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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 440
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Hello all,
I need a little wisdom from you all. I don't think this is a camera thing or a lens thing. My problem is I work from a tripod and like to frame my shot. I swich my lens (usually a Tamron 28-75 2.8) to manual focus and focus my subject with the correct composition. When I look at the image on my computer, it is NOT in focus. If I have a subject anywhere other then dead center, I don't have good tack focus. I have tried all of my lens and have similar issues. Now if I go hand held and compose with the subject more center and then place the background off to the side all looks fine. I'm starting to more portraits and the issue of focus is a huge concern of mine. I don't trust my camera system. I like to open up to f/4 or larger, but with the decreased dof and my focus issues, I never know what I'm going to get. Can anyone tell me if it is normal to have softness at the edges of the lens after manually focusing and seeing tack focus in the viewfinder? My lens list is in my signature so you can see what I shot with. Many thanks!
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--JWR EOS5D + Grip, 1D MkIII Tamron 28-75 2.8, EF 70-200 L f2.8 IS EF 16-35 L EF 24-105 L f4 IS, 50mm 1.4, 35 L, 85 1.8, 580EX x4, SB28 x6 www.jessereich.com |
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#2 |
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Cream of the Crop
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Posts: 9,462
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First of all, why don't you isolate the problem to one lens, the other lens, or the camera body? If it refuses to sort out, then maybe it is something that you are doing wrong. It is possible that the diopter setting is screwy. Also, you might test autofocus on the center point and see how that works.
---Bob Gross--- |
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#3 |
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Goldmember
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I agree with Bob. Check your diopter setting... then have a look at your lenses and narrow it down
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#4 |
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Member
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I had a similar problem once on an old Canon FT. The mirror became misaligned, and so what appeared to be in focus in the viewfinder was actually way out of focus. But I had no way of knowing until I got the film back (several rolls of vacation film ruined). If your mirror has been bumped or damaged, that could be your problem.
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#5 |
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Prodigal "Brick" Layer
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sayre, Pennsylvania
Posts: 16,187
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I don't have my xt with me at the moment, but I think your problem might be that you may have center-weighted your focus. With the AF, you can pick which point you want to use as your "main" area of focus. I believe it's the * button, and then use the wheel ahead of that to choose your point. As far as manual focus...well...ya got me.
Of course you all knew that.
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Mac users swear by their computers. PC users swear at theirs.
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#6 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 440
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Quote:
I always keep the AF locked to the center focus point, however I have recently been changing this focus point based on the the compositon of my shot so I can use the AF since it can do something my eye seems unable to complete. I do not know what the diopter setting is or how it can be altered. I'm really at a loss and very worried/upset as I need to be able to rely on Manual Focus. Any suggestions? Thanks,
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--JWR EOS5D + Grip, 1D MkIII Tamron 28-75 2.8, EF 70-200 L f2.8 IS EF 16-35 L EF 24-105 L f4 IS, 50mm 1.4, 35 L, 85 1.8, 580EX x4, SB28 x6 www.jessereich.com |
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#7 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Palm Beach County, FL
Posts: 758
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Quote:
It is a small wheel near the eyepiece. See page 42 of your XT manual. Jim |
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#8 |
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Cream of the Crop
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Posts: 9,462
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It certainly sounds like something wrong between the diopter adjustment and the focus screen. That means the diopter adjustment, itself, the actual alignment of the prism, and the focus screen. There might be little shims holding the focus screen that have gotten lost.
However, you didn't mention whether you tried the other lens, as I had suggested. If both lenses are roughly the same, then this takes us back to the above premise. ---Bob Gross--- |
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#9 |
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Caution, Cant keep clothes on
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Temecua, Ca
Posts: 790
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I've found that manual focus is more then a little difficult to nail down perfect with the standard screen. you may want to purchase a split prism screen to help when you manual focus.
Why dont you use AF in the studio? -Johnny |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 440
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Johnny,
I'm not in a studio environment very often. When in a controled environment, I use AF or when I'm not on a tripod. I've just been doing family portraits and want everything to be tack sharp. I'm sorry to say, they have not been. I found the diopter and did play with it a little. I'm working on some shots with the camera hooked to my computer. Thanks for the help.
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--JWR EOS5D + Grip, 1D MkIII Tamron 28-75 2.8, EF 70-200 L f2.8 IS EF 16-35 L EF 24-105 L f4 IS, 50mm 1.4, 35 L, 85 1.8, 580EX x4, SB28 x6 www.jessereich.com |
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#11 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 440
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Quote:
I'm fairly sure the issue is with the viewfinder/diopter. Now I just need to see what it takes to figure all this out. I'm just thankful AF on these lens and camera are so good or I would be up a creek...
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--JWR EOS5D + Grip, 1D MkIII Tamron 28-75 2.8, EF 70-200 L f2.8 IS EF 16-35 L EF 24-105 L f4 IS, 50mm 1.4, 35 L, 85 1.8, 580EX x4, SB28 x6 www.jessereich.com |
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#12 |
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Compensating for his small ... sensor
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JWreich,
let's apply a bit more reasoning here... - When focusing manually, You see a sharp image in the viewfinder - Regarded on the computer, it's not that sharp at all - When using AF, you get images that are sharp on the computer. One more question ... when you use AF, does the image look sharp through the viewfinder as well? Assuming there is something WRONG with your camera (focus screen misalignment, missing/wrong shim etc.), AND that you are able to correctly judge focus from the viewfinder, then the image should NOT be sharp in the viewfinder when using AF. If - on the other hand - you use AF and - the image is sharp in the viewfinder AND on the PC, and - with manual focus it is ONLY sharp in the viewfinder, but not on the PC, then I assume you have the same problem as I do ... it's pretty hard to focus 100% accurate using MF with the 20D/Drebel XT. In that case, consider getting a split prism screen, if you want to use MF. Best regards, Andy
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 440
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Andy,
I think your right. I have a hard time with the small viewfinder of the XT. I may have to look at a split screen prism. Isn't there a guy in the BST forum listing them. How much do these cost and where is the best place to get one? --
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--JWR EOS5D + Grip, 1D MkIII Tamron 28-75 2.8, EF 70-200 L f2.8 IS EF 16-35 L EF 24-105 L f4 IS, 50mm 1.4, 35 L, 85 1.8, 580EX x4, SB28 x6 www.jessereich.com |
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#14 |
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Cream of the Crop
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if you use auto focus and the pics come out sharp, what does it look like in the diopter?? also why not just use the auto focus for the time being till its figured out?
-zacker-
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My Facebook, Friend me If you want!http://www.facebook.com/brokenfencephotography http://www.facebook.com/theanimalhaven?ref=ts |
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Houston (Friendswood), TX
Posts: 473
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Yes, my guess is that you just aren't getting it into focus manually. It's very difficult to manually focus these things. A split circle screen would make it much easier, but even then that only works when the center circle is over the subject to be focused on.
Do you wear glasses or need glasses? My vote is that you need to focus and then recompose.
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Steve Canon EOS 60D, 350D, 630 Canon 15-85 IS, 100-400L IS, 50mm 1.8, Canon 18-55mm, Sigma 70-300 APO DG Macro Canon AE-1 Program w/ Canon 50mm 1.4 and 70-210 |
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