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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 01 Jan 2011 (Saturday) 10:45
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First shoot with Kacey Beauty dish

 
bobbyz
Cream of the Crop
16,897 posts
Joined Nov 2007

Bay Area, CA
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And dual speedlite bracket. Setup is more heavy than my QBox 24". I was able to use flexTT5 on both the flashes. I kept flexTT5 on hot shoe of my 550ex but for 580exII I used a small eTTL cord from Cheetah Stand and put the FlexTT5 on separate hot shoe location provided on Kacey's Dual Bracket (Picture coming).

Setup was real nice. Here is one quick shot.

IMAGE: http://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s1/v19/p122923432-5.jpg

One problem I ran into is that the beauty dish droops due to its weight on the bracket. I tighterned the tilt mechanism but it still droops. Any recommendations?

I also need to get some boom so I can have the light stand little more out of the frame. Right now I was moving the whole beauty dish away from the model and I would prefer it closer to the subject.
Jan 01, 2011 10:45

5dmk3, Sigma Art 35mm f1.4, 35L, 85L II, 24-70mm f2.8 II, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2

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tetrode
I am a walking repository of thoroughly useless information
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3,770 posts

Joined Jan 2006

New York
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bobbyz wrote in post #11552292 (external link)
...One problem I ran into is that the beauty dish droops due to its weight on the bracket. I tighterned the tilt mechanism but it still droops. Any recommendations?
...

I've had that problem on-and-off from day one with my Kacey bracket. With all of the weight cantilevered in front of the pivot point, it is occasionally difficult or impossible to apply enough torque to prevent the bracket from drooping. I've had extensive discussions with Jerry about this in the past.

Here are two solutions that work for me:

Replacing the stock bolt and ratchet handle with beefier components will solve 99.9% of the problem. After experimenting with several handles and bolts, this is what I've found that works:

IMAGE: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4579576374_4ef75f4431_o.jpg

To use a thicker bolt as I have done, the existing bolt hole does have to be drilled out and the square retention cutout must be slightly enlarged as well.

Another solution is to bypass the stock tilt mechanism entirely. There are a variety of ways to do this. Here's one version that uses a Photoflex heavy duty tilt bracket:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5207/5312834350_c6f9385e1f_o.jpg

Instead of using a tilt bracket as shown, you could use an Avenger D200 grip head instead. That will support a Volkswagen without slipping.

I believe Jerry offers a bracket option now that uses a grip head for positioning. You might want to contact him and ask.

Dave F.
Jan 01, 2011 11:04



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bobbyz
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
16,897 posts
Joined Nov 2007

Bay Area, CA
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Dave, in that 2nd shot using photoflex heavy duty adapter, how is the dual flash bracket attaching to the photoflex adapter? I am not DIY kind of guy so if this solution works I will look into it.

Jan 01, 2011 11:30

5dmk3, Sigma Art 35mm f1.4, 35L, 85L II, 24-70mm f2.8 II, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2

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tetrode
I am a walking repository of thoroughly useless information
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3,770 posts

Joined Jan 2006

New York
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bobbyz wrote in post #11552535 (external link)
Dave, in that 2nd shot using photoflex heavy duty adapter, how is the dual flash bracket attaching to the photoflex adapter? I am not DIY kind of guy so if this solution works I will look into it.

There isn't much DIY'ing involved. All you need to do this is an additional "L" arm from Jerry and a Manfrotto 014-14 adapter.

Here's an overall view of the DVM:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5312418967_66c139ea81_o.jpg

The Manfrotto adapter's 1/4-20 stud is inserted into the hole at the rear of the lower "L" arm and secured in place using a Stroboframe locking cold shoe. I used the cold shoe rather than a 1/4-20 nut because this way I have a convenient place to attach my PocketWizard Plus II.

Here's a closer view:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5313008192_5c6f610896_o.jpg

with a 5/8" receptor at the rear of the lower "L" arm there are many tilt options available. A common double-ended stud (http://www.adorama.com​/LTPCSR.html (external link)) will allow you to attach the Double Vertical Mount to any heavy-duty flash tilter such as the Photoflex shown in my previous post.

If your light stand has a long, Avenger-style stud on top, a better approach is to use an Avenger long double stud (http://www.adorama.com​/AEE250.html (external link)) or a length of 5/8" rod and an Avenger D200 grip head. This photo (pardon the snapshot quality) shows the DVM mounted on a length of 5/8" aluminum rod (from Home Depot) which is, in turn, inserted into a D200 grip head:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5313090744_d3b20da912_o.jpg

As I mentioned in my prior post, Jerry has a nice canned grip head-based solution that you might want to seriously consider.

Dave F.
Jan 01, 2011 12:29



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bobbyz
THREAD ­ STARTER
Cream of the Crop
16,897 posts
Joined Nov 2007

Bay Area, CA
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Thanks.

Jan 01, 2011 12:58

5dmk3, Sigma Art 35mm f1.4, 35L, 85L II, 24-70mm f2.8 II, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2

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First shoot with Kacey Beauty dish
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting

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