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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 353
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So i tried a few night shots.. We have a little 10-15 mph breeze right now.. But i used a tripod.
MY XSI (450D) Using my 28-135mm IS lens - Shooting in Manual Aperture - F14 ISO - 100 Length - 28mm Exposure - 25 sec Mirror Lock up - Engaged Live view - On Just looks grainy and not right .. Can some one give me some points and tips. I spent most of the day Searching the forums under night shots and learning some key points. You tell me . C&C welcome. I normally hot day shots where light wasnt an issue. ![]()
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7D I 30D I 17-40L I 70-200 F4L I 10-22 I 15-85 I 100 F2.8 I 28-135 I 430EX II
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#2 |
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User is banned from forums
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I like the light trails.
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Honolulu, Hawai'i
Posts: 959
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The grain is probably due to the nature of the shot. The ISO setting is right for long exposures, but here the shot is underexposed (that's the nature of shooting at night). Underexposed shots are more likely to have pronounced noise. That's part of the argument for "exposing to the right".
What you can try is doing a dark frame (where you leave your lens cap on and do a "longish" exposure) to get a noise profile and to find where you have burnt pixels. After you bring the shots into PS, you can add the dark frame as a layer and do a difference to remove the noise and fried pixels. I have a feeling, though, that there is an easier way to do this. Best of luck. John
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Photography equipment: 5DII, 17-40L, Hoya Pro1 CPL, Hitech NDs & GNDs (soft/hard), Cokin Z-pro filter holder, Canon shutter controller, Manfrotto tripod, Giottos head.
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#4 |
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Goldmember
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Can you try this shot at f8? See how you go!!
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#5 |
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"I'm the original idiot"
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I've got similar "blocked up" highlights in shots taken in Venice. I thought about it afterwards and I think it would help here.
Your 25 second exposure would indicate to me that is was quite late, with little or no colour in the sky - at least colour that the camera dynamic range can see. The answer for my Venice shots was to just shoot earlier in the evening, while there's something for the sensor to work with. I put that theory to the test the other weekend in Valencia and I think it worked. If you can be bothered, the Valencia night shot link is below. On the image you have posted I cannot see any "grain" (actually I'm advised by more knowledgable digital photographers than me that its actually the pattern from the sensor), but I believe you can see it it in the original because its a function of underexposed shadow areas, as well as long exposures. I see that my 30D has a "long exposure" gadget. I've never used it, as you can tell! But is there any mileage in using it? Anyone? |
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#6 |
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Member
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Canon 50D|70-200 2.8 IS II |Sigma 17-50 OS| Canon 85mm 1.8| Canon 50mm f1.8 II |430 EX II Speedlite| Manfrotto 055XPROB| Cullmann head| Adobe CS5 |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 353
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Thanks for the tips guys. I have my long exposure noise reduction set to ON. And it was a bit late. I thnk i waited too late to get a picture. I will try to take some more tonight, some at F8. Regardless ill take them with more color left in the sky
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7D I 30D I 17-40L I 70-200 F4L I 10-22 I 15-85 I 100 F2.8 I 28-135 I 430EX II
"Losers make excuses, Winners make it happen" |
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#8 |
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Light Bringer
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Grain is likely because it's underexposed.
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 353
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Okay, yea the light just went away too fast.. I'll try it again with more light ...
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7D I 30D I 17-40L I 70-200 F4L I 10-22 I 15-85 I 100 F2.8 I 28-135 I 430EX II
"Losers make excuses, Winners make it happen" Last edited by Vndcatr : 31st of August 2008 (Sun) at 20:54. |
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#10 |
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Light Bringer
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If you're asking about my suggestion that the image was underexposed the solution would seem obvious - either let more light hit the sensor (shutter/aperture), or increase the sensitivity of the sensor (ISO).
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Camera and Lens Reviews ~ Wellington Wedding Photographer Wellington Wedding Photographer (site2) ~ Wellington Wedding Photographer (site3) Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc) |
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#11 |
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Member
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To me the biggest issue by far is the lack of any interesting subject matter...I assume this was taken in your front yard, is there a more dynamic "downtown" setting nearby you could try next time? (If not, at least put the garden hose in the corner of the frame away
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kentucky, USA
Posts: 516
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Night shots can be tricky. You need to get enough light on the sensor. and even with that, you are likely to get some noise. The lower your ISO the better.
Make sure you have a sturdy tripod, and do not be afraid of time. I did some waterfalls at night a few weeks ago and had exposure times ranging from 5 to 15 minutes. Of course, there were no street lights in those images. Last edited by rdricks : 1st of September 2008 (Mon) at 02:22. |
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 353
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Quote:
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7D I 30D I 17-40L I 70-200 F4L I 10-22 I 15-85 I 100 F2.8 I 28-135 I 430EX II
"Losers make excuses, Winners make it happen" |
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