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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 22 Jul 2008 (Tuesday) 08:59
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martinsmith
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Sep 01, 2008 10:17 |  #76

No that's good info. I know where to get precision engineered mounts. Theire pro range seem helluva pricey though. I see that they do mounts for specific EOS bodies. Do you know if they're really needed?

It'll be interesting to see how I get on with the MF lenses when they arrive, but I can see the advantage of using the A/M switch this way as you can focus and flick the switch very quickly without moving away from the camera to fing the aperture ring.


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pdccameras
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Sep 01, 2008 17:51 as a reply to  @ martinsmith's post |  #77

It'll be interesting to see how I get on with the MF lenses when they arrive, but I can see the advantage of using the A/M switch this way as you can focus and flick the switch very quickly without moving away from the camera to fing the aperture ring.[/QUOTE]

In theory yes, but sometimes the A/M switch is a little too close to the adapter, making it a little hard to grab hold of.

P.


pdccameras - 5DMII, 40D, 350D(IR MOD), 17-55 f/2.8 IS, 17-40L f/4, 28-70L f/2.8, 24-105 f/4 IS. 50mm f/1.4, 85L f/1.2, 85 f/1.8, 70-200L f/2.8 IS , 100mm f/2, 100mm f/2.8 Macro, 135L f/2.0, 300L f/4 IS, 400L f/5.6, 430 EX flash, TC 1.4X II

  
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pdccameras
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Sep 01, 2008 17:57 as a reply to  @ post 6217702 |  #78

I think you're better off getting a focusing screen, provided you're confident in your ability to install it. I've heard a couple of horror stories about the AF-confirm adapters totally destroying a camera's circuitry...for some reason, most often on 20d's. I think this is a very rare occurence, but it's still something to think about.[/QUOTE]


I have never heard of the AF confirm adapters harming a camera, but why take a chance? Also, I have heard from a number of sources the accuracy is none to precise. And let's face, many times we go with MF so we can use our large aperture (f/1.4, f/1.2, f/1.8) lenses - exactly the one's which require the most precise focus!

I use the slightly courser "S" screen on my 40D and an Olympus ME-1 1.2X magnifying eyecup (yes it fits Canon like a glove). Together this combo works very well for me. I can see even slower lens "snap" into focus. You lose a little brightness with the S screen, but it is a Canon product made for the 40D, so no danger, and very easy installation.


pdccameras - 5DMII, 40D, 350D(IR MOD), 17-55 f/2.8 IS, 17-40L f/4, 28-70L f/2.8, 24-105 f/4 IS. 50mm f/1.4, 85L f/1.2, 85 f/1.8, 70-200L f/2.8 IS , 100mm f/2, 100mm f/2.8 Macro, 135L f/2.0, 300L f/4 IS, 400L f/5.6, 430 EX flash, TC 1.4X II

  
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440roadrunner
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Sep 01, 2008 20:23 as a reply to  @ pdccameras's post |  #79
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I can't stand this anymore. Here's a few of my manual projects

My latest:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=11444 (external link)

Converting Minolta mount Sigma 600mm mirror lenses to EF:

The first lens:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=11381 (external link)

The second:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=11415 (external link)

Converting a Canon FD 200mm F8 to EF:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=7189 (external link)

The eight dollar deal:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=7987 (external link)

Converting one of the "eight dollar" lenses, a cheap, Minolta mount to EF zoom conversion:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=7990 (external link)

A "junker" Canon FL mount 28mm:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=9092 (external link)

Playing with a Polaroid

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=9091 (external link)

Rebuilding tripod on a budget:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=11056 (external link)

Couple 'o Nikkors from the thrift:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=11045 (external link)

Everybody needs a "Photosniper"

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=8691 (external link)

Using junk for telescope connectivity

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=8979 (external link)

More tripod rebuilding:

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=8815 (external link)

and the medium weight spread I later built a new spider for the center, and it's now MUCH more compact

http://forum.manualfoc​us.org/viewtopic.php?i​d=8920 (external link)


2-40D's, 30D, Xt, EOS-3, Elan7, ElanII 100-400L, 24-105L, 17-55IS 2.8, Sig 12-24 EX DG 4.5
Mamiya M645 1000S, 45mm 2.8, 80mm 1.9, 110mm 2.8 + 2x extender

  
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martinsmith
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Sep 02, 2008 07:00 |  #80

My 1st 2 lenses and adapters all arrived in the post today. I have a 28mm 2.8 Oly and a Zeiss 135mm 3.5 MC Sonnar. Really impressed with the 2 lenses so far although I've only taken snaps out of the window and my car head light. Contrast & sharpness on both lenses is great. Oly has great colour and needed no EC. There was a little CA though when I zoomed into 100%, nothing that PS can't handle but it's so minute that I don't see it being a problem unless big prints are required. The Zeiss has great bokeh and needs 1-2 stops negative EC. Both are built well.

Go Shot delivered in under a week to the UK. Great service. The adapter works as long as I don't go beyond F5.6. Then it's hit & miss. I can see I'm going to use it fairly wide anyway. My eyesight is good and I'm actually light sensitive so I can focus indoors even when the thing is stopped right down. Worst case scenario I can use live view on my 40D.

I'm going to get out before the rain starts again and get some snaps.


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martinsmith
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Sep 02, 2008 09:46 |  #81

pdccameras wrote in post #6221496 (external link)
I use the slightly courser "S" screen on my 40D and an Olympus ME-1 1.2X magnifying eyecup (yes it fits Canon like a glove). Together this combo works very well for me. I can see even slower lens "snap" into focus. You lose a little brightness with the S screen, but it is a Canon product made for the 40D, so no danger, and very easy installation.

I have a few different focus screens that came with my 40D. I stuck with the one that has all the grid lines on it. No idea which one it is, but I find it useful for composition.

Anyway, just got home and the British weather held up so managed to get some pics. I love the colours on the Oly. Zeiss is really good too, but 135 is not going to get as much use but I love the close focussing. I can see this being a flowers lens. Amazing bokeh.


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pdccameras
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Sep 02, 2008 19:46 |  #82

440roadrunner wrote in post #6222332 (external link)
I can't stand this anymore. Here's a few of my manual projects

Great projects! I really miss not having access to a lathe and milling machine.

I really love these old lenses. Even though I have some great L glass, the "plasticity", 3D appearance, bokeh, old style sharpness/contrast of the images you can get with the old glass is tough to replicate with modern optics.

I have found there are a few simple and cheap items necessary for these kind of projects:

-a sturdy bellows to add focus ability to med and large format barrel and lens-in-sutter optics

-t-mounts and reverse t-mounts to mount your lens to the bellows

-filter stack caps to use as lens boards. These are great because they are threaded making it easy to mount the lens to a bellows by using easily available filter step-up/down rings and macro adapters used to backwards mount a lens to a camera.

Here are a few of the projects I have completed (but haven't had the time to thoroughly test:

1) The front lens heads of the beautiful Leitz 135mm f/4.5 Hektor and 90mm f/4 Elmar M-mount lenses screw off for use on a reflex housing. It is a fairly simple matter to find adapters or simply modify an existing t-mount adapter to put the lens head on a bellows. The Hektor lens head is shown on a bellows ready for mounting on a 40D. Both the Hektor and the Elmar can be found on Ebay in nice shape for under $100 US.

2) The other lens is an old uncoated 150mm Heliar in shutter from a Voigtlander folding camera. I drilled a hole in a 67mm stack cap and mounted the lens. I attach the lens to the bellows by using filter step-down rings and Nikon 52mm macro reverse adapter.

Great fun!

Paul


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pdccameras - 5DMII, 40D, 350D(IR MOD), 17-55 f/2.8 IS, 17-40L f/4, 28-70L f/2.8, 24-105 f/4 IS. 50mm f/1.4, 85L f/1.2, 85 f/1.8, 70-200L f/2.8 IS , 100mm f/2, 100mm f/2.8 Macro, 135L f/2.0, 300L f/4 IS, 400L f/5.6, 430 EX flash, TC 1.4X II

  
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440roadrunner
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Sep 02, 2008 22:15 |  #83
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pdccameras wrote in post #6228991 (external link)
Great projects!...
-t-mounts and reverse t-mounts to mount your lens to the bellows...
Great fun!

Paul

Thanks, can you steer me to some info on a "reverse T mount?" I actually did a Google and eFray search one night, and came up with confusion. Sorta like Googleing "General Motors."

I dont understand what they are and what it gets you.


2-40D's, 30D, Xt, EOS-3, Elan7, ElanII 100-400L, 24-105L, 17-55IS 2.8, Sig 12-24 EX DG 4.5
Mamiya M645 1000S, 45mm 2.8, 80mm 1.9, 110mm 2.8 + 2x extender

  
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pdccameras
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Sep 03, 2008 06:42 |  #84

440roadrunner wrote in post #6229934 (external link)
Thanks, can you steer me to some info on a "reverse T mount?" I actually did a Google and eFray search one night, and came up with confusion. Sorta like Googleing "General Motors."

I dont understand what they are and what it gets you.


HI Roadrunner,

The reverse t-mount is an adapter with a proprietary lensmount on one end (ie. Nikon, Pentax, Miranda,... etc.) and a male T-Thread (M42 X 0.75) on the other end. Companies like Vivitar and Spriatone had bellows/macro systems which had a female T-thread on the front/lens end. So you only had to buy one bellows and reverse t-mounts rather then a separate bellows for each lens system you owned. This allowed you to use all your different lenses from different manufacturers on the same bellows. Here's a pic of a typical Vivitar reverse T-mount.

I have found you can use these handy adapters in a variety of ways for lens hacks and home brew projects. The nice thing about using t-rings, stack caps, macro adapters and the like is that sometimes you snap together a hack without having to do major surgery or modifications! This comes in real handy when you are working with lenses that have collector value or if you don't have a machine shop at your disposal.

Best,

Paul


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pdccameras - 5DMII, 40D, 350D(IR MOD), 17-55 f/2.8 IS, 17-40L f/4, 28-70L f/2.8, 24-105 f/4 IS. 50mm f/1.4, 85L f/1.2, 85 f/1.8, 70-200L f/2.8 IS , 100mm f/2, 100mm f/2.8 Macro, 135L f/2.0, 300L f/4 IS, 400L f/5.6, 430 EX flash, TC 1.4X II

  
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pdccameras
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Sep 03, 2008 06:49 |  #85

440roadrunner wrote in post #6229934 (external link)
Thanks, can you steer me to some info on a "reverse T mount?" I actually did a Google and eFray search one night, and came up with confusion. Sorta like Googleing "General Motors."

I dont understand what they are and what it gets you.


Here's one on Ebay for $ .99 cents!

http://cgi.ebay.com …ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcm​dZViewItem (external link)


pdccameras - 5DMII, 40D, 350D(IR MOD), 17-55 f/2.8 IS, 17-40L f/4, 28-70L f/2.8, 24-105 f/4 IS. 50mm f/1.4, 85L f/1.2, 85 f/1.8, 70-200L f/2.8 IS , 100mm f/2, 100mm f/2.8 Macro, 135L f/2.0, 300L f/4 IS, 400L f/5.6, 430 EX flash, TC 1.4X II

  
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440roadrunner
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Sep 03, 2008 15:55 |  #86
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Oh, very good, I finally "get it." I intend to build a spotting scope adapter to fit my Canon EF stuff. Only way I could figure to do so, and I "done so" was to buy one of the ultra ultra cheap extension tube sets on eFray. I have it now, and am working out how to build the eyepiece/ erector prism mount.

(Plueauze do not ask me WHY I do all this stuff!!)


2-40D's, 30D, Xt, EOS-3, Elan7, ElanII 100-400L, 24-105L, 17-55IS 2.8, Sig 12-24 EX DG 4.5
Mamiya M645 1000S, 45mm 2.8, 80mm 1.9, 110mm 2.8 + 2x extender

  
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martinsmith
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Oct 06, 2008 02:29 |  #87

Since I read this thread I'm now the owner of the following:
Olympus Zuiko 28mm F2.8, SMC Takumar 55mm F1.8, Volna 80mm F2.8, Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm F3.5, Osawa 400m F5.6 and a couple of 35mm cameras.


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ontopofm
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Oct 21, 2010 09:25 |  #88

[QUOTE=pdccameras;6141​489]

JPM Photography wrote in post #6139975 (external link)
so you can use any Pentax screwmount lens on the EOS with an adapter? There is no issue with the length to the sensor (or film plane), right?

If properly manufactured, all the M42-EOS adapters will allow your M42 lens to focus to infinity. The Canon EOS bodies are thinner than the old the M42 camera bodies, so there is no problem with back focus. Just look out for the really cheap adapters which may not be manufactured to the tightest tolerances.

Also, as I mentioned earlier there were tons of M42 lenses manufactured by and for companies like Zeiss, Exakta, Ricoh, Voigtlander, Mamiya, Pentax(Asahi), Fuji, Zenit, etc.

Pentax arguably made some of the best M42 screw mount lenses around and all of them can successfully be used on our Canon EOS bodies. There is a hitch, however. Pentax made several versions of their M42 mount. See photo one below. There were the old style plain M42 known as Takumars which had totally manual diaphragms. You would focus wide open, than manually stop the lens down to shooting aperture to meter, than shoot, than manually open the lens back up to wide open to focus your next image.

Next were the automatic diaphragm lenses known as Super Takumars. You would set your Auto/Man switch on the lens to Auto, focus and when you pressed the shutter a little lever inside the camera stopped the lens down to shooting aperture. When the shutter closed, a spring inside the lens opened back up to wide open for you. Unfortunately, if you wanted to meter the scene you had press a button on the side of the camera which momentarily stopped the lens down to your shooting aperture. When you turned off the meter, the lens opened back up to full aperture by itself. These lenses could also be switched to the MAN position for you to manually stop the lens down to check your depth of field.

The final incarnation of Pentax screw mount lenses were the Super Multicoated Takumars which not only had excellent multicoated lens elements (many made out of radioactive rare earth glass!) but also provisions for full aperture metering on the Spotmatic F and ES series of cameras. Now you could finally focus, meter and shoot at full aperture, with the lens only stopping down automatically to shooting aperture at the moment of exposure. This was really high-tech about 35 years ago!!!!

The point behind this long winded lecture on Pentax lenses is that there are M42 to EOS adapters out there which come with an internal ridge (see photo 2 below) which keeps the diaphragm pin on the back of the lens always pushed in . This is included because some manufacturers of M42 lenses did not include AUTO/MAN switches, so if you have no ridge on your EOS adapter with one of these lenses, you can only shoot the lens wide open!! If, on the other hand, you have the luck to find a nice SMC Takumar it has all sorts of junk stuck to its hind end which will interfere with that ridge. You need the adpater WITHOUT the stop down ridge to use these fine lenses. Also Mamiya and Ricoh lenses had some M42 lenses with weird stuff on them as well.

Bottom line, if your M42 golden oldie has no AUTO/MAN switch on it, you need the ridge, if it doesn't you don't need it.

Hope this helps!!!

Thank you so much for this info. I bought an adapter with the ridge for my Super Tak 50mm f/1.4 which has the stop down aperture :(. I ordered 3 more SMC lenses 50mm f/2, 135mm f/3.5, and 200mm f/4 from Keh.com which they listed in EX condition. With your info I now know which adapter to get.


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martinsmith
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Nov 14, 2010 07:24 |  #89

This thread is responsible for me now owning 50+ lenses. I suggest it's removed before I'm forced to rent storage! :D


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Fliger747
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Nov 14, 2010 19:36 |  #90

I used to carry Pentax and takumar primes around the arctic for years (on foot ot ski) and loved them dearly. With careful technique and ultra fine grain film (remember film) quite exquisite results were possible.

T




  
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200mm Prime f/4.0 for cheap!!
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