Track Photos. Any Tips For Next Time?

[red8771]

I Was Shooting In Tv (Shutter Speed Priority) Set To 1/2500. ISO Auto.
The Quality Could Be Better But I Was Shooting Like 100 yds Away For Most Of Them.
And People Kept Walking Into The Shots.
Any Tips? Suggestions?

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 5

Photo 6

[4Bucks]

These all look a bit soft. What lens?
First suggestion based on how soft these look is to get closer. Others will be able to offer more once they know what equipment you are using.

[red8771]

I Have A PowerShot SX120 IS. Canon Zoom Lens 10 x IS 6.0-60.0mm 1:2.8-4.3.

[SnapLocally.com]

I suggest not getting your hopes up when you're using a point and shoot. They're not bad shots, but I don't think with that camera they're going to get much better, either.

[43 North]

Originally Posted by red8771

I Have A PowerShot SX120 IS. Canon Zoom Lens 10 x IS 6.0-60.0mm 1:2.8-4.3.

There is your problem.....

[AdamLewis]

Originally Posted by 4Bucks

These all look a bit soft. What lens?
First suggestion based on how soft these look is to get closer. Others will be able to offer more once they know what equipment you are using.

Originally Posted by red8771

I Have A PowerShot SX120 IS. Canon Zoom Lens 10 x IS 6.0-60.0mm 1:2.8-4.3.

Ouch. I was originally thinking the same thing about the pictures all looking kinda soft and it looked like the were cropped kinda far for a picture from an SLR. Now that I know its from a P&S, it makes sense

Im afraid there just isnt going to be much you can do really. Even a big fancy P&S camera is still a P&S camera and still has all the same limitations of all the other P&S cameras. Best I can tell you is to not zoom all the way out but instead try to move closer. That lens is probably its softest at the longest setting. Additionally, by you moving closer, youre automatically making your DOF smaller PLUS youre changing the ratio of Cam->Subject:Subject->Background distance which will also help you blur that background out. With respect to backgrounds, try to get in positions where the background isnt quite so busy. This not only means moving left and right but it could also mean moving up and down. For that camera, you may also want to try shooting in Av so you can make sure your aperture is as wide-open as it can go. If your shutter speed is too slow, just up the ISO until you get it where you want. In all actuality, if youre shooting in daylight like that, you can really get away with just dialing in the manual setting and shooting away.

[Zivnuska]

Welcome to the forum. Keep shooting and keep posting. Improve on your ability to get good captures with your point and shoot, then use those skills if and when you choose to upgrade your camera. Get the best images your equipment can get. A great photog with simple equipment can and will get better images than a beginner with sophisticated gear. As you improve, you will appreciate what features are important with better cameras/lenses.

1. The first rule of sports photography is to shoot faces. In this shot, all we see are backsides. The face and particularly the eyes, tell the story. Think of where you can position yourself to see the faces of the runners.

2. As much as possible, fill the frame with your subject. This photo was taken too far away, has the subject's face covered by the pole, and has way too many distraction. Check with the AD and see if you can gain access to the field. If so, you will be much closer and that will help you fill the frame with the vaulter. Also, by being closer, there will be fewer people in the way of your shot and you will be able to shoot up toward the subject. That will help 'clean up' the background.

3. Sports photos need action, the so called 'peak action.' Look at the two runners on the left of the image. They look bored. Capture the faces at the hand off of the baton or as the new runner starts to accelerate into the next leg of the race.

4. This is better. There is action. The background is much cleaner. There is only one extra person in the image. That's the idea. Next time, get closer still and try to position yourself to see the face of the jumper. That can be tough and each jumper is different. Watch them in warm ups to evaluate their technique to notice where you can see their face during the jump and also what TIME to expose the image to see their face.

5. Better, better, better! Nice action and nice timing. Now imagine this same shot taken from just beyond the landing zone, looking into the face of the competitor at this same moment. The side support won't be in the way, you'll see full face, and if you are closer, sitting on the ground looking up, the background will be cleaner.

6. In a few moments, this athlete will be heading down the runway. Capture his intensity with a good face shot. Getting low by sitting or kneeling will add drama to the image by making him look larger than life.
__________

Again, welcome to the forum. You've started your sports photography career. Keep after it. Improve a little each time. One saying I like is from photographer Scott Kelby:

"It's just a little thing, but they're all little things."

Another is:

“If your pictures aren't good enough, you aren't close enough.”
Robert Capa


Good luck. Shoot tight, crop tighter. Post your images. Evaluate the track shots of others on the forum. Ask yourself, how did he/she position himself, does the image have face, focus, action, the "object" used in the event (if there is one), and does it tell the story by itself. What images make you go "WOW" and how/why do they do it?

Phil

[Biffbradford]

+1 all great points. Get in there, rub elbows with the athletes, Get in their face. Then you'll get some good stuff. I was at a bike race last summer and a former army photographer started up a conversation with me. He was shooting with a little camera that fit in the palm of his hand ... the photos looked awesome! Keep trying to learn how to use the gear that you've got.

[bpaulette]

These would be reeeeealy soft (if shooting on a dslr). Pretty decent for a point n shoot