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Thread started 27 Nov 2010 (Saturday) 08:23
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Better than Eneloops?

 
JC4
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Nov 27, 2010 08:23 |  #1

I ordered a few sets of PowerGenix NiZn (Zinc based) rechargeables to give them a go. Their claim is 1.6v (vs 1.2 for NiMh) and highdrain. I've been VERY happy with the performance of Eneloops. I get 300-700 pops out of a charge, they don't self drain, recycle doesn't slow down after a few pops like Alkalines, They recycle faster than Alkalines(a lot faster), they don't heat up like Lithiums.

Still, always looking for something better. A few devices can't live with 1.2 volts, like PocketWizzards TT5's.

No field testing with the NiZn's yet, but I just did a stopwatch test the blew me away.
580ex-II on manual / full power. I press the pilot button, start the watch, wait for the light to glow red stop the watch. Eneloops, 2.79 seconds, and holds pretty steady, even after a dozen pops in a row. The PowerGenix's, 1.64 seconds, and hold steady, even after a dozen pops in a row(no rest). The NiZn's came out a bit warmer, but not HOT like Lithium's.

WARNING I ran a dozen pops again, to confirm my results before posting. My 580 is DEAD. At first it would power on, but not charge. Now, after a cooldown, it won't even power on. Smells burnt too. So, I've killed it. The batteries are better, but, more than the flash can handle. :(


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D ­ Thompson
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Nov 27, 2010 09:04 |  #2

JC4 wrote in post #11352882 (external link)
WARNING I ran a dozen pops again, to confirm my results before posting. My 580 is DEAD. At first it would power on, but not charge. Now, after a cooldown, it won't even power on. Smells burnt too. So, I've killed it. The batteries are better, but, more than the flash can handle. :(

It's not necessarily the batteries, but the number of consecutive flashes. Check out the warning on page 7 of the manual.


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mitchman
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Nov 27, 2010 09:13 |  #3

I took Sly Arena's Speedliting class and he talked about this. He said that NiMH batteries come in two types. Slow drain and fast output fast drain. He said that if you shoot weddings or something we're you're popping the flash very frequently that they will recharge the flash faster. But he also said that they will cause overheating if you're not careful and burn up your speedlite.

Sorry this happened to you. Next time stick with the Eneloops or PowerEX.


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JC4
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Nov 27, 2010 09:16 |  #4

D Thompson wrote in post #11353011 (external link)
It's not necessarily the batteries, but the number of consecutive flashes. Check out the warning on page 7 of the manual.

That's why I stop testing after a dozen. Its enough pops to significantly slow Alkaline's, and prove to me NiMh's (and now NiZn's) are a lot faster, but not enough to overheat the flash.(according to the manual, 20)

However, my flash did NOT comeback after 15 minutes(indicated on page 7), or even still(just rechecked). Its dead, tried a couple sets of batteries. Nothing on the LCD at all. So, either a coincidence, or the speed of the batteries allowed the flash to cook, before the thermal protection circuit could engage.

There is a chance its a coincidence. This unit was recently repaired by Canon, it was only pre-flashing. They replaced the flash-tube and PCB. So, if it the new PCB was defective, its only a few weeks old, but it has been worked the past few weeks.


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Nov 27, 2010 09:36 |  #5

JC4 wrote in post #11353055 (external link)
That's why I stop testing after a dozen. Its enough pops to significantly slow Alkaline's, and prove to me NiMh's (and now NiZn's) are a lot faster, but not enough to overheat the flash.(according to the manual, 20)

I wonder if you can do fewer pops before the damage happens since it is recycling almost twice as fast?


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isoMorphic
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Nov 27, 2010 09:39 |  #6

These batteries can deliver more power but they can't be charged properly in a standard charger.

As for your flash it's probably a resistor or diode that burned up which is not hard to fix. If it's out of warranty and your considering sending it for repair there is no risk to open it yourself. They will have to disassemble to make the repair anyway so you can send it in parts if needed. Once you have the circuit in your hand you should clearly see which component is burned.




  
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JC4
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Nov 27, 2010 09:43 |  #7

D Thompson wrote in post #11353119 (external link)
I wonder if you can do fewer pops before the damage happens since it is recycling almost twice as fast?

I would think so, but have no idea how to test if any internal damage is being done, with say the first 5 pops. In a work environment, that would be plenty in rapid succession. Just no way to determine how much you're shortening the life of the flash. Myself, I'm done with the NiZn's unless Canon puts better thermal protection in their speedlites. I just can't stay that aware of how many consecutive pops, and cool down time, while working. I'd come to depend on it, and overshoot the limit, for sure. Best to stick with the eneloops, and time my shots within their recycle limits.
edit: mis-read your question. You were probably asking if the manual's stated 20 was based on slower Alkaline's. Yup, probably. Still the manual says a thermal protector kicks in. That didn't happen. :(

I was excited to see the 1.67 second time though. Man, that was fast. Faster than eneloops with an external pack.

These batteries can deliver more power but they can't be charged properly in a standard charger.

As for your flash it's probably a resistor or diode that burned up which is not hard to fix. If it's out of warranty and your considering sending it for repair there is no risk to open it yourself. They will have to disassemble to make the repair anyway so you can send it in parts if needed. Once you have the circuit in your hand you should clearly see which component is burned.

Correct, special charger, takes 4+ hours to charge 4 of them.

Just back from repair, and under a year old, so its covered, but thanks for the tip.


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SYS
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Nov 27, 2010 22:29 |  #8

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …offer-lightning-fast.html (external link)



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JC4
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Nov 28, 2010 08:17 |  #9

Bunch of crap, along with some good info/posts. Near the end someone had a similar experience to mine, and the same conclusion. Not worth the risk. I won't be putting them in the rest of my speedlites, and possibly not using them in any electronic device.


quote from post:

Russ MacDonald said...
Well, it's interesting that there are so many EE's here. I am also an EE, and I used to design chips for flashes.

Anyway, I have never seen so much erroneous information published about any subject until I started reading about which batteries to use in the SB-900 flash. That You-Tube video is so far out in left field, I wouldn't even no how to begin to critique it.

The reason I'm posting is because I just got some NiZn batteries to use in one of my SB-800 flashes. I am now a wedding photographer, and I figured from what I knew about flashes that these new batteries would really speed up the cycle rate a lot.

I was right! It recycled at an enormous rate!! Full power dumps recycled in under 2 seconds! 100 shots into a reception, I thought I had found nirvana.

Then, the flash quit working. It just shut off.

I'm fairly sure the main switching regulator devices in the voltage multiplier were not the failure point. They are so big and heavy duty, I don't think that the extra voltage or current could hurt them. They would just charge the capacitor up more quicly - much more quickly.

I am speculating that the support circuits were designed for 1.5 volts max. However, NiZn batteries jump up to almost 1.8 volts when lightly loaded; like right after the capacitor is fully charged and the switching regulator shuts off.

I think 1.8 volts could 'punch the oxide' in the CMOS clock or uP other low voltage control chips that run the flash.

In any case, my flash quit working and I sent it to Nikon NPS to be fixed. I will ask them to tell me what parts failed.

In the mean time, I won't be using NiZn in any of my other flashes until I find out if my experience was just bad luck, or there really is a significant risk with NiZn batteries.

Russ


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Nov 28, 2010 08:23 |  #10

I agree, if the batteries were > 1.5v per AA, then the higher voltage will force a higher current through the flash, and chances are this will eventually destroy something down the road. I = V/R, and if V > 1.5, I is greater, correct? :(


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Nov 28, 2010 09:40 |  #11

Copying my post elsewhere some while back:

This Amazon.com user named NLee the Engineer does a lot of battery (and charger) reviews and often do comparative studies of them. Here's what he says about the NiZinc batteries:

"The greatest selling feature of NiZn cell is its higher terminal voltage. The nominal operating voltage of NiZn is 1.65V, which is very close to alkaline and 30% higher than NiMH (1.25V nominal). However, when freshly charged, the NiZn terminal voltage is around 1.85V, which is dangerously high for most battery-operated appliances. So if you like to try those cells in your digital camera, make sure that the latter is still covered by warranty.....

...In summary: While the higher voltage offered by PowerGenix NiZn cells sounds attractive, it could damage or shorten the life span of your battery-operated appliances. In addition, NiZn cell does not pack more energy than eneloop NiMH cell, yet it suffers from lower cycle life and higher self-discharge rate. So unless you are desperately looking for higher voltage rechargeable batteries, there are really no reasons to take your chances with those cells."

And here's his comparative review that you might be interested in reading: Showdown: PowerGenix NiZn vs. SANYO eneloop NiMH:

http://www.amazon.com …/member-...#RQFY1NUK4L58V (external link)
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Nov 28, 2010 13:17 |  #12

Your link is bad, it appears you copied the text of a link and not the link target itself. :)


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Nov 28, 2010 15:28 |  #13

TeamSpeed wrote in post #11358754 (external link)
Your link is bad, it appears you copied the text of a link and not the link target itself. :)

Here's the good link:

http://www.amazon.com …ics&qid=1290979​606&sr=8-1 (external link)

See the first review, by NLee the Engineer....



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lapiqurestudios
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Nov 28, 2010 16:57 |  #14

JC4 wrote in post #11352882 (external link)
I ordered a few sets of PowerGenix NiZn (Zinc based) rechargeables to give them a go. Their claim is 1.6v (vs 1.2 for NiMh) and highdrain. I've been VERY happy with the performance of Eneloops. I get 300-700 pops out of a charge, they don't self drain, recycle doesn't slow down after a few pops like Alkalines, They recycle faster than Alkalines(a lot faster), they don't heat up like Lithiums.

Still, always looking for something better. A few devices can't live with 1.2 volts, like PocketWizzards TT5's.

No field testing with the NiZn's yet, but I just did a stopwatch test the blew me away.
580ex-II on manual / full power. I press the pilot button, start the watch, wait for the light to glow red stop the watch. Eneloops, 2.79 seconds, and holds pretty steady, even after a dozen pops in a row. The PowerGenix's, 1.64 seconds, and hold steady, even after a dozen pops in a row(no rest). The NiZn's came out a bit warmer, but not HOT like Lithium's.

WARNING I ran a dozen pops again, to confirm my results before posting. My 580 is DEAD. At first it would power on, but not charge. Now, after a cooldown, it won't even power on. Smells burnt too. So, I've killed it. The batteries are better, but, more than the flash can handle. :(


hahahahahahaha


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klr.b
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Nov 28, 2010 18:15 |  #15

lapiqurestudios wrote in post #11359743 (external link)
hahahahahahaha

:rolleyes: Thanks for posting. Next time you post about breaking your equipment, we'll all come in and laugh at you. Oh, and we won't offer any advice on fixing it, either. Sound fair?

John (JC4), there's been a few warnings against using these in flashes in the lighting forum. Thanks for trying to review these, but I wish you searched first. Some people have had success in using these in external battery packs, but don't put them in the body of your expensive flashes. Glad to see that you're still covered under warranty.


gordon
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