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Thread started 01 May 2010 (Saturday) 05:59
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Tilt shift (TS-E) lens advice

 
fatclay
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May 01, 2010 05:59 |  #1

hi All,

I am currently looking at purchasing a tilt shift lens to be used for a combination of architecture and real estate photography. The main 2 lenses that I am looking at are the TS-E 17mm f4 & TS-E 24mm f3.5 II.

I am currently using a 7D body.

Any and all advice would be much appreciated as per which lens would be the better of the 2 to choose?

Regards,
Clayton F


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Timphoto
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May 01, 2010 07:10 |  #2

On a 7D body I'd buy the 17mm version. I have the TS-E 24mm f/3.5 II and I love it on my FF camera, but always seem to wish it was wider when it's on my 7D.



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May 01, 2010 07:40 |  #3

How much do you shoot your real estate at 17mm or less now?


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Jerobean
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May 01, 2010 07:46 |  #4

17 has that scary front element, can't use filters on it if that matters.


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May 01, 2010 07:52 as a reply to  @ Jerobean's post |  #5

It also works a treat with the 1.4 TC (I use the Kenko one). Any drop in quality is so marginal as to be irrelevant in the real world.

80% of my architecture work is 24mm or greater but then you need the 17mm, you really need it :)

Both are delightful lenses.


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fatclay
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May 01, 2010 11:02 |  #6

Timphoto wrote in post #10100627 (external link)
On a 7D body I'd buy the 17mm version. I have the TS-E 24mm f/3.5 II and I love it on my FF camera, but always seem to wish it was wider when it's on my 7D.

I think that if this is the case, then 17mm would be the way to go. Having the 24mm on the 7D body would probably, more often than not, not be wide enough?

Is there any distortion at 17mm thou? That could be a little ordinary at times if there was?


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Wilt
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May 01, 2010 16:51 |  #7

fatclay wrote in post #10101529 (external link)
I think that if this is the case, then 17mm would be the way to go. Having the 24mm on the 7D body would probably, more often than not, not be wide enough?

Is there any distortion at 17mm thou? That could be a little ordinary at times if there was?

Having shot with 24mm shift on FF for interiors, I would find the 17mm (28mm equiv. on FF) to be unsufficiently wide on APS-C for interior work.

Using a non-shift UWA which is even wider (such as 10mm on APS-C) as a workaround is OK for some cases, but might not always result in the right frame content as obtained with use of the shift lens.


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Park ­ Street
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May 01, 2010 18:17 |  #8

I have both the lenses and think the 24mm the most useful on a full frame camera. If you are serious about architectural work it is time to start thinking about a 5D or 5DMk2.


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picturecrazy
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May 01, 2010 21:14 |  #9

Tilt-shift architectural work is one of the very few reasons I added full frame to my lineup. I too would recommend adding even a cheap used 5D for this kind of work. 24mm is my magic focal length for building interiors that I shoot. In good architectural work, you don't just stand in the corner, shoot as wide as possible and get the whole room in the shot. You focus more on details, features and the flow of the floorplan. For the "stand in the corner and shoot the whole room" shots, a regular non-TS ultrawide usually does the trick well. But the buildings you are shooting might differ a lot from mine.

But if I had to buy one now, it would be the 17mm TS-E plus a 1.4xTC so I can also get 24mm and have both.


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aureliandan
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May 02, 2010 15:40 |  #10

I have a 40D and just received the TS-E 17mm lens, after using this combination for 2 days I realize that my next body will not be 7D as I planned but 5D Mark II and also on my list is a Kenko 1.4x.




  
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Wilt
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May 02, 2010 20:05 |  #11

picturecrazy wrote in post #10104105 (external link)
But if I had to buy one now, it would be the 17mm TS-E plus a 1.4xTC so I can also get 24mm and have both.

But teleconvertors are designed to work with 'telephoto' optical designs, and won't work as well with 'retrofocus' (wide angle) optics


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peterbj7
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May 02, 2010 20:09 |  #12

I'm not really sure what a tilt-shift lens gives you that another doesn't.....

In any case, they were much used in film days, but with digital can't you use an ordinary lens and correct verticals etc with Photoshop? If getting verticals right is a key benefit of these lenses.


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fnothaft
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May 02, 2010 20:17 |  #13

Wilt wrote in post #10109266 (external link)
But teleconvertors are designed to work with 'telephoto' optical designs, and won't work as well with 'retrofocus' (wide angle) optics

Additionally, the 17mm TS-E is not supposed to work with TCs. Canon doesn't support it.


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Wilt
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May 02, 2010 20:17 |  #14

peterbj7 wrote in post #10109291 (external link)
I'm not really sure what a tilt-shift lens gives you that another doesn't.....

In any case, they were much used in film days, but with digital can't you use an ordinary lens and correct verticals etc with Photoshop? If getting verticals right is a key benefit of these lenses.

Photoshop cannot fully duplicate what is accomplished with tilt and shift.

Tilt can alter the plane of focus, and that is impossible with post processing.

Shift can permit you to not only keep verticals from converging, but it also can permit the shot to contain content not possible without shift.

Conventional lens...

IMAGE: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/wiltonw/IMG_3823.jpg

Shift lens...
IMAGE: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/wiltonw/IMG_3822.jpg

And if you aim a conventional lens downward, to show details like furnishings, then correction via post processing has an adverse affect on resolution because it spreads out available pixels to fill a wider space at one side of the frame.

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fatclay
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May 03, 2010 05:44 |  #15

Thanks to all for there input so far!

From what I have read, that best case scenario would be to get a 5D body with the 24mm TS-E lens. This is somewhat an expensive proposition, but something that if required, then will need to be done.

A little info on my situation, is I am currently completing my studies in commercial photography and intend on going into architecture/real estate photography.

1 question I do have, is why is everyone favoring the 24mm over the 17mm on the FF body? Surely the more one can get into the frame the better? You can always crop the image or simply move forwards to create the same frame as the 24mm? Is this an issue with distortion? I am interested to see some feed back on this.

For me, getting the 17mm would be best case scenario, on my 7D, I am getting 28mm which is going to be usable. Maybe not perfect, but still usable. Then when I go to full frame it will not be an issue.

Definitely would like to get some opinions comparing the 17mm vs 24mm and why?

Thanks in advance,
Clayton F


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Tilt shift (TS-E) lens advice
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