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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 09 Dec 2010 (Thursday) 01:15
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Using a single strobe (NOT hotshoe flash)- creative examples - mark II

 
nes_matt
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blorky wrote in post #14045316external link
"i like everything but the background, its so busy and distracts the eye. " Yep - no options there, unfortunately - shooting down at 1.8, I think, but all other angles in the gym would have put my gear in the mirror. Pouring rain outside.

BTW, you shot this at F3.5, not 1.8 if you look at the EXIF data. I wondered why the DOF was so large when you shot at 1.8... turns out you didn't!

Mar 08, 2012 11:36

Canon 6D & Rebel T1i | Tokina 11-16 F2.8 | Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 EX DC Macro | Nifty-Fifty |85mm f1.8 | Canon 24-105 F4 | Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM
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Going ­ Baroque
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22" beauty dish

Mar 08, 2012 12:07 as a reply to nes_matt's post 31 minutes earlier.



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blorky
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nes_matt wrote in post #14049948external link
BTW, you shot this at F3.5, not 1.8 if you look at the EXIF data. I wondered why the DOF was so large when you shot at 1.8... turns out you didn't!

DOH!

gonzogolf wrote in post #14049706external link
Darkening the room by using a faster shutter speed can be done independently of the flash exposure.

nes_matt wrote in post #14049933external link
Speeding this up to 1/200th would drop the BG by about a stop. That combined with a stop or so in aperture would have helped.

Yep - I got this - I was working to make the ambient show more so the falloff from light to dark on her face wasn't so harsh. I clearly got the aperture wrong, but was working below the synch speed in order to pull in more ambient light.

Thanks to you both for commenting on this - I'm here to learn and appreciate the time you're taking to pass along your expertise.

Mar 08, 2012 15:50



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MakisM1
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blorky wrote in post #14051557external link
DOH!

Yep - I got this - I was working to make the ambient show more so the falloff from light to dark on her face wasn't so harsh. I clearly got the aperture wrong, but was working below the synch speed in order to pull in more ambient light.

Thanks to you both for commenting on this - I'm here to learn and appreciate the time you're taking to pass along your expertise.

Are you shooting with the flash on manual or ETTL?

Mar 08, 2012 15:56

Gerry
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blorky
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MakisM1 wrote in post #14051598external link
Are you shooting with the flash on manual or ETTL?

ETTL for that session b/c I was trying to cut down on the number of things to pay attention to, but have subsequently done everything on manual so as to get a better intuitive feel for how all of it works together.

Mar 08, 2012 16:01



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cbacarella
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Single strobe, bare. Me goofy around in my living room yesterday after dinner.

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Mar 08, 2012 16:08

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MakisM1
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blorky wrote in post #14051629external link
ETTL for that session b/c I was trying to cut down on the number of things to pay attention to, but have subsequently done everything on manual so as to get a better intuitive feel for how all of it works together.

ETTL does not allow you to control (easily) the power of the flash in the creative way you demand. Actually, you don't even know HOW MUCH power the flash is using.

It takes a little trial and error to control your flash on manual, but then you can have better control of your exposure.

If you had enough flash power left, you could up the aperture (say f8 or f11) which would reduce the influence of ambient light, so the background would show less and the photo would become more dramatic.

Mar 08, 2012 16:13

Gerry
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All shoot with a Elinchrom Quadra RX boomed with a maxilite/fireball

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Mar 08, 2012 16:29

Name is Scott

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abbadon31
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Mar 08, 2012 16:29

Name is Scott

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Used one Yongnuo 565EX with a 1/2 CTO gel.

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Mar 08, 2012 16:43

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Damian75
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abbadon31 wrote in post #14051810external link
All shoot with a Elinchrom Quadra RX boomed with a maxilite/fireball
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These are all great but 7 is amazing love it.

Mar 08, 2012 18:15

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blorky
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MakisM1 wrote in post #14051705external link
ETTL does not allow you to control (easily) the power of the flash in the creative way you demand. Actually, you don't even know HOW MUCH power the flash is using.

It takes a little trial and error to control your flash on manual, but then you can have better control of your exposure.

Agreed re: the value of manual, which is why I'm going that route for the foreseeable future.

MakisM1 wrote in post #14051705external link
If you had enough flash power left, you could up the aperture (say f8 or f11) which would reduce the influence of ambient light, so the background would show less and the photo would become more dramatic.

This method also has the added advantage of justifying the case for buying more gear...

...in this case, a second flash setup for some fill from camera left.

Mar 08, 2012 19:41



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DanielMata
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i dont post much but here goes.


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Mar 08, 2012 20:51 as a reply to post 13719053

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Jaynez
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@abbadon31
Great shoots of the hooter girls

Mar 08, 2012 20:56

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Shiku
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gonzogolf wrote in post #14049409external link
Although you were sucessful in moving the flash off the camera thats only half the battle. The single light from the side can be a dramatic look, but it does nothing hear for your subject. You probably need to get the light closer to the camera axis, and use a reflector or something to get some fill on the shadowed side. Were you using any modifers (umbrella, softbox etc) at all?

You got it exactly right. All I did was buy a cable to move the flash off camera. No modifiers at all. I just bought the flash and the cable and these are my first pictures. I have a lot to learn and I am excited.

Thanks for your time to comment.

Mar 08, 2012 21:55



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Using a single strobe (NOT hotshoe flash)- creative examples - mark II
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