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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
Posts: 177
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I just got a 430EXII for christmas and I was wondering if there were any drawbacks to using a shutter speed faster than the cameras max. sync speed... I've been reading the manual and would like to know more about "high speed sync."
What are the cons of using high speed sync? Also, what is the secret to using fill flash outdoors? My main interest is motocross. Should I expose for the background/sky with the camera and use FEC to properly expose the riders? I'm using an XTi with a Canon 50 1.4 Thanks! |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central, Arkansas
Posts: 769
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Using high speed sync sucks battery power and isnt nearly as powerful as a normal flash.
Unless you are going to be able to get very close to the track then you wont have the flash power to use it as fill on high speed sync. I personally would not use flash for motorcycle stuff unless it was a shoot for a rider and we could recreate a scene as much as we wanted. When I shoot dirtbikes is one of the few times I use 6fps, which wont work with flash. You just never know which frame is going to be the best when someone is railing a berm. With MX you do have the sky background thing to deal with. I have shot lots of woods but no MX. The downside to shooting woods races is if its pretty dense coverage and a cloudy day sometimes you can struggle to get 1/500th. That wont be a problem for MX. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
Posts: 177
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I'll be on the track... I can get as close as I want.
My XTi only does 3 FPS, which really isn't that fast. |
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#4 |
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Cream of the Crop
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You have the fill idea correct. Just keep in mind that flash range is dramatically reduced with high speed sync.
As to using flash during a race - I have no idea as to the impact. |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
Posts: 177
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I'll just be shooting practice for now... But I'm going to get my dad to fire the flash at me when I'm riding just to make sure it's not too distracting
The races at my local track are all at nighttime... So I'm not even beginning to think about how hard that would be right now lol. Thanks guys! |
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#6 |
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Cream of the Crop
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I would suspect that flash at night during a race might put you in a bad light....
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
Posts: 177
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The local "pro" that covers all of the races always uses it... His photos don't really come out too good though... He's taken many pictures of me at night and I've never noticed the flash.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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I shoot drag racing. Experienced drivers tell me they usually don't notice the flash after the lights come down. I started using studio flash off to the side a couple of years ago. I was really concerned that these would be a great distraction. The drivers tell me they are even less of a distraction than my camera mounted Speedlight. However, they don't like any kind of flash while they are staging or waiting for the lights to come down. Not a problem, since that isn't the best time to shoot anyhow. If you are shooting at night, don't bother with HSS. Unless you have the brightest ambient lights imaginable, it will be easy to overpower them with flash depending on how far you are from the subject. Our track is not the brightest, but I can shoot at ISO 800 at f/5.6 at 1/200 or even 1/60 with no signs of ghosting.
I have used HSS as fill for daytime pictures of drag racing. It works, again depending on distance. Just don't expect to fire off a rapid string of images. Our track is aligned running south to north, so at the beginning and end of the season, the sides of the cars can burn out with glare while the grills are in deep shadow. Fill flash can help that a bit. The main deal is to just get out there and practice. |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central, Arkansas
Posts: 769
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Yea if you are shooting at night dont worry about HSS. Set to your max highest sync and roll with it. The flash will dominate the exposure and freeze the action.
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#10 | |
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Member
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Quote:
__________________
Canon 40D, Canon 20D, Panasonic FZ-30, Canon 17-40L, Canon 70-300 IS, Canon 85 1.8, Canon 50 1.8 MK I, Canon 550 EX flash. Wishing for 135L |
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#11 |
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Cream of the Crop
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He's saying set you maximum flash sync speed on the camera and let the flash do the work.
1/250 on the 20D, 1/200 on the 300D. |
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#12 |
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Member
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Here's a great article on max sync speed:
http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/2...13/max-it-out/ Actually, the whole site is great with lots of very well written articles.
__________________
Ray: Canon 5DII / 30D / 24-70L / 85 1.8 / Alien Bees 800 / Canon Speedlites |
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Behind a lens somewhere
Posts: 415
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This is not entirely true. The flash duration for 5XX Series flashes is approximately 1/750 of a second. Therefore, if you are not panning correctly, or if the subject is approaching you directly, you can still get motion blur. Depending on the speed of the subject of course.
__________________
You can only fish for so long before you gotta throw a stick of dynamite in the water. www.RedlineEventPhoto.com www.modelmayhem.com/1278348 |
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#14 | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central, Arkansas
Posts: 769
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Quote:
Now if we want to pick apart **** with theoretical situations then you are right. There are instances when it wont freeze the action. I totally agree with you that if I had the camera on a tripod and was shooting a macro shot of the carburetor as the bike flew passed at 60mph then yea.. it might not freeze the action. However, if you want to pick something apart. Have a go at this article. http://www.waynesthisandthat.com/flashdurations.html |
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#15 | |
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Cream of the Crop
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Quote:
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