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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Astronomy & Celestial 
Thread started 20 Dec 2010 (Monday) 15:17
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First Attempt at Stacking

 
J-RoN
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Dec 20, 2010 15:17 |  #1

My first try using DSS to stack images. CC please!!!

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5278520412_bc0cbb337b_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/57133787@N02/5​278520412/  (external link)
First Attempt at DSS Orion (external link) by J-RoN (external link), on Flickr

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tkerr
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Dec 20, 2010 16:33 |  #2

What kind of post processing did you do after stacking?

How many frames stacked, and what were your exposures?


Tim Kerr
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J-RoN
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Dec 20, 2010 18:59 as a reply to  @ tkerr's post |  #3

Off the top of my head the only PP done was a slight boost in saturation and contrast, and a mid % boost in DSS before sending it to CS2.

Exif Data was 30 X 5 lights and 15 darks.

f/3.5 800 ISO at 18mm.


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tkerr
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Dec 20, 2010 23:43 |  #4

J-RoN wrote in post #11487275 (external link)
Off the top of my head the only PP done was a slight boost in saturation and contrast, and a mid % boost in DSS before sending it to CS2.

Exif Data was 30 X 5 lights and 15 darks.

f/3.5 800 ISO at 18mm.

Is that 30 x 5 seconds. 5 seconds isn't nearly enough. At 18mm you should be able to get some nice 25 to 30 second exposures before noticing any drift in the stars.

After stacking in DSS save All you PP for Photoshop. Just save the file to a 16 bit tiff, and where you select with Changes Embedded or Applied, Select With Changes Embedded. Applying any changes whether you actually make any or not in DSS can destroy image data. It uses Destructive Pixel Editing.
And when in Photoshop you really don't want to adjust the saturation, if you do you need to be very careful or you can posterize the colors. Instead you want to start by a simple histogram stretch using Levels and or Curves adjustment. You should always work with layers starting with a layer copy so you don't do any actual editing on the original image until absolutely necessary. Using adjustment layers will work better in a non-destructive way.


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J-RoN
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Dec 21, 2010 08:33 as a reply to  @ tkerr's post |  #5

That's great help because that was definitely one of my major questions whether to embed the changes or apply them.
And yeah I should have had longer exposures, but since it was a test I didn't want to spend too long doing it to find out that it wasn't going to work with the foreground objects. My next time trying I'll definitely be using much longer exposures. But as far as cropping and such, do you think I'd be able to crop and pull out detail using the curves and levels from this, or do you think there won't be much there because the exposure wasn't long enough? I'll be trying it anyway, I just want to see what you think first before I try pulling things that aren't actually there?

My other question now that I just thought about it was how do you get DSS to stack more images, the first few times I tried it would tell me it was only stacking 2 or 3 images, and I had to keep increasing the star detection to get it to take more, is that normal for it to not stack all the images and is there a way to prevent it from doing that?

Thank you for the help though I definitely appreciate it.


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tkerr
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Dec 21, 2010 11:12 |  #6

J-RoN wrote in post #11490412 (external link)
That's great help because that was definitely one of my major questions whether to embed the changes or apply them.
And yeah I should have had longer exposures, but since it was a test I didn't want to spend too long doing it to find out that it wasn't going to work with the foreground objects. My next time trying I'll definitely be using much longer exposures. But as far as cropping and such, do you think I'd be able to crop and pull out detail using the curves and levels from this, or do you think there won't be much there because the exposure wasn't long enough? I'll be trying it anyway, I just want to see what you think first before I try pulling things that aren't actually there?

If your exposures are good enough, once you have stacked them you can pull out all kinds of detail when you stretch the histogram with levels and curves. But you have to have good enough exposure with good SNR.

J-RoN wrote in post #11490412 (external link)
My other question now that I just thought about it was how do you get DSS to stack more images, the first few times I tried it would tell me it was only stacking 2 or 3 images, and I had to keep increasing the star detection to get it to take more, is that normal for it to not stack all the images and is there a way to prevent it from doing that?

Thank you for the help though I definitely appreciate it.

There are a couple things that effect how many light frames DSS is going to stack. Both are in the Register Settings that you can get to after you "Check All" and then click "Register Checked Pictures"
First is under the actions tab. Check all three actions then select the best percentage of frames you want stacked after registering. If you want them all stacked adjust it to 100%.
Second is under the Advanced Tab and is probably more important. That is the Star detection threshold. If you can see lots of stars in each light frame you can set that to a higher number, but in short exposures with relatively few stars visible you will want to set that to a much lower number. For your exposures I would probably adjust it all the way down to 2%.

Here is a little help for DSLR astrophotography
http://www.scribd.com …y=key-gnoflczzrljkxl1qzzd (external link)


Tim Kerr
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F1, try it you'll like it.

  
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J-RoN
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Dec 22, 2010 19:54 as a reply to  @ tkerr's post |  #7

Thanks man I will be restacking them and playing with the curves and levels later tonight and I'll post up a new pic when its done.


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Bolter303
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Dec 22, 2010 22:58 |  #8

Sorry for the question what is DSS? Is that a stacking program?


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Casper ­ Smit
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Dec 23, 2010 09:37 |  #9

Startrails.de software stacks pics one on top of the other and the resultant image shows the movement of the stars as trails

Deep Sky Stacker (DSS) identifies the stars in each consecutive frame and rotates the frame for the stars to line up, in the resultant image the very faint stars shows (which is normaly not visible). This alows one to get some good images without expensive astro tracking equipment

See this thread on how I was introduced to the proper use of DSS and further processing of the resultant images:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=913657

I now use this guide to stack
http://www.asignobserv​atory.com …=article&id=84&​Itemid=125 (external link)

and the Part 2 (Photoshop) of this guide to tweak
http://astrochat.co.uk​/forum/viewtopic.php?t​=13241 (external link)

hope this helps


Casper B Smit

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J-RoN
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Dec 28, 2010 10:35 as a reply to  @ Casper Smit's post |  #10

Hey guys sry I haven't replied in a while.

These are great, the second guide I already had but the other two will help a lot.
I got the telescope attachments for christmas so hopefully I'll be able to get some extremely good images.


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