Shooting friend's daughter belt test...suggestions

I'm planning to shoot a friend's daughter during her martial arts belt testing, which will be indoors. I was thinking of using my 5D II with my 100-400 and my 7D with my 70-200. Although I would probably get the FOV of about 100mm from both cameras, I'll have a longer reach on my 5D II with the 100-400. Though I'm not sure if I would need to go beyond 300mm.

I was also thinking of maybe going with the 5D II with my 70-200 for the long reach and maybe the 7D with the 85/1.8, which should be a fast lens with a FOV of maybe about 100mm.

Should I worry about using a monopod with either the 70-200 or 100-400 during the event, but her her being a child, I may just sit in a way to use my elbow as a support. But if I go with a monopod, should I still use IS?

You will need fast shutter speeds for this, so turn OFF IS, it's not helpful. Indoors, you'll most likely be using high ISO and wide open to get fast enough speeds ( 1/500 and faster ). How far away will you be shooting from? The 70-200 or 85 should be good enough.

Thanks. Although it might be too much, I'm planning to bring both cameras. I have 2 Luma Loops, so I'll be slinging both cameras on each shoulder.

So should I just set both cameras and Tv (Shutter priority) and ISO to AUTO?

I haven't been there yet, so I'm unsure of my distance. I'm assuming they are using fluorescent lightss, so should I meter and lock onto a white gi (uniform) before shooting?

I normally use spot metering, use center point focus (back focus button) with AI Servo.

Good question, how close will you be to the action? I did one of these about a year ago and I was figuring on using the 70-200 as well, but ended up being right on the edge of the floor right next to the action. I had to end up changing my game plan on the fly. Luckily I brought the 50mm f/1.4 and that was almost too much lens for the venue. IMO a monopod would be too much and I would prefer to hand hold.

As was suggested try and keep your shutter speeds up as much as possible

ecub wrote in post #10951481
So should I just set both cameras and Tv (Shutter priority) and ISO to AUTO?

I normally use spot metering, use center point focus (back focus button) with AI Servo.

Indoors the light will not be changing. Use manual exposure. AI-Servo for sure.

Yes, lighting can most definitely change indoors, particularly in older dojos that have cycling fluorescent lights. This can yield shots as much as 2 stops apart and wildly varying color temperatures.

ecub wrote in post #10951481
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So should I just set both cameras and Tv (Shutter priority) and ISO to AUTO?

I haven't been there yet, so I'm unsure of my distance. I'm assuming they are using fluorescent lightss, so should I meter and lock onto a white gi (uniform) before shooting?

I normally use spot metering, use center point focus (back focus button) with AI Servo.

I'd stay with Av and shoot wide open. I would manually set my ISO so my SS stays north of 1/800 or even 1/1000. AI Servo is fine, but I'd prob not use it so I can have more control on where I'm focusing.

And I'm thinking your lens' are going to be too long, so make sure you bring your wider lens' as well.

Ok. I'm sure I can get upfront. I'm just unsure how far upfront is from the action. I guess I'll couple my faster 85/1.8 with my 5D II and the 24-70 with my 7D. If the 85/1.8 is still too much reach, I'll probably go with the 16-35 on the 7D and stick with that. I probably wouldn't use the 24-70 on the 5D II, since I'll probably get close to the same FOV.

- So shutter at around 1/1000.
- AI Servo using the back focus button
- Meter on people, preferably white gi's, though I'm sure there will be black gi's there as well. I'm sure that may overexpose some people.
- I'll try manual, but I suck at manual and usually over/under expose.

SnapLocally.com wrote in post #10957086
Yes, lighting can most definitely change indoors, particularly in older dojos that have cycling fluorescent lights.

Your meter can't detect the cycling lights ... use manual. Adjust as necessary if your subject is moving all over the room.

ecub wrote in post #10958136
- Meter on people, preferably white gi's, though I'm sure there will be black gi's there as well. I'm sure that may overexpose some people.

If you expose for the ambient, white or black gi's won't matter. Hence the best reason for using manual exposure.

Indoors with a 100-400? Most likely it will be too slow unless the hall has some windows letting daylight in.
Most likely 24-70, 70-200 and 85 are your best bets since you do not know how far away you'll be. You may want to bring your 50 as some of these places have really poor light.


Since this is a child, 1/400th should be alright. If the grading involves a lot of jumping, then go higher shutter speeds.

I also support using manual mode.

Advise using RAW for easier colour and exposure correction in PP.