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Thread started 30 Sep 2010 (Thursday) 18:32
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why always so dark?

 
Tommydigi
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Oct 01, 2010 10:40 |  #31

Maybe I was looking at the wrong sig. I saw a whole bunch of L primes.


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ben_r_
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Oct 01, 2010 11:00 |  #32

themadman wrote in post #11010632 (external link)
I don't want to be dis-respectful but I find many "natural light" only photographers are just afraid of flash. Learn to use it, it makes a world of difference. THats really the best advice I can give you.

Or they flat out dont own one.


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kitacanon
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Oct 01, 2010 11:29 |  #33

ben_r_ wrote in post #11014505 (external link)
Or they flat out dont own one.

Learning how to use the on-board flash is worth the effort as well.


My Canon kit 450D/s90; Canon lenses 18-55 IS, 70-210/3.5-4.5....Nikon kit: D610; 28-105/3.5-4.5, 75-300/4.5-5.6 AF, 50/1.8D Nikkors, Tamron 80-210; MF Nikkors: 50/2K, 50/1.4 AI-S, 50/1.8 SeriesE, 60/2.8 Micro Nikkor (AF locked), 85mm/1.8K-AI, 105/2.5 AIS/P.C, 135/2.8K/Q.C, 180/2.8 ED, 200/4Q/AIS, 300/4.5H-AI, ++ Tamron 70-210/3.8-4, Vivitar/Kiron 28/2, ser.1 70-210/3.5, ser.1 28-90; Vivitar/Komine and Samyang 28/2.8; 35mm Nikon F/FM/FE2, Rebel 2K...HTC RE UWA camera

  
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versedmb
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Oct 01, 2010 11:37 |  #34

Learning to use flash is a crucial part of photography, especially indoor photography.

Here is an example that I've posted here before.

50 1.4 on 5d, no flash....

IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/photos/433756195_xnWgY-L.jpg

Now with 430EX bounced...
IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/photos/433763586_EvoYv-L.jpg


430EX bounced...
IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/photos/750126428_W6iG9-L.jpg

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jeljohns
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Oct 01, 2010 12:03 |  #35

kitacanon wrote in post #11014048 (external link)
OP...Check your private message for a revised image

Here are some basic questions that need to be asked and answered before any gear suggestions made so far (use flash for example)....excuse me if they seem too basic but you need to find out WHY the pictures are dark...not that using a flash isn't a bad idea, it's just that you need help with what you are doing now...

1. What are you doing to determine that the exposure is correct...?

A. Are you looking at the image on the LCD to determine if the image is okay?...if so and if it looks good THERE but NOT in the PC then you have adjusted the LCD brightness too high so it LOOKS okay in the camera when in fact it is not.

B. Are you using this exposure information in the viewfinder ---I--- and setting the exposure to the middle?
For most photos that is about where it should be...
HOWEVER: if the vertical line is to the left of center -I----- THAT means you are underexposing the photo...

2. Are you making any adjustments to the exposures IN THE PC?
You don't offer us the opportunity to edit your photos (in your public profile) but I've revised one and sent it to you...it looks just fine...

When bouncing flash, you can't be very close to the subject...the shot above is dark on the bottom because the bouncing light is too upright.

I check the exposure on the LCD and the histogram. I KNOW these are bad exposures. My main question was why I go to the extremes (high ISO, opening up my lens as far as I can) and yet I still have to go to such a low shutter speed that everything is blurry. This happens over and over again inside. I'm not able to take any good pictures inside. I see other people being able to photograph inside with no flash without an issue.

Inside is the main issue, but I also run into this outside in the shade so I think I am doing something majorly wrong. I don't think outside I should be bumping my ISO up so high. I rarely ever get to take a picture at 100 or 200 ISO. 400 is usually the lowest. I get a lot of noise too, because everything is always so underexposed, but to properly expose I run into the slow shutter speed. SO frustrated.




  
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HoosierJoe
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Oct 01, 2010 12:07 |  #36

jeljohns wrote in post #11014892 (external link)
I check the exposure on the LCD and the histogram. I KNOW these are bad exposures. My main question was why I go to the extremes (high ISO, opening up my lens as far as I can) and yet I still have to go to such a low shutter speed that everything is blurry. This happens over and over again inside. I'm not able to take any good pictures inside. I see other people being able to photograph inside with no flash without an issue.

I have a 50D. I CAN crank the iso to 3200. With a good exposure and by running the images through the FREE Noiseware program, I can get good images.

Mostly, though, inside I use a flash. It is really the only way to go.



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HoosierJoe
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Oct 01, 2010 12:09 |  #37

ben_r_ wrote in post #11014505 (external link)
Or they flat out dont own one.

I do know a woman who only does newborn portraits. She uses only natural light. She is really, really good. I don't know if she owns a flash or is afraid of one, I'll ask her.



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stsva
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Oct 01, 2010 12:25 |  #38

jeljohns wrote in post #11014892 (external link)
I check the exposure on the LCD and the histogram. I KNOW these are bad exposures. My main question was why I go to the extremes (high ISO, opening up my lens as far as I can) and yet I still have to go to such a low shutter speed that everything is blurry. This happens over and over again inside. I'm not able to take any good pictures inside. I see other people being able to photograph inside with no flash without an issue.

Inside is the main issue, but I also run into this outside in the shade so I think I am doing something majorly wrong. I don't think outside I should be bumping my ISO up so high. I rarely ever get to take a picture at 100 or 200 ISO. 400 is usually the lowest. I get a lot of noise too, because everything is always so underexposed, but to properly expose I run into the slow shutter speed. SO frustrated.

It could partially be in how you have your camera set for metering. Are you using evaluative metering and exposure compensation?

Also, are you familiar with the concepts covered here http://www.cambridgein​colour.com/tutorials/c​amera-metering.htm (external link)?


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Image Editing OK

  
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versedmb
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Oct 01, 2010 12:56 |  #39

jeljohns wrote in post #11014892 (external link)
I check the exposure on the LCD and the histogram. I KNOW these are bad exposures. My main question was why I go to the extremes (high ISO, opening up my lens as far as I can) and yet I still have to go to such a low shutter speed that everything is blurry. This happens over and over again inside. I'm not able to take any good pictures inside. I see other people being able to photograph inside with no flash without an issue.

Inside is the main issue, but I also run into this outside in the shade so I think I am doing something majorly wrong. I don't think outside I should be bumping my ISO up so high. I rarely ever get to take a picture at 100 or 200 ISO. 400 is usually the lowest. I get a lot of noise too, because everything is always so underexposed, but to properly expose I run into the slow shutter speed. SO frustrated.

Practice, practice, practice.

If your shooting indoors in crappy lighting without flash your going to get crappy pics - simple as that.

I like to shoot indoors with natural light when I can, but you have to know when you can get away with it and when you can't....

Indoors, window light only....This is a shot where I could get away with natural light only...

IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/Other/Easter/MG0440r1/270091420_coZ2j-L.jpg


430 EX bounced. This shot would look like crap without flash, there simply isn't enough light....
IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/photos/445087292_heWa6-L.jpg

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Prometheus2010
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Oct 01, 2010 13:27 |  #40

jeljohns wrote in post #11014892 (external link)
I check the exposure on the LCD and the histogram. I KNOW these are bad exposures. My main question was why I go to the extremes (high ISO, opening up my lens as far as I can) and yet I still have to go to such a low shutter speed that everything is blurry. This happens over and over again inside. I'm not able to take any good pictures inside. I see other people being able to photograph inside with no flash without an issue.

Inside is the main issue, but I also run into this outside in the shade so I think I am doing something majorly wrong. I don't think outside I should be bumping my ISO up so high. I rarely ever get to take a picture at 100 or 200 ISO. 400 is usually the lowest. I get a lot of noise too, because everything is always so underexposed, but to properly expose I run into the slow shutter speed. SO frustrated.

Looking at those pictures and settings, I think I kinda understand where your frustration coming from. I notice the dark color background on 2nd and 3rd picture, those and inadequate/low lighting condition could make the "darkness" overall look of the pictures worse. Try to pick a brighter background so light can bounce to the object better - move closer to a light source, make sure you pick the correct WB setting and see how it goes. As of the blurry picture, well...the baby probably moves alot, that + camera shake, try burst mode and I'm sure you can pick good one out of the bunch :)


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bsaber
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Oct 01, 2010 13:37 |  #41

I can't see the pics the OP posted but if done right flash can easily look natural. Take this picture: http://lh5.ggpht.com …/rZK3F_zFs5U/_M​G_0262.jpg (external link)

Granted I used OCF but for this situation I could of very easily just bounced off a side wall. Here's the original thread I posted this image to along with two others: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=921555




  
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SeanH
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Oct 01, 2010 16:15 as a reply to  @ bsaber's post |  #42

You need to back up and learn about photography......perio​d.

We can post stuff all day but you lack the basic knowledge for it to make sense.

.....not being rude, but it would be like a Doctor taking tech to me. I'd have no idea what he was taking about. He could talk to me for hours and I'd still have no idea.


Edit......well maybe not as much photography, but for sure metering and how a camera sees 18% gray.


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snyderman
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Oct 01, 2010 16:31 |  #43

I'm inside right now. The front of my house faces west and it's 5:30 pm EST. Turned on my 5D with a 50mm f/1.4 attached. Even with the sun coming in through windows and doors, I'm at ISO 400, f/5.6 and still getting 1/80th on the shutter speed.

This is just for rough comparison.

dave


Canon 5D2 > 35L-85L-135L

  
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dontcallmeash
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Oct 01, 2010 16:34 |  #44

snyderman wrote in post #11016402 (external link)
I'm inside right now. The front of my house faces west and it's 5:30 pm EST. Turned on my 5D with a 50mm f/1.4 attached. Even with the sun coming in through windows and doors, I'm at ISO 400, f/5.6 and still getting 1/80th on the shutter speed.

This is just for rough comparison.

dave

that's pretty awesome, actually.




  
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kitacanon
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Oct 01, 2010 16:43 |  #45

jeljohns wrote in post #11014892 (external link)
I check the exposure on the LCD and the histogram. I KNOW these are bad exposures. My main question was why I go to the extremes (high ISO, opening up my lens as far as I can) and yet I still have to go to such a low shutter speed that everything is blurry. This happens over and over again inside. I'm not able to take any good pictures inside. I see other people being able to photograph inside with no flash without an issue.

Inside is the main issue, but I also run into this outside in the shade so I think I am doing something majorly wrong. I don't think outside I should be bumping my ISO up so high. I rarely ever get to take a picture at 100 or 200 ISO. 400 is usually the lowest. I get a lot of noise too, because everything is always so underexposed, but to properly expose I run into the slow shutter speed. SO frustrated.

Well, I'd recommend you seek out someone who can be with you (with their camera) when you shoot and the two of you can compare settings and results.


My Canon kit 450D/s90; Canon lenses 18-55 IS, 70-210/3.5-4.5....Nikon kit: D610; 28-105/3.5-4.5, 75-300/4.5-5.6 AF, 50/1.8D Nikkors, Tamron 80-210; MF Nikkors: 50/2K, 50/1.4 AI-S, 50/1.8 SeriesE, 60/2.8 Micro Nikkor (AF locked), 85mm/1.8K-AI, 105/2.5 AIS/P.C, 135/2.8K/Q.C, 180/2.8 ED, 200/4Q/AIS, 300/4.5H-AI, ++ Tamron 70-210/3.8-4, Vivitar/Kiron 28/2, ser.1 70-210/3.5, ser.1 28-90; Vivitar/Komine and Samyang 28/2.8; 35mm Nikon F/FM/FE2, Rebel 2K...HTC RE UWA camera

  
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