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#1 |
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Hi everyone. 1st post here. I've been lurking a while trying to learn to improve my photography skills. My daughter is a hunter jumper and it is the time of year (indoor rings) that really challenges my lack of real photography skill. I finally took the plunge and added a 70-200 2.8L is to my kit lenses in hopes of improving my chances with the 40D. I've been learning more about the camera each time out but still consider myself a novice. I have had some luck in aperture priority mode but realize that the best results will probably come in full manual. I would appreciate any advice on low light moving shot settings for this lens ... thanks in advance for any help
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#2 |
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GIVIN' GOOD KARMA
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There is nothing wrong with using AV mode. I prefer M in most situations, but if used correctly AV will yield great results.
I have no idea on the type of lighting you're encountering, but I would guess that it is almost non-existent. You'll likely need to have the lens wide open at f/2.8 and ISO 1600 to get fast enough shutter speeds to avoid blurring. That would at least be a starting point. Also, use only the center point for focusing. That will help assure that where the camera is pointing will be where it is attempting to focus. The best thing you can do is go out and shoot, shoot, shoot. Then come back to POTN and post up the images that you are happy with and the ones that you are not quite happy with and ask for some advice. The good folks here can help you figure out what went wrong and what went right. Welcome to POTN and the land of the posting! |
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#3 |
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GIVIN' GOOD KARMA
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Adorable shot, by the way!
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#4 |
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The first thing to remember is no flash. A flash can be dangerous to both horse and rider. You never know how a horse will react to a flash. I have seen normally docile horse get really nervous and jumpy when faced with a flash.
Second. Aperture priority will work OK just set your ISO high enough that you can get at least 1/320 on the shutter. If the light is consistent enough then you are correct that Manual mode is best. Don't think that you have to get every jump. Pick a good spot where you have a good angle at 2 or 3 jumps and concentrate on them. That will also let you better use manual mode. Even if you have to adjust your shutter speed between jumps you should have plenty of time to turn the dial. Good luck, have fun with it and post your results. Michael
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Michael Springfield - Atlanta, GA Canon 1DsMkII, Canon 1DMkIII, Canon 28-70mm 2.8L, Canon 70-200mm 2.8L IS, Canon 100mm F/2, Canon 100mm F/2.8L IS Macro, Canon 135mm F/2L, Canon 200mm F/1.8L, Canon 300mm F/4L IS, Canon EF 1.4x II |
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#5 | |
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Goldmember
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 2,697
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Welcome to the forum!
Quote:
Indoor horse events are a challenge because very often there is so little light to work with. There is no way to know exactly how much light (and therefore exactly what camera settings) you will have. I agree DDCSD on starting Av, f/2.8, and ISO 1600. You might even try ISO 3200 (I think it is H on your camera, check your manual) to see what shutter speeds result. Post--get feedback--tweak your technique--shoot--post again. It's fun, occasionally frustrating, and then rewarding. This pic of my daughter showing her POA was taken with a 30D and a 70-200 at 200mm, f/2.8, ISO 1600, Av, center focus point. With the lighting at this venue, it resulted in a shutter speed of 1/125. ![]() Faster action requires a faster SS. Good Luck!
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Phil Zivnuska Gear List www.zivnuska.zenfolio.com "It's not tight until you see the color of the irides." |
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#6 | |
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#7 | |
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#8 | |
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#9 | |
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Goldmember
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
1. 100mm, 1/800, 2.8, 3200 . ![]() 2. 115mm, 1/1000, 2.8, 3200 . ![]() 3. 148mm, 1/640, 2.8, 3200 ![]() 4. 150mm, 1/640, 2.8, 3200 ![]() Here is a shot taken with the 85mm f/1.8 canon lens that is very popular with sports shooters. It was shot at f/1.8 in an effort to try to blur the background with a shallow depth of field. Still way too busy. Hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes. You may be able to get higher or lower or a different place in the riding arena to clean up the backgrounds. 5. 85mm, 1/500, 1.8, 1600 ![]()
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Phil Zivnuska Gear List www.zivnuska.zenfolio.com "It's not tight until you see the color of the irides." Last edited by Zivnuska : 28th of December 2008 (Sun) at 19:43. |
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#10 |
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O.K. everyone ..... thanks again for your help and thanks zivnuska for giving me some settings to start from. I did not have a great day shooting but I am making progress. It pays to really know your camera inside and out as when I got to the ring and tried to set up the camera settings it would not allow me to set the iso @ 3200. Of course as i was fumbling through the handbook everything got started so I tried to make the best of the 1600 iso
Photo 1 - 70mm @ 2.8 1/200 1250iso Photo 2 - 70mm @2.8 1/160 1600iso I don't know how to add more than 2 pics so I will add more ........ also, these are straight out of the camera. Thanks again. |
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#11 |
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Here are a couple other shots including my best shot of another rider
Photo 4 - 105Mm @ 2.8, 1/125 1600iso Photo 3 - 135mm @2.8, 1/200 1250iso |
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#12 |
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GIVIN' GOOD KARMA
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Wow, that lighting is even worse than I thought!
I don't think you did too bad considering. I would set up and try to do shots at the jump in the last photo. It looks like the lighting is much better there. You can set it so the your camera can go to ISO 3200 (the camera will say H instead of 3200) in your custom function menu (at least I think that is where you do it on the 40D). When subjects are traveling towards you, you'll get less apparent motion blur. That is why that last photo is sharper than the rest of them. You can position yourself there to get some "safe shots". They also work well because you can see the riders face. Try to focus on the riders face, instead of the horses head though. Another thing to do when you can't get shutter speeds up is to pan the action. I suspect this will work well in this situation. Find a spot on the horse and try to keep your center focus point pinned there while tracking the horse. Then do a 2-3 picture burst, all while keeping the focus point pinned as best you can on that same spot. This will keep the horse/rider fairly sharp while blurring the jumps and background. Also, I don't know if this was mentioned, but be sure to use AI Servo and center point focus only. |
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#13 |
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Derek,
I appreciate your comments to my first post and coming back to see my results. Shooting on this arena was a challenge with the many light and dark spots and the last jump was a good spot. Before today I did not know how to get to 3200 ISO and so I have opened up new doors. Your suggestion to track the horse makes a lot of sense and thinking about this I think I have tried to focus on the head of the rider or where I think they will be going through the jump. With the horse as a bigger target I should have more keepers .. thanks. I did use center point and AI servo but I think the jumps had so many decorations around them that my best shot was manual focus. Here is a shot across the arena at 70MM, 2.8 @ 800ISO and 1/200 - surprised this turned out with the dark horse and distance ..... I'll keep trying. Thanks again for the comments. |
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 381
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When it's THAT dark, and your lighting is constant, you really can't beat 'M'. Either use a light meter, or take a spot reading from a grey card. Once you've got your settings you'll be fine.
Otherwise, a grey horse will fool the exposure meter in the camera into thinking it's a lighter scene than it really is and under expose it. Conversely, a bay or dark-coloured horse will fool your camera into thinking the scene's darker than it actually is and really slow your shutter speed down.
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2x1D Mk.III, 400 f2.8l IS, 70-200 f2.8l IS, 24-70 f2.8l
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#15 |
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Ugly lighting but I agree that you did an excellent job given the conditions. Your timing was very good catching the the horse at the right moment. If all of your daughter's competitions are under similar conditions then a faster lens will be your best friend. A 200 1.8/2.0 is ideal if your wallet can stand it. Otherwise look into a 135 F2.
This one is with a 200 1.8. ![]()
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Michael Springfield - Atlanta, GA Canon 1DsMkII, Canon 1DMkIII, Canon 28-70mm 2.8L, Canon 70-200mm 2.8L IS, Canon 100mm F/2, Canon 100mm F/2.8L IS Macro, Canon 135mm F/2L, Canon 200mm F/1.8L, Canon 300mm F/4L IS, Canon EF 1.4x II |
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