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#121 | |
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Like these two shots: 24-70mm f/2.8L 85mm f/1.2L
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1D MkIII | 550D w/grip & ML| EF 70-200mm f2.8L| EF 24-105mm f4L IS | 430EXii | EF-S 18-55mm | EF 50mm f1.8 | Lowepro Toploader Pro 75 AW |
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#122 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 19
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550D | 18-55 IS |
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#123 | |
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Hehehe! Thanks a bunch! I was wondering how she took some yellow out, as well! I downloaded GIMP last night, and was toggling with some adjustments.....
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Canon T2i Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Canon 50mm f/1.8 Canon 28-70mm f/2.8 |
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#124 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: WI, USA
Posts: 346
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On Gimp... Go to Colors -> Color Balance... play with the sliders on Adjust Color levels.
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50D | Tamron 17-50 VC | Canon 50 f/1.4 | 70-200 f/4L IS | 100 2.8 | 100-400 L | YN560ii |
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#125 |
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Thank you for sharing all of this wonderful information.
My questions are about focusing. I find that when I use f/2.8 I run the risk of having one eye slightly out of focus which ruins the portrait. I tend then to always use f/5.6 to be safe and of course don't get as much blur as I'd like with the background, as a result. 1. Where do you place your focus point, on one eye or between the eyes? 2. Do you focus and reframe with children or use the appropriate individual focus points of the viewfinder rather than the centre focus point ? 3. I wondered too if perhaps I am not keeping my camera parallel enough when I'm taking the picture and that is why both eyes are not equally sharp? Tricky when the kids are moving about outdoors. Any advice here would be appreciated
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#126 | |||||||
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The photo of my daughter taking a photo of her doll : Yes this is the distance I use if the strobe light is on - and I can switch between my 85 1.2L & my 24-70 2.8L. The reason there's a good distance between the light and my subject is so I can use f/2.3 or 2.8 without my light blowing out the subject - the light is turned to the lowest power and is far away enough for me to still be able to use it as off camera flash and use wide apetures to give me my blurred backgrounds and take away that hard harsh oversharp look that studio lights can give - which I don't like on babies When using just the light from the window, I bring my subjects closer & use the 24-70. hope this helps Quote:
I used this exif data viewer : http://regex.info/exif.cgi Quote:
Then i selected layer - hue &saturation - clicked the colour picker - clicked on his chin where there was colour cast - then adjusted until the colour cast was toned down a little. Then flattened image. Quote:
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So this photo - she is slightly side on - the focus was on her left eye - or the "front" eye in this shot you can see one is clear than the other, but it still looks fine because of the angle. This was shot on 2.8 (and in AV - I was having a lazy day) so I expect some softness in the other eye and in other parts of the photo - though I do like the look it gives. If you bump to 3.2 you will still get nice smooth backgrounds, but your overall focus point will be a bigger area and you are more likley to get both eyes in focus. ![]() Quote:
If all else fails, use the centre focus point lock the focus and recompose. They say that the sweet spot on the 24-70 is at 50mm 3.2 with the centre focus toggled, and I have tried this - and it's true ! Quote:
Try the sweet spot settings - keep your shutter speed around 1/200 and post some samples
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5D MKII gripped 30D gripped 24-70 2.8L 85 1.2L 50 1.4 580exII Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Seona...24719434222672
Last edited by mercersmoments : 2nd of November 2010 (Tue) at 16:10. |
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#127 |
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Hi Seona in the photo of the cute little boy that you took the yellow out, how does one avoid having too much yellow? often my photo's will have too much of one colour usually an orange tinge. is it just because I'm choosing auto white balance?
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#128 |
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Hehehehe! That's my son, Caden! I'm a proud mama!
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Canon T2i Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Canon 50mm f/1.8 Canon 28-70mm f/2.8 |
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#129 | |
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Senior Member
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I had a child in a green t shirt and he ended up with a green shaddow under his chin, I had to use layers in PS shop tone it down. try shooting a white bit of paper and then setting your camera, using the white image to set as your custom WB. See if that helps you
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5D MKII gripped 30D gripped 24-70 2.8L 85 1.2L 50 1.4 580exII Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Seona...24719434222672
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#130 | |
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#131 | |
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Regarding lighting color, one trick I've found is to always shoot something white or gray, full-frame if I'm somewhere with strange light (elemetary school cafeteria, for instance). I just switch to manual focus for the shot, fill the frame with a gray surface, and shoot (out of focus is probably better). Then, when I get home to DPP, the first thing I do is go to that shot and adjust the RGB levels so that all three of the peaks perfectly overlap, which makes it "perfectly gray." Then copy that recipe to clipboard, and paste the recipe to every image I shot at that location. All the faces and clothes now look completely natural. Of course, this requires shooting in RAW... One thing though, I've found that there are color casts that I want to keep. Children blowing out a candle in low light, for instance. The yellow coloring is just how it's supposed to look
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1D MkIII | 550D w/grip & ML| EF 70-200mm f2.8L| EF 24-105mm f4L IS | 430EXii | EF-S 18-55mm | EF 50mm f1.8 | Lowepro Toploader Pro 75 AW |
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#132 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 15
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Thank you! I love the 24-70 f2.8, too.
May I ask one more question? Regarding the bean bag chair: you said you folded it over on itself. How so? I'm having a hard time envisioning it. Thank you so much for being so generous!
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Canon XTI, 24-70 f2.8L, 18-55 (kit lens), Nifty Fifty, 580EX II |
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#133 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Florida
Posts: 160
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Hi, ! 2 questions. Please tell me what you mean by a "crop camera". I've heard the term, but don't know what that really means.
and. when you say you toggle the focus point to the eye area , is this something you can only do on manual settings. My husband shoots with the auto focus most of the time and he says if he were to focus on the eye area, the rest of the pic would be out of focus? so confused thx |
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#134 |
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what a great thread! thx Seona for sharing!
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#135 | |||||
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Full-frame_digital_SLR Not to sure what camera your husband is using, but on my 5D2 I can toggle the focus in all modes except the green square (which you should never use cause that's naughty, lol) Quote:
Shot on f/2 natural light - under a tree, no extra lighting/reflectors. exif here : Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II Lens: EF50mm f/1.2L USM Exposure: Manual exposure, 1/350 sec, f/2, ISO 200 Focus: At 65cm ![]() I always toggle to the eye area when focusing - sharp eyes are very important to me, it's the first thing I notice about people when I photograph more than one person I use a larger f/ stop number - or smaller apeture - less light. Like this photo - I used the centre focus point and f/4 - used one 500 watt strobe with softbox set to low - and 1.2 meters away from the people - with natural light from a window to their right Exif here : Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II Lens: EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM Shot at 45 mm Exposure: Manual exposure, 1/125 sec, f/4, ISO 160 Focus: At 1.9m ![]() Quote:
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5D MKII gripped 30D gripped 24-70 2.8L 85 1.2L 50 1.4 580exII Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Seona...24719434222672
Last edited by mercersmoments : 3rd of November 2010 (Wed) at 16:25. |
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