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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Jan 2011 (Tuesday) 14:25
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Show us your setup and the final result!

 
Mindeater
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Sep 23, 2017 09:27 |  #10861

dpe wrote in post #18458474 (external link)
If you set the AD600 to 1/2 - 1/3 you get a duration of 1/970 which should freeze action or just go to 1/2 - 2/3 which is 1/1196s, so losing less than 2 stops.

HSS at 1/1000 loses about 2 2/3 to 3 stops from my measurements so you gain a stop of flash power compared to full power HSS - you can get the best of both worlds by shooting tail sync (Long tail sync) you will still lose 2 stops of power at 1/1000 but you can use the higher shutter speed and recycling is less affected by thermal cutout

Mike

Thanks Mike, that gives me plenty more things to stick in the mix, ideally I'd like to run with only 1 A600 as the main light, instead of having to burn two units for the one spot, so freeing up a unit to be able to throw in a kicker across the back. Certainly looking forward to further experiementation now I've got the first one out of the way, and having some images to show, we have an endless stream of owners wanting to participate in sessions.




  
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dpe
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Sep 23, 2017 09:33 as a reply to  @ Mindeater's post |  #10862

You need the XTR16 receiver to do tail sync and flash must be at full power but it does work.

I have also photographed horses with flash without issue, problem is riders not horses

Mike


UK based photographer specialising in equestrian but also doing things like Prom Photography (external link)

  
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golfecho
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Sep 23, 2017 09:52 |  #10863

Mindeater wrote in post #18458611 (external link)
. . . so we do always fire off some tests with the horse standing still and calm and a little way from the main light, to guage any problem, and to ease them into it,

That's a great idea. Blindingly obvious now that you say it, but it did not even occur to me . . .


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dmward
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Post edited 8 months ago by dmward.
     
Sep 23, 2017 10:00 |  #10864

Mindeater wrote in post #18458613 (external link)
Thanks Mike, that gives me plenty more things to stick in the mix, ideally I'd like to run with only 1 A600 as the main light, instead of having to burn two units for the one spot, so freeing up a unit to be able to throw in a kicker across the back. Certainly looking forward to further experiementation now I've got the first one out of the way, and having some images to show, we have an endless stream of owners wanting to participate in sessions.

Nice images.

Are you sure you need those big modifiers for these shots?
They look to be quite a way back from the jump which reduces their light softening effect.

I'd do a test image, ambient only to find the ISO/aperture that results in a black frame at sync speed. That becomes the shooting settings. Then, using the AD600 duration readout find the power setting that gives the light duration needed to stop the action. Maybe even do a test or two to find the optimum.

Given this info, which can be collected without horses present, I'd select a modifier to ensue the lights are far enough back. I'm thinking some of the longer throw reflectors like the Cheetah Light 45 and 38. (I know they don't sell them in UK but I'm sure you can find something similar) Another advantage of those modifiers is much tighter light cone which will help minimize light on extraneous jump components.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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PJJ205
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Sep 23, 2017 10:38 |  #10865

This is easily one of my favorite threads on this website! Hope I can contribute sometime in the near future. Nice work everyone.




  
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Osa713
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Sep 23, 2017 13:56 |  #10866

Updated the "contact" page on my website. The stock image was a bit tired.


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LIGHT>LENS>BODY

  
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Mindeater
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Post edited 8 months ago by Mindeater.
     
Sep 24, 2017 11:59 |  #10867

dmward wrote in post #18458636 (external link)
Nice images.

Are you sure you need those big modifiers for these shots?
They look to be quite a way back from the jump which reduces their light softening effect.

I'd do a test image, ambient only to find the ISO/aperture that results in a black frame at sync speed. That becomes the shooting settings. Then, using the AD600 duration readout find the power setting that gives the light duration needed to stop the action. Maybe even do a test or two to find the optimum.

Given this info, which can be collected without horses present, I'd select a modifier to ensue the lights are far enough back. I'm thinking some of the longer throw reflectors like the Cheetah Light 45 and 38. (I know they don't sell them in UK but I'm sure you can find something similar) Another advantage of those modifiers is much tighter light cone which will help minimize light on extraneous jump components.

Very good question, I didn't have time to experiment with different setups to determine the effective throw and spread of the modifiers, I went for a couple of fairly large ones for the first test just to see what I could do. They are quite close in to the horse, the main light was about as close as we were comfortable with in the end, hopefully without HSS we can move that further back.

I did also take of a bunch of other kit including large flags to place around the main light to help feather, but again, time got the better of me, I'm sorting out another session at the end of October, so hope to put all of or most of these ideas into practice.

Thanks for your comments and advice.




  
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dmward
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Sep 24, 2017 17:30 |  #10868

Mindeater wrote in post #18459374 (external link)
Very good question, I didn't have time to experiment with different setups to determine the effective throw and spread of the modifiers, I went for a couple of fairly large ones for the first test just to see what I could do. They are quite close in to the horse, the main light was about as close as we were comfortable with in the end, hopefully without HSS we can move that further back.

I did also take of a bunch of other kit including large flags to place around the main light to help feather, but again, time got the better of me, I'm sorting out another session at the end of October, so hope to put all of or most of these ideas into practice.

Thanks for your comments and advice.

Now that you have one shoot under your belt.
I'd do some testing with modifiers against a wall or other way to test for coverage and light cone density.

Then you'll have information you can apply when next on site.

It takes time and practice to get comfortable with modifiers and how they preform. In my experience investing the time to learn how the lights and modifiers work before going on location saves time and reduces the amount of kit one has to have available for the shoot.


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DigitalTuned
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Post edited 8 months ago by DigitalTuned. (2 edits in all)
     
Sep 25, 2017 12:10 |  #10869

Set up
Godox ad360II with X1t on cam
Wife
5dmkII with 50mm f1.2

Set Up

IMAGE: http://i68.tinypic.com/2usu6o0.jpg

Result

IMAGE: http://i66.tinypic.com/e7jzfr.jpg

Other results with same set up

IMAGE: http://i66.tinypic.com/1zp1kya.jpg

IMAGE: http://i68.tinypic.com/25jxvfd.jpg

Isaac
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Osa713
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Sep 25, 2017 13:01 as a reply to  @ DigitalTuned's post |  #10870

Digging the last shot!


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tacphotog
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Sep 25, 2017 18:16 |  #10871

I agree, they are all nice but that last shot is gorgeous.


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DigitalTuned
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Sep 25, 2017 18:52 |  #10872

Thank you


Isaac
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rogertoliver
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Sep 26, 2017 14:08 as a reply to  @ DigitalTuned's post |  #10873

I like how the subject of the images is well lit and the color of the dress stands out extremely well against the backgrounds, I am having a hard time looking past the fence rail coming out of the last image. Personally, I think cropping the image down to remove the left side all the way to the closest fence post would put more focus on the subject and less on the out of focus blob in the upper left corner of the image. But, again, that's just me.




  
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Mindeater
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Post edited 7 months ago by Mindeater.
     
Sep 26, 2017 16:21 |  #10874

Lovely shots, I can't believe I'm gonna say this, but wow, what an amazing dress! ;-)a

P.S. Can you tell us where the dress is from please? (Don't say it was hand made locally)




  
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EightEleven
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Sep 26, 2017 16:39 |  #10875

Not to upstage that beautiful dress but last year I met Anna who hand makes her own dresses for purchase and rent.

Check her out here..Dress! (external link)


Ron Snarski
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C&C always welcome!

  
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Show us your setup and the final result!
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