First TS-E

hhuy888 wrote in post #11291114
i used the ts-e 45 for 2 weeks and decided the lens was not for me. I feft it was an outdated lens and needed to be updated.
i also tried the ts-e 24L ii (for 10 minutes at the store) and saw it was indeed much better built and the manual focus ring moved like butter (not hard and making unsmooth sound like the 45mm). To me there was a clear difference built quality between the new 24L ii and the old design of 45mm.

I am debating if i should buy the ts-e 24L ii or wait until Canon update the ts-e 45mm and 90mm.

The 24mm seems like a lot of fun! Oh how I wish I had all of the money in the world so that I can buy these lenses I want.

i mainly shoot environmental portraits, really prefer the 45mm focal length. But i did not like the feel of focusing ring, neither liking the image quality i get from it after transfering into my computer.

Marloon wrote in post #11291152
The 24mm seems like a lot of fun! Oh how I wish I had all of the money in the world so that I can buy these lenses I want.

i don't have ALL THE MONEY IN THE WORLD ;D either; therefore, have to think really hard every time buying an L or expensive lens.

realmike15 wrote in post #11289245
No. One of the primary uses for a TS lens is to bring large buildings into perspective when you can't get the proper angle. Stop being such a stickler. Either that or you don't understand that "perspective" is a pretty broad term.

Yes, this.

Thanks, Quad and Mike K.

I'm considering an accessory that allows counter-shifting the body. I'll check out what you recommended. I recall reading about this counter-shifting before. But the other day, I just took two overlapping shots - one with 10mm shift to left and one with 10mm shift to right while the camera was horizontally aimed at a scene. Using PS, I stitched the two images and they looked quite alright to me. I checked the overlap region at 100% and could not fault it really. Did I miss something? Still I got a bit of vignetting but was able to imrove it with PS.

When I asked in my previous post about combing the shift function with tilting the camera, I didn't mean tilting the lens. I meant rotating the camera/tripod head around the tripod's axis (as aome may do when using any other lens) to get further on both sides of the image. I guess the best way is to try and see how it turns out.

Here is a great video I saw today on what TS can do, especially for video, but it applies to still also.

http://canoncaravan.st​illmotionblog.com …u-by-canon-live-learning/

I'm partial to the 17 or 24, for the reasons that hhuy888 has pointed out. If it's landscapes or environmental portraits you're after, do consider these lenses.

Marloon wrote in post #11291140
It all depends on what you are shooting. I use the 45mm for portraits. It also doubles as a product lens.

Tell us what you shoot, and we will help you decide

I like shooting a bit of everything. Just as an example, I do like this guys use of the the TS-E lens... he seems to make sure of it from everything to his kids sports games, to parties, and even weddings.

http://www.iamaposer.c​om/?paged=2

actprivate wrote in post #11292408
Thanks, Quad and Mike K.

I'm considering an accessory that allows counter-shifting the body. I'll check out what you recommended. I recall reading about this counter-shifting before. But the other day, I just took two overlapping shots - one with 10mm shift to left and one with 10mm shift to right while the camera was horizontally aimed at a scene. Using PS, I stitched the two images and they looked quite alright to me. I checked the overlap region at 100% and could not fault it really. Did I miss something? Still I got a bit of vignetting but was able to imrove it with PS.

When I asked in my previous post about combing the shift function with tilting the camera, I didn't mean tilting the lens. I meant rotating the camera/tripod head around the tripod's axis (as aome may do when using any other lens) to get further on both sides of the image. I guess the best way is to try and see how it turns out.

To counter shift you might try this:

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_Positioning_Sl​iding.html

If you happen to use the Gitzo QR system (not real popular but I use it) this is a lighter, more compact, not as precise but easier to use.

http://www.adorama.com​/GZGS5370LC.html


You can rotate the head. It is more useful with longer lenses (ie the 90) but you can shift up do a standard pan swing with the head, shift down and repeat. I figure the you need to set the 90 back 77mm. To figure out what be best set back is put a light stand near your camera and use it to aim at something distant, move the pan head and see if they move relative to each other. Pan left distant object moves left you are too far back and vice versa.

edit see this tutorial

http://dgrin.smugmug.c​om/gallery/2114189

realmike15 wrote in post #11293259
I like shooting a bit of everything. Just as an example, I do like this guys use of the the TS-E lens... he seems to make sure of it from everything to his kids sports games, to parties, and even weddings.

http://www.iamaposer.c​om/?paged=2

wonderful photographer ! it looked like he mixed a lot of 24mm 1.4 ii with the ts-e 24 ii. (correct me if i am wrong)

I own the TS-E 24II and part of my late fall/early winter tasks is to utilize it a lot more. I have been on the 24II way way way too much (and I love it...) but the TS-E 24II offers unparalleled flare control, distortion control, and selective focus. It can make an ordinary scene that much more amazing.

hhuy888 wrote in post #11293770
wonderful photographer ! it looked like he mixed a lot of 24mm 1.4 ii with the ts-e 24 ii. (correct me if i am wrong)

His gear list seems to suggest he uses the Canon TS-E 45mm f2.8, but who knows maybe it's not up to date. It's a tough decision for me, I've got the Zeiss Makro-Planar ZE f/2 50mm at the top of my list... so I'm probably better off going with the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II or TS-E 90mm f/2.8 since the TS-E 45mm might be really redundant with the Zeiss 50mm (considering I'd have (2) 50mm and (1) 45mm)

JonK wrote in post #11293941
I own the TS-E 24II and part of my late fall/early winter tasks is to utilize it a lot more. I have been on the 24II way way way too much (and I love it...) but the TS-E 24II offers unparalleled flare control, distortion control, and selective focus. It can make an ordinary scene that much more amazing.

I'm just curious, do you feel it's redundant having TS-E lenses and Primes in the same focal length? I know with the 24mm they are different apertures, but do you feel like each offers enough distinctive benefits to keep both?

realmike15 wrote in post #11294158
I'm just curious, do you feel it's redundant having TS-E lenses and Primes in the same focal length? I know with the 24mm they are different apertures, but do you feel like each offers enough distinctive benefits to keep both?

I have a bit of redundancy in wide angle line up. Do I care if it's redundant? Nope! I'm a wide angle enthusiast and love it. All my lenses serve a different purpose.

realmike15 wrote in post #11294158
I'm just curious, do you feel it's redundant having TS-E lenses and Primes in the same focal length? I know with the 24mm they are different apertures, but do you feel like each offers enough distinctive benefits to keep both?

I have 4 different lenses that "do" 24mm. Redundancy isn't a real concern for me.

Oh, and the TS-E 24mm II is the best of them @ 24mm.