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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bergen County, New Jersey
Posts: 357
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With a recent purchase of a Canon 24-70mm lens (and Canon 5d), I am planning an upcoming trip to California for Landscape Photography.
As a beginner, what is generally the best aperture for maximum DOF / sharpness with the 24-70mm? Based on theory, I would say f/18-f/22, but I have been reading that you can actually lose sharpment in this range...and should actually shoot f/13 to f/16. What aperture do you shoot for landscapes? Of course, I will be using a Tripod Last edited by oak3x : 27th of September 2008 (Sat) at 09:32. |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Honolulu, Hawai'i
Posts: 960
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Well, I've heard f/8-f/16 is where the sweet spot is for good DOF because at higher f#, diffraction causes loss of sharpness. However, many of the books that I've read by professional photographers, they shoot at very high f# (typically f/22) so I really wonder as to what is more important: DOF or sharpness loss due to diffraction.
I tend to think that DOF is more important, especially in landscape work, so I usually shoot at a high f# almost all the time (unless I'm doing night photography). I can't really see the effects of diffraction in any of the professional pictures, so I'm not so sure it's dominating effect. Best of luck in Cali. John
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Photography equipment: 5DII, 17-40L, Hoya Pro1 CPL, Hitech NDs & GNDs (soft/hard), Cokin Z-pro filter holder, Canon shutter controller, Manfrotto tripod, Giottos head.
www.GreatEscapePhotography.com |
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#3 |
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Is that a 300mm in your pocket?
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90% of my landscape work is f11-f16
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 251
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Keep your aperture as small as you can to ensure that the foreground and background are sharp. If you find unable to do it, increase the iso to enable a usable speed for you to have the camera handheld unless you have stand. Bring along a remote for those sunrise and sunset shots too.
Enjoy your trip.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 72
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Ditto to Peter Ho. The slowest shutter speed you can han-hold or put on a tripod and the smallest aperture is a must. In every landscape use a tripod! Just remember in landscapes a viewer usually would like to see from foreground to background as sharp as a tack. But then, rules were made to be broken too. So just photograph what you see and be happy as the day is long!
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Near the desert
Posts: 1,205
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#7 |
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Taking the "Walk of Shame"
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I haven't read the bob atkins link but I believe diffraction sets in on the 24-70 at and above f13. I normally shoot it at f11 and go for the hyperfocal distance if possible
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#8 |
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Member
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If you have a really close foreground and far background and you'd like both to be sharp, I would recommend shooting at least f16 and figure out the hyperfocal distance. If you don't have such a wide range in foreground and background, it's not as important to use such a narrow aperture.
Always use a tripod, of course. The key to landscape photography is to slow down!!! |
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#9 | |
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User is banned from forums
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Quote:
I shoot on a 1d3, and i also usually use 11, once in awhile i'll go to 13, but not often. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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f/22 on 5d should be good. i shoot all of my landscapes f/16-f/22 and the 5d has enough of resolving power to bring out all of the detail without worrying about the diffraction
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#11 |
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Senior Member
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I use f16 and f22. Hyperfocal distance is a must. If you don't have a distance scale...its usually about one third out from your closest subject or so. (dont quote me on that!)
Remember... MIRROR LOCK UP and REMOTE SHUTTER RELEASE!!!! (or self timer) They make a bigger difference in sharpness than one might think!
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#12 |
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Member
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At 24mm f/8 on a 5D, focusing at about 8' will give you critical focus from 4' to Infinity.
At f/16, focusing at about 4' will give you critical focus from 2' to Infinity. (source: dofmaster.com) That extra 2' might be worth the loss of light and sharpness depending on your desire. Lenses tend to be sharpest between f/5.6 - f/8. In short, decide your aperture based on what you want to do -- don't go by any hard-and-fast rule of f/16 or f/22. Take a look at http://www.slrgear.com/reviews/zprod...28/tloader.htm to see how aperture affects lab test shots for your lens. |
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#13 |
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Cream of the Crop
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 8,170
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Do not use the "one-third of the way in" focusing guideline...its a rule of thumb that is only accurate at certain focal lengths and aperture settings. Read up on hyperfocal distance. Basically, you first determine the focusing distance of the nearest object in your frame. Double that distance, and this value is your hyperfocal distance. The required aperture will be dependent upon this distance, as well as the focal length of the lens.
One other tip...don't set your camera on the tripod and set in position. Doing this, you allow the tripod to determine your composition. First, hold the camera to your eye and survey the scene. When you see a composition in the VF that appeals to you, note the position of your feet relative to the scene and then place the tripod. This way, you're setting the comp instead of the tripod. Little detail, but I find that this works for me.
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 456
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I dont really go over F/16 with my 50 1.2 or 16-35mm.
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#15 |
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Cream of the Crop
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 8,170
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Be mindful of diffraction at small apertures, but don't sweat over it too much. This was shot with a 17-40L on a 5DMkII, with an aperture of f/22. The near rock in the left foreground was about a foot away from the lens. I don't see any diffraction effects (but I should have been more concerned about the two water droplets that had splashed onto the lens, ruining the shot
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