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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation 
Thread started 21 Dec 2008 (Sunday) 22:08
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Making HDR: Shooting with AEB and studio flashes...

 
danieldare
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Dec 21, 2008 22:08 |  #1

I am not really new to HDR or studio lighting...

But I am wondering how it works to set up a camera with AEB and continous burst on, while either wirelessly (or wired) synced to studio strobes, ones with a minimum recharge time of .5 sec?

So I guess my question is, if the strobes have a recharge time of .5sec, will that be enough to fire during all 3 snapshots?
Or will the strobes not even be triggered?
Or wil lthey fire, but possibly not for all shots?


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krb
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Dec 21, 2008 22:18 |  #2

No, the strobes will not be able to recharge fast enoguh so the second two shots will not get flash.

Some remote controls can be configured for things like "fire 3 shots with a 2 second interval between each shot."

I have to ask, what subjects are you shooting that you are using strobes yet need to make it an HDR?


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danieldare
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Dec 21, 2008 22:26 |  #3

Band promos & possibly portraits (my models are pretty good, they can stay pretty darn still)


My last question is this, I know that I cannot use my 430EX for FEB, and that AEB turns off when a flash os in the shoe, but will AEB turn off with a wireless transmitter?

If so, will it work instead to use sync cords from the camera? (meaning will the AEB stay on?)

My thought is that the strobes MIGHT work for all 3 of the shots if they have a .5sec recharge time, and that may work if they are cool right before the exposure set


The reason that I am asking all of this instead of just trying it?
Haha, my old strobes broke, so I have a new set coming from eBay...
So I am just trying to see if I will need to break out the tripod and manually change the exposure for the shots? Or if this can possibly work...


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krb
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Dec 22, 2008 00:55 |  #4

I think AEB only turns off when an ETTL capable speed light is attached but that it still works with a connection to the PC port. to my knowledge it doesn't detect things attached to the PC port so I don't see how it could turn off the AEB.

Regardless of how well your models can stay still, I still don't see what HDR is going to do for you. I'm also curious about your tripod comment. I've only done a little HDR but in my very limited experience a tripod is mandatory, AEB or not.


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danieldare
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Dec 22, 2008 02:17 |  #5

krb wrote in post #6924591 (external link)
Regardless of how well your models can stay still, I still don't see what HDR is going to do for you. I'm also curious about your tripod comment. I've only done a little HDR but in my very limited experience a tripod is mandatory, AEB or not.

1: Set me apart from the rest of the "photographers" in the area...

2: Ive got some pretty darn steady hands, with the AEB in a well lit area where the exposures dont have to be long, I have been able to get 3 consecutive shots with AEB and use them in a HDR, with just a little alignment from photomatix, they look just fine.


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canonloader
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Dec 22, 2008 10:15 |  #6

Why not put the drive in Single Shot? Then you can set AEB, and use the remote to shoot one every 3/4 of a second.


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kirkt
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Dec 22, 2008 10:25 |  #7

What would you need HDR for in this context (band promos, portraits)? If you are gong to use multiple exposures to capture the dynamic range of the background (with the strobes lighting the subjects) I suppose you can try a couple of things. Shoot the HDR exposures of the background separately and then you don;t need to worry about capturing the entire scene all at once over multiple exposures (composite your strobe-lit subjects in in PP). Or strobe the subjects and strobe the background so that you only need a single exposure with balanced lighting (whatever ratio you choose). It is hard to visualize what effect you are going for with HDR, but I suppose there are a few different ways to pull it off depending upon the shooting conditions, location, action, etc.

Good luck!

Kirk


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Serrator
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Dec 22, 2008 11:33 |  #8

I am also interested in how using HDR for this type work is useful. Normally HDR is used to help us photographers with high contrast scenes where we cannot control the light. In your scene you are controlling the light so I am assuming you are going to intentionally create a high contrast scene that you can then HDR/TM?


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danieldare
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Dec 22, 2008 14:38 |  #9

Serrator wrote in post #6926803 (external link)
I am also interested in how using HDR for this type work is useful.

Its all about the marketing.
Sacramento area...TONS of "photographers", mostly groupie type 15-16 year olds with P&S cameras from WalMart or something...
But we do have about 5-6 serious amateur/pro's within a 100mi. radius (music photographers...)

Most do not have a specific PP "style", the band promos look awfully similar.

With this I am hoping to get an HDR image, tone map it, and then use a Topaz Lab type technique that I do.




On the other hand, making composites is not something I am very good at, but I am improving slightly...

Serrator wrote in post #6926803 (external link)
In your scene you are controlling the light so I am assuming you are going to intentionally create a high contrast scene that you can then HDR/TM?

Yes, lol.


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Serrator
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Dec 22, 2008 15:21 |  #10

danieldare wrote in post #6927894 (external link)
Its all about the marketing.
Sacramento area...TONS of "photographers", mostly groupie type 15-16 year olds with P&S cameras from WalMart or something...
But we do have about 5-6 serious amateur/pro's within a 100mi. radius (music photographers...)

Most do not have a specific PP "style", the band promos look awfully similar.

With this I am hoping to get an HDR image, tone map it, and then use a Topaz Lab type technique that I do.

On the other hand, making composites is not something I am very good at, but I am improving slightly...

Yes, lol.

Cool, good luck with it...be sure to post some of your results!


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kirkt
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Dec 22, 2008 18:53 |  #11

rock on.


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Making HDR: Shooting with AEB and studio flashes...
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