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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 06 Jul 2010 (Tuesday) 19:08
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Motorsports with 5D, need a lens recomendation

 
maranelloboy05
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Jul 06, 2010 19:08 |  #1

Need some help with this one. I'm going to the track next week and don't know what lens to rent. I do realize it won't be easy with only 3-4fps and slow AF, but I'm not going to rent a body as well so I'll work with what I have. I used to shoot the track fairly well with a 40D and 70-200, but I'm fairly certain 200mm won't be long enough and I'm even worried 300mm won't be enough and am leaning towards the 400 5.6, but again I'm thinking that will be too long. I appreciate any help.


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RobDickinson
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Jul 06, 2010 19:19 |  #2

100-400L and stick to the good center point with helpers enabled.


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keithleeSTUDIOS
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Jul 06, 2010 19:20 |  #3

Agreed.... BTW, IMHO if you are decent enough, you don't need a high FPS... :)

Keith


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John_T
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Jul 06, 2010 19:21 |  #4

The classic lens for that application would be the 100-400L on the 5D, which using the crop factor, is a little more than the equivalent of your previous 40D/70-200 combo, so you should feel right at home.


Canon : EOS R : 5DIV : 5DS R : 5DIII : 7DII : 40 2.8 : 50 1.4 : 35L : 85L : 100L IS Macro : 135L : 16-35L II : RF-24-105L IS : 70-200L II : 100-400L IS II : 1.4x & 2x TC III : 600EX-RT : 580EX : 430EX : G1XII : Markins Q10 & Q3T : Jobu Gimbal : Manfrotto Underware : etc...

  
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philwillmedia
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Jul 06, 2010 19:21 |  #5

Depends what you want to shoot but you'll be fine with the 5D.
I used a 10D with no probs for 3-4 years before I got my 1D MkII.
I sometimes use a 400d as a third body for major meetings so don't sweat it.
I use a 70-200/2.8 or 300/2.8 most of the time but also add either a 1.4x or 2x converter if I want extra reach. At times I've used a 400/2.8, and 500/4.
At this years F1 GP in Melbourne I also used a 600/4 and the 800/5.6.
At the other extreme, I often use a Sigma 10mm/2.8 fisheye or the Canon 10-22 on track.
When I'm in the pits I usually go with something short.
The 100-400 is probably a good option, I still carry it with me when I'm at a track and feeling lazy.


Regards, Phil
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maranelloboy05
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Jul 06, 2010 19:22 |  #6

That was another thought, but I've heard bad things about the IQ. High FPS is nice for panning and I'm more worried about the AF.


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philwillmedia
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Jul 06, 2010 19:26 |  #7

maranelloboy05 wrote in post #10489153 (external link)
That was another thought, but I've heard bad things about the IQ. High FPS is nice for panning and I'm more worried about the AF.

The 100-400 was my main lens until about 18 months ago when I got the 70-200 and 300/2.8.
Never had an issue with it as far as IQ or AF.
As an aside, I don't use the IS on the 100-400 and the 70-200 and 300 are non IS versions.


Regards, Phil
2013/14 CAMS Gold Accredited Photographer | 2010 & 2011 V8 Supercars Aust. Accredited Photographer | 2008, '09, '10 South Aus. Rally Photographer of the Year | Catch Fence Photos - 2009 Photo of the Year (external link)Finallist - 2014 NT Media Awards
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corkneyfonz
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Jul 06, 2010 20:15 |  #8

Depends entirely on the track and your access. On a full frame, 200mm is dismally short yet at Irish road races can be too much in places. Whilst the 400 option is good, the f5.6 max aperture means slow focussing and a darker viewfinder. Also if you've never used one before, the track action can be so quick that you've missed it especially if trying to pan which means sussing out the slower corners.


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maranelloboy05
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Jul 07, 2010 09:37 |  #9

corkneyfonz wrote in post #10489411 (external link)
Depends entirely on the track and your access. On a full frame, 200mm is dismally short yet at Irish road races can be too much in places. Whilst the 400 option is good, the f5.6 max aperture means slow focussing and a darker viewfinder. Also if you've never used one before, the track action can be so quick that you've missed it especially if trying to pan which means sussing out the slower corners.

I can get as close as is save. I think I will go for the 100-400 and hope the it's sharp enough.


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abqnmusa
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Jul 07, 2010 11:26 |  #10

recommendation: 400mm F5.6 or 300mm F4 IS for long lens

I use two camera bodies for car racing. The lenses determined by where I am shooting from on the track. One with a long lens, and a second with a shorter lens.
400mm F5.6 / 135 F2, 400mm F5.6 /70-200 F4, 135 F2 / Sigma 50mm, 135 F2 / 24mm, 300mm F4 / 70-200

I find the focus on the 400mm F5.6 to be very fast. Same for the 135mm F2, or 70-200 F4. Focus is often easy as cars are large. What takes practice is panning with the subject to show motion (wheels turning, blurred background). That involves getting the right shutter speed to match the car speed and panning. I shoot Tv mode (shutter priority).

I like to include some of the track in the shot. To show the turn being negotiated. Not just a close up of the car. Shots with multiple cars are the best.

The difficulty of car racing pics is that it occurs in mid-day light. So a lens hood is mandatory. There is only so much you can do to make mid-day light look good. Here in New Mexico, USA it is "hot and sunny".

A polarizer filter can help with glare off glass and chrome.

I am mostly shooting from the flagstands at the track.
Take a look at the 2010 directories on this URL:

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Big ­ G
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Jul 07, 2010 14:45 |  #11

I have the 5D and use my 70-200 f2.8 and depending on where I am on the track use with and without my X2. I have been tempted to tryout the Sigma 300mm 2.8 as sometimes I wish I had just a touch more reach; so understand where the poster above is coming from in his/ her 400mm recommendation.

Got a number of motorpsorts in my flicker.


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Geejay
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Jul 07, 2010 16:38 |  #12

100-400 is a classic motorsport lens. I see them everytime I got a track.

By way of (perhaps unwanted/unneccesary) free advice; If you're panning, try manual focus. Set your zoom/framing and pre-focus on the track where you want to take the picture and then follow the car/bike and take your shot. That way the camera will fire when you press the release without having to wait for focus lock. With a bit of practice you'd be surprised how much success you'd have. Also, try to get into the rythmn of taking photos rather than try to react to events. Finally, try to keep both eyes open it helps to see the wider view whilst capturing the closer image.


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John_T
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Jul 07, 2010 16:48 |  #13

...and when panning, brace the camera with the upper body and only swing/revolve from the waist. Set IS to position 2 and/or try it turned off if you have steady smooth movements.


Canon : EOS R : 5DIV : 5DS R : 5DIII : 7DII : 40 2.8 : 50 1.4 : 35L : 85L : 100L IS Macro : 135L : 16-35L II : RF-24-105L IS : 70-200L II : 100-400L IS II : 1.4x & 2x TC III : 600EX-RT : 580EX : 430EX : G1XII : Markins Q10 & Q3T : Jobu Gimbal : Manfrotto Underware : etc...

  
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Motorsports with 5D, need a lens recomendation
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