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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 3
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Hi guys,
It seems like the consensus is to shoot at higher ISO levels to achieve faster shutter speeds (less blur due to Earth's rotation). What about aperture? I've read some places that stars and things are "point" sources of light and so aperture does not affect them. This leads me to believe that stopping down might be the best thing to do, to hopefully mitigate some of my light pollution. Any truth to this theory? As to my specific setup, I've just got my DSLR on my tripod with an infrared remote. So far i've just been shooting shortish (1-5 min) exposures and stitching 'em in CS3. Thanks in advance for sharing all your wisdom, Ross |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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As a relative beginner I tend to go for the lowest aperture possible when shooting anything but the moon. This is because I want to grab as much light as I can and as quickly as possible, to minimise any field rotation or drift error while tracking. So I usually shoot at ISO1600 as well.
I gather that on some lenses you can reduce certain aberrations by stopping down the aperture, but I don't know much about that myself.
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Canon EOS 450D, Sigma 18-200mm, Canon 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 2x TC, Revelation 12" f/5 Dobsonian, Mintron PD2285-EX webcam. |
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#3 |
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Rare exception that I didn't say anything stupid"
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Canadian Arctic
Posts: 9,020
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Lowest as possible, everything lowest as possible. Small numbers are = goooood.
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#4 |
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Goldmember
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I too will use a wide open aperture to capture as much light as possible - including stars that would be too faint to see otherwise.
If light pollution gives you a funny coloured sky, that can be corrected in PS or similar.
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At the beginning of time there was absolutely nothing. And then it exploded! Terry Pratchett http://www.scarecrowimages.com Canon PowerShot G2 |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA!
Posts: 1,184
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: cleveland ohio usa
Posts: 1,899
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Love my depth of field as from f7 or 8 Also like focus and illumination of subject. Moving things are shot at 1/100-1/125 Shutter P ISO 100 Pretty safe. Crazy things like hummingbirds go 1/300+
Sam
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We'll rape the horses and ride off on the women rebel xs 18-55is,55-250is promaster2500 flash |
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 3
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I'm just getting started, so i'm still using the kit lenses.
Nikkor 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 and Nikkor 55-200mm 4-5.6 was trying to get a decent shot of the venus/moon combo last night, but it didn't come out too well. I guess its time to upgrade my optics... |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA!
Posts: 1,184
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Blurring?
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#10 |
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Rare exception that I didn't say anything stupid"
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Canadian Arctic
Posts: 9,020
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here here
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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Jeff 50D Grrrrip'd | Tokina 12-24 | Canon 50mm f/1.4 | Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 | Canon 28-135 IS| 430EX Astrophotograpy: Meade 10" LX200/UHTC, Orion 5" Mak, Vixen 80mm f/5, Coronado PST, Atlas EQ-G to keep it all off the ground. MY AIRPLANE PICS | MY ASTRO PICS |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 763
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Also realize that the smallest aperture isn't always the best, either. Around f/11 and smaller diffraction starts to noticeably effect the image quality. DOF expands but image quality actually degrades.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
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As a matter of fact, they move a heck of a lot faster. They're just so so far away it only *looks* like they're moving slowly!
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Canon EOS 450D, Sigma 18-200mm, Canon 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 2x TC, Revelation 12" f/5 Dobsonian, Mintron PD2285-EX webcam. |
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