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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting
Thread started 06 Jan 2011 (Thursday) 01:09
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Blow Out, using Canon 5D Mark II in Studio

 
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Mary ­ G ­ Photo
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Hoping someone can help me with this. I have been shooting in my studio with my Canon 5D Mark II. I have a on camera flash and 3 studio strobes. Im using 24-135mm lense, Radio Triggers and a white backdrop. It seems no matter what my settings are, I have BLOW OUT. Causing all my image to look blown out on the screen. I have tried new lenses and settings, and this never seems to help.

If I changed my radio triggers for a diffent frenqincy, do you think this would help. Please let me know

Jan 06, 2011 01:09

Canon 5D Mark II & Two Canon 50D.
Canon 70-200IS L 2.8, Canon 24-70 L 2.8
Speedlite 530EX & 480 EX

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paradiddleluke
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an example picture with exif in-tact would make it a lot easier to assist you

Jan 06, 2011 01:14

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FJ ­ LOVE
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take the flash off your camera and just use your strobes, your flash is probably doing it, also turn down the strobes, try a higher aperature and make sure your in manual with a shutter speed of around 125, also check your using ISO 100 not 1600 or something :)

Jan 06, 2011 01:34

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Sam_M
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Need example with EXIF, what strobes, distance to subject, modifiers used, method of triggering, etc.

Jan 06, 2011 02:45

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Roy_W
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Couple of things come to mind,

Do you have a light meter, if so what are it's readings, have you measured the BG on it's own.
What ratio are you using between the backlights and the main lights ?
Which fstop are you working with ?
Why do you have on Camera flash - when you already have strobes. I am pretty sure that the on camera flash will definately be increasing the BG light?
How are your main lights orientated, do they also spill light onto the background ?
How are you lighting the BG, open strobes or with dishes/reflectors/modi​fiers ?

Cheers

Jan 06, 2011 03:13 as a reply to FJ LOVE's post 1 hour earlier.

5D MK11, 24-105L f/4, 135L f/2, 70-200L f/2.8 IS MKII
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drdiesel1
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What mode are you shooting in ?

Jan 06, 2011 05:04 as a reply to Roy_W's post 1 hour earlier.

Nikon D810 Nikon 50F/1.4G - Nikon 70-200F/2.8II
Canon 5DMKIII - Canon 24-105F/4L

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Benji
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When using studio strobes you must shoot in manual and you really should have a hand held light meter so you can adjust each light individually. The in camera meter is worthless for studio flash units, and the histogram is also nearly worthless for judging the correct exposure on the subject unless you are shooting them on an 18% gray background.

Benji

Jan 06, 2011 09:25



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Mary ­ G ­ Photo
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I have be shooting with my Canon 580 Ex 2 and strobes. I have them all tethered together by a radio trigger. I have a hard time lighting my subjects 100% with Strobes (3 Opus H150 Strobes with Modeling Light), so I have been using flash also.

I just got a light meter, and I am trying to figure it all out so far. I usually shoot in Program Mode, and I am learning Manual everyday. I will try to post a photo tomorrow, to show you what the blow out looks like. Its very random when it comes up. Thanks for all the imput.

Jan 06, 2011 23:06

Canon 5D Mark II & Two Canon 50D.
Canon 70-200IS L 2.8, Canon 24-70 L 2.8
Speedlite 530EX & 480 EX

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Dream ­ Merchant
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Mary G Photo wrote in post #11589544external link
I have be shooting with my Canon 580 Ex 2 and strobes. I have them all tethered together by a radio trigger. I have a hard time lighting my subjects 100% with Strobes (3 Opus H150 Strobes with Modeling Light), so I have been using flash also.

I just got a light meter, and I am trying to figure it all out so far. I usually shoot in Program Mode, and I am learning Manual everyday. I will try to post a photo tomorrow, to show you what the blow out looks like. Its very random when it comes up. Thanks for all the imput.

I suspect that's the main problem.

Unless you're using say 4 or 5 580s, when you mix an ETTL enabled unit with manually controlled units, anything can happen, exposure wise.

Set everything to MANUAL, including all the flash units, and set your aperture to what you need, and a manual speed of anything from 1/60 - 1/250. Doesn't really matter as the flash duration determines the 'shutter speed' so to speak ... unless you want motion blur, then you'll need to increase the ambient light(s) and set a slower shutter speed.

BTW, if you're mixing ambient with flash, and/or using CC or SFX gels, set your camera's WB to a custom dialed in amount.

Jan 07, 2011 01:35

Editing welcome :D

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drdiesel1
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Mary G Photo wrote in post #11589544external link
I usually shoot in Program Mode. Its very random when it comes up. Thanks for all the imput.


Shooting in Program mode is the first problem. The second will be using the speedlite in ETTL mode.
It needs to be set to manual mode, just like the strobes are.

I would suggest removing the the speedlite and just use 1 strobe until you get use to working with it. Then you could add additional lighting later ;)

Jan 07, 2011 01:46

Nikon D810 Nikon 50F/1.4G - Nikon 70-200F/2.8II
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egordon99
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Mary G Photo wrote in post #11583166external link
It seems no matter what my settings are, I have BLOW OUT. Causing all my image to look blown out on the screen. I have tried new lenses and settings, and this never seems to help.

Have you tried f/22? I'm sure it won't be blown out at f/22 :) Have you tried lowering your ISO, reducing the power of the strobes? If you are shooting in P, I can't figure out what settings you were changing. I'm willing to bet your shooting in P coupled with not knowing the basics of flash/strobe photography are causing your blowouts, and NOT your radio triggers.

Jan 07, 2011 07:55



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drdiesel1
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egordon99 wrote in post #11591111external link
Have you tried f/22? I'm sure it won't be blown out at f/22 :) Have you tried lowering your ISO, reducing the power of the strobes? If you are shooting in P, I can't figure out what settings you were changing. I'm willing to bet your shooting in P coupled with not knowing the basics of flash/strobe photography are causing your blowouts, and NOT your radio triggers.


If she's using P mode, it's semi automatic and the camera is only calibrating EV based on the cameras meter using ETTL with the speedlight.
Adding in the strobes will fool the cameras ability to control EV.

She need's to remove the speedlite and work with the strobes.

I would start with setting the camera to 1/125th at F11 and ISO at 100.
Set the strobes to 1/4 power and take a test shot.

You have a LM, so set it for 1/125th at ISO 100 and see what it gives you for an aperture reading.

Jan 07, 2011 14:07

Nikon D810 Nikon 50F/1.4G - Nikon 70-200F/2.8II
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Wilt
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Mary G Photo,
Your camera meter would NEVER EVER meter studio flash...it shows only the proper exposure assuming only the ambient light is used to make the photo!

Please, stop portraying yourself as a professional if such a fundamental understanding of camera functionality is over your head.

Jan 07, 2011 22:40

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bobbyz
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I think we should cut some slack to her being the newcomer to this forum. I was a bit harsh in my earlier post which got some how deleted, I am sorry.

Jan 07, 2011 23:25

5dmk3, Sigma Art 35mm f1.4, 35L, 85L II, 24-70mm f2.8 II, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2

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Mary ­ G ­ Photo
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Thank you to everybody for the positive feedback, and ideas I can try. My shooting space is very dark and I was having a difficult time lighting my subjects with just the strobes, since they are only 150w and 250 w. I will try some differnt settings with out my flash and go from there.

Wilt, Negativity will get you no where is life... and calling me Unprofessional and you dont know me at all. I will disregard your negative comment.

Jan 08, 2011 01:36

Canon 5D Mark II & Two Canon 50D.
Canon 70-200IS L 2.8, Canon 24-70 L 2.8
Speedlite 530EX & 480 EX

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Blow Out, using Canon 5D Mark II in Studio
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