Photographing a solar eclipse

[aarons]

Has anyone here photographed a solar eclipse before? There is one this summer over Asia, and we're thinking of going. I would like to travel light (no scope). I was thinking of taking a telephoto (not yet purchased) and tripod. Would moon shots be a good way to practice? The sun and moon are the same size in the sky... What about using filters? I'm pretty new to photography - any tips would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

[MidnightSun]

Originally Posted by aarons

Has anyone here photographed a solar eclipse before? There is one this summer over Asia, and we're thinking of going. I would like to travel light (no scope). I was thinking of taking a telephoto (not yet purchased) and tripod. Would moon shots be a good way to practice? The sun and moon are the same size in the sky... What about using filters? I'm pretty new to photography - any tips would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

You'll definitely need a solar filter and a way to project the image in order to be on target. I never shot the sun just with a camera, but of course, don't look at it thru the viewfinder!

[SteveInNZ]

The general wisdom for your first Total Eclipse is not to try and photograph it. Go there to enjoy it and since you'll get hooked, you can photograph the next one.
But we've all been told not do things all our lives and invariably we do. I'm no different. I've been to one but it was totally clouded out. We're going to China for this one and taking cameras and things.

Have look for the NASA eclipse reports put out by Fred Espenak. NASA/TP-2008-214169 is the one for July's eclipse. They are a wealth of information and have guidelines for lens size, exposure times, etc.

Steve.

[hollis_f]

For the partial phases you'll need a solar filter. For my 100-400 I made one using Baader Astrofilm between two UV filters - just make sure there are no gaps round the edges.

You'll want something 300mm or more, 400mm is preferable. I'd have like to use a 400mm f5.6 L. You'll also want a decent tripod and a remote shutter release.

During the partial phase you can get some shots of the Sun, but also take some 'atmosphere' shots of the location. That'll need a second body or a P&S.

Once you get close to totality things get really hectic. You have to remember to remove the Solar Filter and to change the manual settings (you'll be wanting to shoot in 'm' mode). As the Sun disappears prepare for your brain to go completely out of control. I'd carefully planned a series of shots with different exposure values. That went totally out of the window as I stood there with my mouth going up and down with strange noises coming out of it.

After a time (which felt like 10 seconds, or 10 hours - but probably the former) I realised I was leaning on my camera and something told me that I was supposed to be doing something with it. I had just enough working brain left to ensure everything was framed - then started rattling off shots, randomly changing the shutter speeds to expose for different bits. Every now and then I re-checked the framing and carried on with random exposures.

After a while I could drag my eye away from the heavens to look around me - and I wish I'd taken some shots of the people with me with a P&S. All too soon it was over - except for the sudden appearance of shadow bands - and I was hugging my friends and blubbing away like a litte baby. I was glad I'd taken shots of the partial phases before totality, as the euphoria afterwards meant that I just wasn't interested. If I were doing it again I'd take a small tripod with a video camera on it to shoot all the people without me having to touch it.

The worst thing was that all my images were rubbish. People who've seen them reckon they're good - and, if I say so myself, they compare well with other shots of eclipses I've seen. The problem is that every single eclipse photo or video I've ever seen is rubbish - compared to being there.

This was my second eclipse - the first was ruined by rain and cloud. But this was under totally cloudless skies from an amazing location (on top of a dam, looking down the valley). Now I'm worried about going to see another as I can't see how it could be better. Although I must admit that Cairns, Australia in 2012 will probably be enough to tempt me.

My random shooting method got a load of lousy images, but a few were OK. With over 7 minutes you should be able to both shoot it and experience it.

[aarons]

Thanks for your responses. It is a good point that in trying to get photos, I might miss experiencing the eclipse. Thanks for the reference steveinnz. And thanks for the anecdote, hollis_f - your photo is great! And your solar filter idea is a good one, too. With ~ six minutes of total eclipse, I should be able to both view it and have a try at photographing it (I hope!). Anyone else with thoughts or suggestions, please pass them on. Thanks!

[SteveInNZ]

It sounds stupid, but don't forget that it gets dark. Not pitch black - But you (and everyone else) aren't dark adapted and are mostly looking up. You need to find the shutter release and at the same time, not stand on someones notebook or have your own tripod knocked over.

I agree with what hollis_f said about recording the surroundings and reactions. I took a dictaphone to the one I didn't see and even the reactions on that are memorable.

Steve.

[Madweasel]

One of the reasons a single shot is never as good as seeing the eclipse by eye is the huge dynamic range, which the eye can cope with but the camera can't. You could shoot all the way from 1s to 1/1000 at f/8 ISO200 and each shot will be a good one, showing different details. Then if you're good with Photoshop you could combine them into a single image that looks much more like the way the eye sees it.

Others are right though - don't try to do too much and give yourself time to look at the eclipse. It will be breathtaking. I watched a 2-minute one in 2006 and it was over in a flash. Be aware that as well as going dark it also goes cold.