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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 08 Jun 2010 (Tuesday) 00:33
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Canon 100 f2.8 vs Canon f2.8 L

 
canon ­ shooter
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Jun 08, 2010 11:49 |  #16

Carl_Reid wrote in post #10323709 (external link)
Big macro fan here and a glasses wearer too... I'm not sure why you're afraid of scratching your glasses, my lenses have had all kinds of nasty impacts (thank God I had my glasses on at the time!!) and they do not show any marks, modern lens materials are very robust and hard to mark.

AF is just a big no-no for macro work, if you're struggling then switching to LiveView can help as you can then crank up the magnification to aid you. The best bet though is to nail the "rocking backwards and forwards" technique of focussing... Basically get the focus approximate and the gently move backwards and forwards until you've got perfect focus then hit the shutter release. It's worthwhile mastering this as it's about the only way to shoot handheld above 1:1 and it allows you to get shots for focus stacking as well.

As the others have added flash is a must, I always shoot at around 1/160 to 1/200 and manually adjust my flash power to suit the conditions.

I am still debating on if I should return the Non IS and get IS. Are you shooting with IS? In your opinion at 1:1 will IS be the cure all?? Sound like it might help a little but at 1:1 any movement will be an issue??

Think I am going to see if monopod helps


Jim

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Jun 08, 2010 11:57 |  #17

If you're handholding, then IS will automatically allow more wiggle room and allow you to shoot with lower shutter speed. But it also depends greatly on the subject matter that you're shooting. Why don't you rent the lens and make the determination yourself?


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Jun 08, 2010 12:12 |  #18

jwcdds wrote in post #10324988 (external link)
If you're handholding, then IS will automatically allow more wiggle room and allow you to shoot with lower shutter speed. But it also depends greatly on the subject matter that you're shooting. Why don't you rent the lens and make the determination yourself?

Looks like you have the IS version. Do you still have any trouble holding steady enough.

some have said it would make that much difference as the IS can't control any back and forth movement which you have to do to focus?

And some have even said that with the IS it will help some but a very small amount of movement is like an Earthquake and the IS can't control to that degree, when at 1:1


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Jun 08, 2010 12:13 as a reply to  @ jwcdds's post |  #19

I hate to state the obvious, but trying to handhold a macro setup at 1:1 or anywhere near is pretty much impossible. Try a tripod and remote release. For focusing, the best solution is a sliding focus rail, unless you can move the subject instead. You can buy all these for far less than the additional cost of the 100 L lens with IS, and get fantastic results. The IQ will not be detectably better with the 100 L.

You already own of the very best lenses ever made by Canon, but using it effectively takes some practice, as you are finding!


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Jun 08, 2010 12:33 |  #20

puttick wrote in post #10325102 (external link)
I hate to state the obvious, but trying to handhold a macro setup at 1:1 or anywhere near is pretty much impossible. Try a tripod and remote release. For focusing, the best solution is a sliding focus rail, unless you can move the subject instead. You can buy all these for far less than the additional cost of the 100 L lens with IS, and get fantastic results. The IQ will not be detectably better with the 100 L.

You already own of the very best lenses ever made by Canon, but using it effectively takes some practice, as you are finding!

For something like a flower tripod might work but for insects on a flower thing the moment would be gone before I can get tripod in position.

I think I am conviencing myself that the IS would not be the cure all. I think at 1:1 camera movement would be hard to freeze with the IS??

And as others have said it doesn't even effect movement front to back (as in focusing).

Do you do any handheld and with any success


Jim

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MyLookingGlassEye
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Jun 08, 2010 12:55 |  #21

Everyone want to know how the IS works for macro.
Now I know it may seem like it, but no, it's not a marketing ploy.
You have to understand the IS isn't meant to be used at macro levels.
Folks see the words "Macro lens", and get tunnel vision for it's use.
Just because it's macro capable doesn't mean it's ONLY for Macro use; it's not a one-trick pony like the MPe-65 is.
The 100 L is a great 100mm telephoto lens and an absolutely WONDERFUL portrait lens. ;)

One other point...
I forget where, but I remember reading somewhere that the 100's IS is designed work best on the 7D when the cam isn't in ONE SHOT mode.
I know I know, on here we're most concerned with the macro end....
Well let me tell ya - Even though it's not meant to be used like that, I've tried it & in conjunction with the expanded focus points, it works surprisingly well in helping steady things when trying to track moving insects.


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Jun 08, 2010 15:08 |  #22

canon shooter wrote in post #10322472 (external link)
Do you always try to shoot at 1:1 and manual focus or do you also use AF. When I do that and try to get at the min focus range it seems to pick about 1:1.5 to 1:3. So not filling the frame as well.

Depends. Sometimes I want 1:1, other times I'll just do whatever works =)


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Jun 08, 2010 15:11 |  #23

Is the "L" sharper than the none L or other advantages??




  
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Jun 08, 2010 15:11 |  #24

Heavy Smiles wrote in post #10322346 (external link)
Now I'm 16 and I have quite small hands, so I go about this differently.

I entirely lie down on the ground with the camera on my right hand and lens on my left hand, left arm slightly past my right and I slowly maneuver the camera forward very slightly until I get what I want in focus.With my arms stabilized on the ground I find I don't shake as violently as much, but then you can't exactly do this for say, waterdrops on high-hanging plants.

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Jun 08, 2010 15:49 |  #25

vargasjv wrote in post #10326313 (external link)
Is the "L" sharper than the none L or other advantages??

IS and weather sealing. It might be sharper by a tiny amount, but anyone would be pressed to tell the difference.


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Jun 08, 2010 16:09 |  #26

themadman wrote in post #10326562 (external link)
IS and weather sealing. It might be sharper by a tiny amount, but anyone would be pressed to tell the difference.

Not sure if I already asked you this or not. Assume you have (or have used the "L" with IS). Do you find that the IS helps that much with 1:1 Macro.

Hope I did not make mistake by not getting IS, but most of what I am reading says IS is very little help when at 1:1??


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Jun 08, 2010 16:39 |  #27

use your flash...


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Jun 08, 2010 19:21 |  #28

canon shooter wrote in post #10326677 (external link)
Not sure if I already asked you this or not. Assume you have (or have used the "L" with IS). Do you find that the IS helps that much with 1:1 Macro.

Hope I did not make mistake by not getting IS, but most of what I am reading says IS is very little help when at 1:1??

I've tried it, not for that long mind you so I can't say I am the absolute authority on this or anything, but the difference is not big. With flash, your shutter speed tends to be high enough where IS doesn't make a huge difference. Now, if you aren't at 1:1 and you are doing natural light on a stationary subject, the IS prolly does a world of good.


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Jun 08, 2010 20:29 as a reply to  @ themadman's post |  #29

OK, be kind now but looking for some feedback. Only on Day 2 of Macro lense and only about 1 hours of work total. But I think I have made BIG improvements.

Take a look at these two and give me some feedback. Not for comp but just on handholding camera steady and Macro effect.

I didn't do any adjustments in LR other than my import presets. So nothing as far as exposures. Does include some sharpening


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Jun 08, 2010 22:46 |  #30

Your stuff looks fine. If you want more in focus, try focus stacking. There are free programs out there that do it like combine ZM (http://www.hadleyweb.p​wp.blueyonder.co.uk/CZ​M/Manual/Install.htm (external link)).

If you have photoshop (not sure what version they introduced it, but both CS4 and CS5 have it), photoshop can stack pictures as well.


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Canon 100 f2.8 vs Canon f2.8 L
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