yourself, I recommend not using evaluative metering. (Although any metering technique works fine for those who like to take a test shot, chimp the histogram, and adjust accordingly.)




  
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Hermeto
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Jun 09, 2008 18:45 |  #4
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To my eyes, the best exposure for both shots is with EC=O.
All other combinations are more or less overexposed.


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SRF34
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Jun 09, 2008 20:08 as a reply to  @ Hermeto's post |  #5

If I stay with AV and centerpoint AF, is there a better metering choice other than going manual? Most of my sports photos have been soccer and lacrosse.


Peter
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Zoodles
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Jun 09, 2008 20:20 |  #6

SRF34 wrote in post #5692455 (external link)
If I stay with AV and centerpoint AF, is there a better metering choice other than going manual? Most of my sports photos have been soccer and lacrosse.

I'm thinking Partial...


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a_kraker99
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Jun 10, 2008 07:31 |  #7

If you are shooting in RAW and you plan on editing all of your pictures anyways you should overexpose your images as much as possible without blowing out the highlights. Google "expose to the right" . This can be hard to do in AV mode because the shutter speed is always changing but I find that +1/3 on AV mode in Evaluative mode does pretty good.

Your images with look a little bright and washed out when you import them but they will look good once you bring the exposure down and contrast up in PP.


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SRF34
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Jun 10, 2008 08:28 |  #8

I am still at the simple stages in this hobby. No plans to shoot RAW at this time and trying to keep PP limited and instead concentrate on my shooting skills. What is easier/better when shooting JPG - underexposed and lightening in PP or slightly overexposed (no blown highlights) and adjust exposure down and contrast up?


Peter
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a_kraker99
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Jun 10, 2008 08:31 |  #9

SRF34 wrote in post #5695085 (external link)
I am still at the simple stages in this hobby. No plans to shoot RAW at this time and trying to keep PP limited and instead concentrate on my shooting skills. What is easier/better when shooting JPG - underexposed and lightening in PP or slightly overexposed (no blown highlights) and adjust exposure down and contrast up?

Overexposing without blowing highlights is always better, Even with JPEG. The more you bring your exposure back up in PP, the more noise you are going to get.

Also, The right hand side of the histogram holds alot more informaton than the left hand side.


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Cody21
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Jun 10, 2008 08:58 |  #10

SRF34 wrote in post #5695085 (external link)
I am still at the simple stages in this hobby. No plans to shoot RAW at this time and trying to keep PP limited and instead concentrate on my shooting skills. What is easier/better when shooting JPG - underexposed and lightening in PP or slightly overexposed (no blown highlights) and adjust exposure down and contrast up?

Learning NOW to shoot RAW & use some basic PP is your friend. You will be able to 'recover' more overexposed data when processing it in RAW rather than JPG. With the 30D, you can shoot RAW+JPG -- just so you can have the immediacy of JPG files ... but you'll also have RAW files to play with for those "special" shots that you really want to adjust in PP.


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a_kraker99
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Jun 10, 2008 09:16 |  #11

This thread will not be complete until PhotosGuy comes in and posts his exposure crutch link and why he shoots in Manual mode link. :-) Where could he be?


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Zoodles
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Jun 10, 2008 10:22 |  #12

a_kraker99 wrote in post #5695098 (external link)
Overexposing without blowing highlights is always better, Even with JPEG. The more you bring your exposure back up in PP, the more noise you are going to get.

Also, The right hand side of the histogram holds alot more informaton than the left hand side.

I disagree guys (and believe me I know what you're trying to explain to Peter -the OP)

I think someone new to photography should learn proper exposure first before refining their skills with digital-only techniques.
Peter, you should learn how to expose a shot properly (histogram centered) and learn the effects of aperture, shutter and dark or light subjects and how they all inter-relate. A good start is using Av mode (or Tv if you want to control shutter speed) - then you should try experimenting with manual and see the effect of all your adjustments on the image.
After you know how to expose a photo properly then you can move to intentionally over (or under) expose for a given situation.


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Cody21
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Jun 10, 2008 10:22 |  #13

lol ...


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a_kraker99
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Jun 10, 2008 10:27 |  #14

Good point. The expose to the right thing could seem a tad confusing to a beginner.


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Glenn ­ NK
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Jun 10, 2008 10:52 |  #15

Zoodles wrote in post #5695767 (external link)
I think someone new to photography should learn proper exposure first before refining their skills with digital-only techniques.

Peter, you should learn how to expose a shot properly (histogram centered) and learn the effects of aperture, shutter and dark or light subjects and how they all inter-relate. A good start is using Av mode (or Tv if you want to control shutter speed) - then you should try experimenting with manual and see the effect of all your adjustments on the image.

After you know how to expose a photo properly then you can move to intentionally over (or under) expose for a given situation.

I agree - he should learn exposure inside and out.

Buy and read: Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson.

Our OP is trying to do the impossible but might not know it - that scene with deep shade and light-coloured rocks in the bright sun cannot be exposed perfectly - too much dynamic range for the sensor.

It's good that he's experimenting to learn what's going on.

In the meantime, I agree about shooting both JPG and RAW. What if he happens to capture a once-in-a-lifetime shot and it's in JPG and overexposed to the extent that he can't recover the highlights in JPG. In a year from now he'll be glad to have the RAW image.

I only used JPG on one occasion - my first day with the camera and I didn't know it was set for JPG only. That was the last time it will ever happen.


Exposing to the right - ETTR - isn't all that difficult - at least one should know why.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial​s/expose-right.shtml (external link)


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30D Exposure Bias
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