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#1 |
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Going to local "battle of the bands" show tomorrow night.Ive been asked to get some shots for my buddy's band.Ive only been shooting for a month now so still got alot to learn.I'll be taking my 40d w/50mm1.8,35-80mm.
Does anybody have any tips for what settings i should use?Im assuming i cant use flash and its going to be a low-light situation. Thanks
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eos 40d gripped,75-300mm/35-80mm/50mm1.8/28-105mm |
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#2 |
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high ISO, 1600 if need be. don't worry about the grain, comes with the territory.
use the 50mm. use it at f1.8. use a slower shutter speed, 1/50 or faster depending on the light. don't drop below 1/focal length shoot RAW. shoot in burst mode. bring a big memory card, or lots of little ones. some people shoot in bracketing mode, others just shoot in burst, personal preference. I like plain old burst mode. don't use your flash. if the lighting is horrid, make the shots B&W in photoshop/lightroom/aperature/canon software/etc. good luck.
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Canon 50D; Battery Grip; Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8; Canon 50mm f/1.8; Canon 430 Speedlight; website Flickr Facebook philbondphotography@gmail.com |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
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When I shoot bands I usually use the 50 or the Tamron 17-50. The 50 gets great shots. Leave flash at home, if there are a lot of lights, I just test meter until I get exposures that work and set the ISO (usually 1200-1600) and leave the App at 1.8 or 2ish and have fun. Once you get exposures that are in the ball park, I find that they dont waiver far from that.
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Orlando Wedding Photographer Gear List "Those are some mighty fine pots and pans you have, they must make a great dinner! |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
Posts: 808
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And others shoot single frames, in order to choose the moments to phtograph rather than relying on luck.
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#5 | |
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Quote:
I am shooting moments too... but I've found that sometimes the moment you are shooting isn't as good as the moment or 2 directly before or after. Especially with high motion (kicking, jumping, head banging, etc. ) Burst lets me get the moment I was going for, but with the 5 or 6 moments before and after to compare and contrast.
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Canon 50D; Battery Grip; Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8; Canon 50mm f/1.8; Canon 430 Speedlight; website Flickr Facebook philbondphotography@gmail.com |
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#6 |
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Agreed and I will also delete an unusable image rather than trying to salvage a bad image by making it B&W or clouding it up with PS.
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Canon 30D - Tamron f/2.8 28-75 - Canon 50mm f/1.4 - 85mm f/1.8 - Canon 70-200 f/4 - Canon 430ex - Slik Pro 330dx Legs - Slik Ball Head 800 - Vivitar, Novatron, Alienbee And a partridge in a pear tree |
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#7 | |
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Quote:
YMMV
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Canon 30D - Tamron f/2.8 28-75 - Canon 50mm f/1.4 - 85mm f/1.8 - Canon 70-200 f/4 - Canon 430ex - Slik Pro 330dx Legs - Slik Ball Head 800 - Vivitar, Novatron, Alienbee And a partridge in a pear tree |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 36
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As far as AF modes go, is it wise to leave AI Servo on rather than One Shot or AI Focus?
Also, should I spot meter on the subject rather than allowing nearby lights to throw off the exposure? |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 33
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i've had luck using spot meter... but even so, shooting in manual is so much more reliable.
I'd perhaps keep it in one shot -- relying on the AI Servo is at times unreliable because of the lack of contrast for the AF system to work in. The camera could be taking the shot way before a focus lock was acquired, hence giving you a false sense of security... if you shoot in One Shot, you'd get confirmation that you've acquired focus lock. |
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#10 |
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Moderator
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I use AiServo mostly, unless light is really low. In that case OneShot is more reliable.
My camera doesn't offer AiFocus AF (it's a 1D2). That should give you a hint If it would offer it, I'd program it out in a PFn, since IMO it's useless.
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