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Thread started 20 Aug 2010 (Friday) 06:53
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Post your ISO 12,800+ photos!

 
jamesb
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Aug 20, 2010 11:13 |  #31

I already made a thread, but i'll play. I was not expecting such a clean photo anywhere near this ISO at all! First is unedited and the second has Contrast, Temp, Highlight Recovery, and Noise reduction done. This is incredible to me! All adjustments were done in Lightroom with the exception of noise reduction. Which was a plug-in in PS CS4 called Noiseware Professional. I could have smoothed out the skin tones even more, but I wanted it to resemble a photo more than a painting.

ISO at 51,200
1/160
f/4.5
24-70L at 70mm
1DIV

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CyberDyneSystems
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Aug 20, 2010 11:15 |  #32

elitejp wrote in post #10756821 (external link)
I know i know I should just let this drop but I just cant stop laughing when i read this.
Seriously though sometimes we act like jerks on this forum (myself included)
Ok now back on topic how do you actually up the iso by full stops using photoshop cs4? or dpp?

monk3y wrote in post #10756834 (external link)
yes I would love to know also, I want to try to increase a photo to ISO 104,000 then use NR the hell out of it and see if I could have a clean usable photo :lol:

The method is to first shoot underexposed by 1 stop ( or two for two stops more ISO) , in RAW.
This gets you the same shutter speeds you would get if your camera could bump the ISO that extra stop or two.

Then, in your RAW converter, you push the exposure slider up the same one (or two) stops you underexposed by.
The result is what is called ( dates back to the film days ) a "pushed" image.
For the one stop under exposure then pushed back one stop, this is "pushed one stop" etc..



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tkbslc
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Aug 20, 2010 11:15 |  #33

All you do is underexpose by X number of stops and then use your RAW editor to bump the exposure back up X number of stops.


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jacobsen1
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Aug 20, 2010 11:18 as a reply to  @ post 10756821 |  #34

tkbslc wrote in post #10756416 (external link)
Although an ISO 3200 shot pushed to 12800 by software is at a distinct disadvantage to in camera ISO 12800.

having done it both ways there's not much of a difference. Basically, in the old days canon cut us off where they thought it looked bad beyond that point. Now they let us go as far as their marketing departments wants to print on the side of the box. :p

JEmerson wrote in post #10756463 (external link)
Now take a shot at the highest 'real' ISO (Is it 3200 or 6400 on the 7D?). Add one stop in PP. Take a photo at 12800 on the 7D. Compare it; the results should be identical.

yep, they're pretty close. I was playing with the 7D the other night with 1600, then 3200 +1 in camera and -1 in post then 6400 with the same thing. Basically, they're all very similar end results. 3200 made to be 1600 looks like 1600. So I've been shooting at 3200 + 1/2 so it's half a shutter speed faster than 1600 with just a tad more noise, but not as bad as 3200 if that makes sense. This is HAMPSTER or whatever you guys are calling it these days though, or pulling or STTR etc to get LESS noise at higher ISOs.


anyway, I did these when I had my D700
Camera Model: NIKON D700
Lens: 28.0-75.0 mm f/2.8
Exposure Bias: +0.50 EV
6400, 1/6th, f/2.8

IMAGE: http://www.benjacobsen.com/wp-content/gallery/antigua-2010/bbj_4386.jpg

9000, 1/8th, f/2.8
IMAGE: http://www.benjacobsen.com/wp-content/gallery/antigua-2010/bbj_4390.jpg

12800, 1/8th, f/2.8 (notice it stayed at 1/8th which helped the noise)
IMAGE: http://www.benjacobsen.com/wp-content/gallery/antigua-2010/bbj_4396.jpg

25600, 1/16th, f/2.8
IMAGE: http://www.benjacobsen.com/wp-content/gallery/antigua-2010/bbj_4392.jpg

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jamesb
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Aug 20, 2010 11:19 |  #35

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #10756868 (external link)
The method is to first shoot underexposed by 1 stop ( or two for two stops more ISO) , in RAW.
This gets you the same shutter speeds you would get if your camera could bump the ISO that extra stop or two.

Then, in your RAW converter, you push the exposure slider up the same one (or two) stops you underexposed by.
The result is what is called ( dates back to the film days ) a "pushed" image.
For the one stop under exposure then pushed back one stop, this is "pushed one stop" etc..

I had no idea as well. Thanks for the clarification. I think I get it. :lol:


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tkbslc
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Aug 20, 2010 11:21 |  #36

Looks good, jacobsen. I guess I was wrong about in camera pushes.


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stsva
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Aug 20, 2010 12:26 |  #37

jwcdds wrote in post #10756617 (external link)
Moar pikchas, less bickering. (I'm at work so I won't be able to contribute my 12800 photos until later.)

+1 (not pushed ;))


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watt100
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Aug 20, 2010 12:29 as a reply to  @ tkbslc's post |  #38

I guess it's time to step in and brag about the ISO performance of the XSi

XSi (450D) at ISO 12,800
(shot in RAW at 1600, exposure increased three stops in PS, Neat Image noise reduction applied

IMAGE: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4910357147_449af453b4_z.jpg

before processing -

IMAGE: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4910368855_9170297e2b_m.jpg

isn't software amazing?



  
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gabebalazs
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Aug 20, 2010 14:21 |  #39

Here are a few from me, cleaned up using DPP and Reduce Noise effect in CS3:
(Camera: 7D, I think...) :)

IMAGE: http://gabebalazsphoto.com/misc_photos/Indians_ISO12800.jpg
IMAGE: http://gabebalazsphoto.com/misc_photos/Wall_ISO12800.jpg
IMAGE: http://gabebalazsphoto.com/misc_photos/Fluffy2_ISO12800.jpg

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Davie82
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Aug 20, 2010 14:57 |  #40

The picture of the cat is stunning.

How about ISO 25600 on the 50D? This was taken at ISO 12800, exposure increased by a stop, and noise reduced in CR. My living room is very dark; the only source of light is my PC monitor (the knife is on the desk).

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/png'


Same scenario, this time 12800 without any exposure comp in PP.
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 502 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

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Aug 20, 2010 17:35 |  #41

Two testphotos indoors in my now dark apartment with only one light in the window on. Pics shot at ISO 12,800. Check the EXIF info, everything is there. :)
Btw, the pics got somewhat downsized by the imagehosting site. But they should still be ok for this type of example.

1.
http://i38.tinypic.com​/23uwtg2.jpg (external link)

2.
http://i36.tinypic.com​/33p7pkm.jpg (external link)

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Aug 20, 2010 19:16 |  #42

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #10756868 (external link)
The method is to first shoot underexposed by 1 stop ( or two for two stops more ISO) , in RAW.
This gets you the same shutter speeds you would get if your camera could bump the ISO that extra stop or two.

Then, in your RAW converter, you push the exposure slider up the same one (or two) stops you underexposed by.
The result is what is called ( dates back to the film days ) a "pushed" image.
For the one stop under exposure then pushed back one stop, this is "pushed one stop" etc..

So for those shooting manual mode, how do you do this? Do you dial in settings that get you close to -2, then add +2 during raw processing? How can you tell that a manual mode shot followed this push methodology, there would be nothing in the exif to tell you that the exposure was under by 2, correct?

My 12800 quick shot while watching the kids (and no, not the lens, but bonafide kids). :)


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Aug 20, 2010 21:38 |  #43

ISO 51200 doesn't come out very well on the 7D. :(


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Aug 20, 2010 21:39 |  #44

TeamSpeed wrote in post #10759724 (external link)
ISO 51200 doesn't come out very well on the 7D. :(

D@mmit. It can't do 51200? That's it, I'm switching to Nikon D3100. ;)


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Aug 20, 2010 23:45 |  #45

Just for shiggles: iso51200 (12800 pushed 2 stops), ACR 6.1 NR applied L60/C65

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Post your ISO 12,800+ photos!
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