So since April, i have learned the following.
1. Although the satechi remotes are looking like they are still good with blinking lights, I must change the batteries out before they stop blinking as fresh batteries make a huge difference in getting everything to sync.
2. I have been playing some more with SPM (Stereo Photo Maker) and as of right now my basic procedures are use SPM to create the 3D stereo images, then take to 3D Composer to edit them (If I had a polarized monitor instead of NVidia shutter system apparently I could see 3D in SPM as I edit) and after editing then I batch convert to jpg extension, run a Photoshop action to add a 3D logo and then batch convert them back to jps extension (if needed in stereo).
After finding I was at least 3 versions behind on SPM from some discussions on a dedicated stereography forum, I updated to latest version and discovered I could pull from different folders (with 3D Composer I have to have left and right in same folder). It is much easier to sync up the images if the cameras missed one with two folders and SPM will process everything, while 3D composer actually checks first to make sure they are actually a decent 3D set first.
However, it is much easier to actually edit the shot if you can be viewing it in 3D stereo while doing so.
I have also learned better how to get Pinnacle Studio 16 to create a 3D stereo movie. I prefer manuals to video tutorials (yes I am archaic that way) but I actually sat through two videos just so I could figure it out. I have used Stereo Movie Maker, but it has issues with certain formats, while Pinnacle will recognize the video direct from the Canon Camera without any conversion.
3. Must get vertical alignment perfect for video, unless it is only for the computer. Horizontal is not as critical. While this has been true for stills, stills can be cropped easily, video can technically be cropped, but you lose some quality with resizing back to the display format,
4. Finally really tiny shiny objects are less bad than large shiny objects.