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Thread started 23 Jul 2009 (Thursday) 22:48
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The Film Thread (Red Ring not Required) A place for Analog Photography Nuts to Talk

 
NebrGuy
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Joined Nov 2010
Nebraska
Jan 07, 2018 09:15 |  #5176

Scottboarding wrote in post #18535268 (external link)
To those who develop their own black and white film, what was the starting cost of it all? For the third time my local "pro" lab has severely underdeveloped my film and I'm pretty fed up with it. Just looking for roughly how much the start up cost would be. Thanks everyone!

I just started doing it myself this fall. Our local photo store is expensive, but since the big guys won't ship chemicals in the U.S., it was the only option I knew of at the time. That said, I do want to keep them in business so I probably would have still bought from them.

So the cost for me was about $25 for a tank that held 2 rolls of 135 or 1 roll of 120. The chemistry was roughly $55 (d-76, fixer, stop and photo-flo). I had film clips and measuring cylinders from my dad's darkroom days.

Then the extras and this is where I probably went overboard. I stepped into the kitchen section of the local big box store and bought 3 plastic pitchers for mixing and labeled each, 3 rubber coated whisks and labeled each, 3 funnels (you get the idea). Maybe $25 to $30.

I went and bought nine 32 oz bottles of hydrogen peroxide (brown bottles). Total was about $9

Grand Total for me was somewhere in the ballpark of $90 to $100.


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K ­ Soze
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Joined Dec 2011
Jan 07, 2018 09:18 as a reply to post 18535268 |  #5177

I don't remember the cost of it all and there are lots of different options of kit. I can tell you it is very cheep once you are set up and the feeling of developing your own is second only to printing your own pictures on photo paper.

Look around for used gear, sometimes you find people giving it away.


I try to make art by pushing buttons

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Britania757
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Joined Feb 2008
Chicago, IL
Jan 07, 2018 13:36 |  #5178

K Soze wrote in post #18535506 (external link)
I don't remember the cost of it all and there are lots of different options of kit. I can tell you it is very cheep once you are set up and the feeling of developing your own is second only to printing your own pictures on photo paper.

Look around for used gear, sometimes you find people giving it away.

I second looking for used gear. I've seen entire setups for dirt cheap on Craigslist in the Chicago area at least. All up cost for me was about $200 but that was because I ended up buying things I didn't need.


http://flickr.com/phot​os/24547179@N07/ (external link)
Canon Elan IIe, Fuji GW690III Fuji X100T, TCL-X100, Fuji 50mm f2, Canon 100mm f2, Canon 50mm f1.8, Yongnuo 35mm

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Alveric
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Joined Jan 2011
Canada
Post has been last edited 8 days ago by Alveric. 2 edits done in total.
Jan 07, 2018 14:07 |  #5179

I can't remember exactly how much my initial expense was. I was a bit tempted by the kits, but all of them came with plastic tanks. In the end, I chose to assemble my own kit, buying some stuff from B&H and the glassware at my university's science stores.

I ended up buying:

1x Samigon Stainless Steel Tank (external link)
1x Hewes 35mm Reel (external link) (for the actual film).
1x Paterson Changing Bag (external link)
1x Cheap Kalt steel reel (external link) (not for film, as these reels are tricky to load film to them, just to hold the Hewes reel in place inside the tank).
1x Kaiser film retriever (external link)
1x cheap Kentmere sacrificial roll to learn how to load the film outside the bag.
1x 250ml glass graduated tube
1x 100ml glass graduated tube
1x 25ml glass graduated tube
1x 1L glass beaker
3x 500ml glass beakers (developer, stop bath, and fixer)
1x FISHERbrand red spirit thermometer (external link)
2x 500ml amber bottles (didn't end up using them as I use liquid developers, but might be useful if you use powder ones)
1x 1L amber bottle (for the Ilfotol)
1x safety goggles that can be worn over spectacles

That's what I've been using. In addition to some clips to hang the film that the lady at my local shop kindly gave me.

I use my C-stand and a grip arm to hang the film to dry, so that any dripping falls into the tub, but I guess you can use a line or something else.


'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
Why 'The Histogram' Sux (external link)

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thc1979
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Joined Jun 2014
East of England
Jan 08, 2018 10:38 |  #5180

Scottboarding wrote in post #18535268 (external link)
To those who develop their own black and white film, what was the starting cost of it all? For the third time my local "pro" lab has severely underdeveloped my film and I'm pretty fed up with it. Just looking for roughly how much the start up cost would be. Thanks everyone!

Are you sure they under-developed it?

It would cost well under £100 (UK) to get all the basic kit needed to start doing it yourself including chemicals


Canon EOS 1D X Mark II | Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Tough TG-4 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, TS-E 24.0mm f/3.5 L II, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF 16-35 f/4 L IS USM, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC | Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Dedicated flash ST-E3 RT controller , Speedlite 600EX-RT | Yongnuo YN 600EX RT

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Scottboarding
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Joined May 2016
Jan 08, 2018 15:43 |  #5181

thc1979 wrote in post #18536290 (external link)
Are you sure they under-developed it?

It would cost well under £100 (UK) to get all the basic kit needed to start doing it yourself including chemicals

I asked them to push tri-x to 1600, and I shot the first part of the roll at 800, and when I was scanning them I had to push the midpoint in the software as far as it would go. The ones I shot at 1600 were nothing but mush. A lot of the photos I knew wouldn't come out well (due to the nature of how pushing works) but the ones that should've looked good didn't. The grain structure looks far more like the last roll I had them develop at box speed than it does another roll I had them push to 1600 a few weeks ago.


Olympus E-M1 - Mitakon 25mm f0.95 - Olympus 25mm f1.8 - Olympus 17mm f1.8
Nikon FM2n - Nikon Ai-s 28mm f2.8 - Nikon Ai 50mm f1.4 - Voigtlander 40mm f2 SLii
Ricoh GRii

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thc1979
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Joined Jun 2014
East of England
Jan 08, 2018 16:08 as a reply to Scottboarding's post |  #5182

At least in doing it yourself you’ve only got yourself to blame and it’s cost you very little. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with black and white though, although I’ve managed it a few times!


Canon EOS 1D X Mark II | Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Tough TG-4 | Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, TS-E 24.0mm f/3.5 L II, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF 16-35 f/4 L IS USM, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC | Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Dedicated flash ST-E3 RT controller , Speedlite 600EX-RT | Yongnuo YN 600EX RT

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edmidlifecrisis
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Joined Jun 2014
Palm Beach County, FL
Jan 08, 2018 19:25 |  #5183

thc1979 wrote in post #18536536 (external link)
At least in doing it yourself you’ve only got yourself to blame and it’s cost you very little. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with black and white though, although I’ve managed it a few times!

WE all have!!!!


Ed
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https://500px.com/edtl (external link)
Instagram @elsdvm90

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K ­ Soze
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Joined Dec 2011
Jan 08, 2018 20:06 |  #5184

Scottboarding wrote in post #18536520 (external link)
I asked them to push tri-x to 1600, and I shot the first part of the roll at 800, and when I was scanning them I had to push the midpoint in the software as far as it would go. The ones I shot at 1600 were nothing but mush. A lot of the photos I knew wouldn't come out well (due to the nature of how pushing works) but the ones that should've looked good didn't. The grain structure looks far more like the last roll I had them develop at box speed than it does another roll I had them push to 1600 a few weeks ago.


Check out stand or semi-stand development. It is like auto ISO for film. I develop my film like that all the time and love the way it works.


I try to make art by pushing buttons

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Scottboarding
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Joined May 2016
Jan 08, 2018 21:54 |  #5185

K Soze wrote in post #18536683 (external link)
Check out stand or semi-stand development. It is like auto ISO for film. I develop my film like that all the time and love the way it works.

I'm looking at Diafine right now and it seems nice. Any film is three minutes in Solution A, then three minutes in Solution B. I shoot a number of different films, and I could develop them all at the same time which would be awesome. I took a darkroom class last semester, so I know how to do it, it's just down to where I can do it, and how much the initial cost will be.

On a side note, does anyone know if it's safe to do in a non-metal bathtub? I believe mine is either acrylic or fiberglass and I'm not sure how those materials will hold up.


Olympus E-M1 - Mitakon 25mm f0.95 - Olympus 25mm f1.8 - Olympus 17mm f1.8
Nikon FM2n - Nikon Ai-s 28mm f2.8 - Nikon Ai 50mm f1.4 - Voigtlander 40mm f2 SLii
Ricoh GRii

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K ­ Soze
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Joined Dec 2011
Jan 09, 2018 08:32 |  #5186

Scottboarding wrote in post #18536746 (external link)
I'm looking at Diafine right now and it seems nice. Any film is three minutes in Solution A, then three minutes in Solution B. I shoot a number of different films, and I could develop them all at the same time which would be awesome. I took a darkroom class last semester, so I know how to do it, it's just down to where I can do it, and how much the initial cost will be.

On a side note, does anyone know if it's safe to do in a non-metal bathtub? I believe mine is either acrylic or fiberglass and I'm not sure how those materials will hold up.


With stand development you can develop two different fils of different speeds in the same tank. You can even push or pull different frames of film on the same roll.


I try to make art by pushing buttons

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Britania757
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Joined Feb 2008
Chicago, IL
Jan 10, 2018 16:18 |  #5187

Delta 400

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/39614039131_95db08d314_b.jpg
[IMAGE'S LINK: https://flic.kr/p/23my​iGF] (external link)Havana (external link) by Regan Scott (external link), on Flickr

http://flickr.com/phot​os/24547179@N07/ (external link)
Canon Elan IIe, Fuji GW690III Fuji X100T, TCL-X100, Fuji 50mm f2, Canon 100mm f2, Canon 50mm f1.8, Yongnuo 35mm

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Scottboarding
Senior Member
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Joined May 2016
Jan 13, 2018 20:42 |  #5188

I've been dreaming of a Leica and 50mm Summicron for a long time. This isn't it, but it's close AND the lens is faster!

IMAGE: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4702/27898123159_81c9cb7e4a_z.jpg

Olympus E-M1 - Mitakon 25mm f0.95 - Olympus 25mm f1.8 - Olympus 17mm f1.8
Nikon FM2n - Nikon Ai-s 28mm f2.8 - Nikon Ai 50mm f1.4 - Voigtlander 40mm f2 SLii
Ricoh GRii

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