Light Meters $$ whats the difference?

[epeace]

I recently got a couple strobes and have been playing around with them. I pretty much just go by feel and have come out with decent results . .



however, i know that for more granular control i will, at some point, need to get my ratios down scientific like (when using multiple strobes). to do this i will require a meter of some sort.

which brings me to my question. there are meters for $15 US and there are meters for over $800 US. this may sound like a stupid question (maybe it is) but whats the difference. clearly the $800 Broncolor light meter is of better quality than a $15 DeJur . . .. but what specifically is the difference .. more features im assuming? what are these features . .

the reason i ask is . . what seems to be the light meter of choice where i read is the Sekonic L-358 . . i just dont know if i should drop the $250 to get it or if i could perhaps get by using a cheaper alternative until i feel like spending the dough . . . .

im sure theres a reason i should just get the sekonic and forget it (aside from doing it right the first time) . . but i would like to hear the reason anyway . .

[OceanRider]

i look forward to any suggestions as I am in the same boat!

[sdommin]

For your purposes, the major difference is that only some (the more expensive ones) can read the exposure from a flash unit. The cheaper ones can only read the constant light levels (i.e., they're not quick enough to read flash).

The real question is: why would you bother with a light meter in today's world of digital, where you can just as easily judge your exposure a split second after you take the photo instead of trying to get it right before you take the photo. You're going to look at the LCD anyway to see if your lighting is right, aren't you?

[epeace]

Originally Posted by sdommin

The real question is: why would you bother with a light meter in today's world of digital, where you can just as easily judge your exposure a split second after you take the photo instead of trying to get it right before you take the photo.

well thats kind of how i have been doing it . . . ill take a few test shots to get my bearings . . . but it seems that in my mock studio the same settings pretty much work for most lighting arrangements i have experimented with . .
i guess i was interested in a meter to experiment with different ratios that i have read about to see the results from that . . also i know several pros that shoot almost all digital and they still use light meters . .

Originally Posted by sdommin

You're going to look at the LCD anyway to see if your lighting is right, aren't you?

ever since the chimping thread i have found myself using the review significantly less . . i was amazed at the battery life i saved by simply turning the review off . . the way i see it . . if you know what you're doing you will get the shot . .

[sdommin]

Originally Posted by epeace

ever since the chimping thread i have found myself using the review significantly less . . i was amazed at the battery life i saved by simply turning the review off . . the way i see it . . if you know what you're doing you will get the shot . .

I consider the review function one of the best things about digital photography, and I don't care if it has a derogatory name or not. Sure, it uses a bit more battery power, but if you're intentionally going to not use it to its fullest extent, you might as well be using film!

[scottbergerphoto]

The more expensive meters like the Sekonic L508 have 1 degree spotmeters, digital read outs in the spotmeter and very low light sensitivity. The may also be more water resistant. You don't need these things for most studio situations. I reccommend the Sekonic L358, the $25 Pocket Wizard Module for it, and a set of Pocket Wizard's Plus.
Scott

[FlipsidE]

I completely agree with Scott's recommendation.

FlipsidE

[snibbetsj]

Originally Posted by FlipsidE

I completely agree with Scott's recommendation.

FlipsidE

Me too!

I use the Sekonic L358 for studio photography. It's the best way to set light ratios and my exposures are right on from the git go. Sure, you can take a guess and chimp and reset (several times or more) but if you've got people sitting there waiting for you to shoot there photo it looks pretty silly.

[epeace]

thats what i figured . . . better to know than guess. .

sdommin . . i didnt stop using the review because of shame . . it was more out of curiosity . . what i discovered shocked me . . my battery life went from hours to days for one . . second i found that i just dont need to review every shot after its taken . . i have to have a bit of confidence in my ability as a photographer and as a bonus i have found a better momentum to my shoots when i dont feel the need to stop after every shot or every few shots . . besides . . the benefits to digital photography go far beyond the review function . . primarily in post prod . .

so the sekonic L358 holds popularity . . so is the consensus that i should just get it and not mess with a cheaper meter?

[w10d]

Not sure what's in the Sekonic range now - I bought the cheapest Flash meter they made in 1993, an L-308: I still use it today, & I've never found the need for anything more elaborate. If you're doing still life & want to measure multiple flashes & refer to memory functions, obviously you'd need more, but I've been very pleased with the sekonic.

[NGrinerPhoto]

Originally Posted by w10d

Not sure what's in the Sekonic range now - I bought the cheapest Flash meter they made in 1993, an L-308: I still use it today, & I've never found the need for anything more elaborate. If you're doing still life & want to measure multiple flashes & refer to memory functions, obviously you'd need more, but I've been very pleased with the sekonic.

i use the 308 too - it's digital, really simple to use and $180 at b&h - nick

[blinking8s]

im still pretty new to the strobing and studio work, but I was looking at the alienbees which are synced wirelessly (thats how it read) to each other then a cable to the camera...

would the wireless module on the 358 fire the strobes? or do they have to be connected into something like the pocket wizzard...why would you want the meter to be wireless? what advantage does this have?

[PhotosGuy]

Lighting ratios:
1 light at 5.6' & another at 8' = 1-stop difference = 2X the light.
1 light at 5.6' & another at 11' = 2-stops difference = 4X the light.
See the relationship between f-stops as numbers & f-stops as a measure of distance? Do you really need a meter for that?

[w10d]

Originally Posted by PhotosGuy

See the relationship between f-stops as numbers & f-stops as a measure of distance? Do you really need a meter for that?

For what? Measuring distance??

[epeace]

Originally Posted by blinking8s

would the wireless module on the 358 fire the strobes? or do they have to be connected into something like the pocket wizzard...why would you want the meter to be wireless? what advantage does this have?

the alienbees strobes are triggered by any of three methods: flash, direct cable, or infrared. the L358 will fire the strobes via infrared. the advantage to going wireless is that you would be untethered and free to move about the shot area without regard to obstacles.

Originally Posted by PhotosGuy

Lighting ratios:
1 light at 5.6' & another at 8' = 1-stop difference = 2X the light.
1 light at 5.6' & another at 11' = 2-stops difference = 4X the light.
See the relationship between f-stops as numbers & f-stops as a measure of distance? Do you really need a meter for that?

it is my understanding that the f stop numbers are ratios of focal length to aperature diameter not distance to subject. ie a 100mm lens at f/4 would be an aperature of 25mm (or focal length / 4)