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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre People Talk 
Thread started 14 Jan 2011 (Friday) 23:32
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Indoor photos, by a brand new amateur, wondering what I did wrong?

 
BDMcGrew
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Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ
     
Jan 14, 2011 23:32 |  #1

Hello all!

I took a few shots of some musicians at church tonight and I'm wondering what I did so wrong that things just don't look right? Keep in mind, I'm really green and new at this!

My biggest concern is the lighting (which was horrible) and the sharpness/softness. I mean some of them are so bad I had to convert them to black and white.

All shot with a T2i and an EF 50mm f/1.8 USM and because of the event, it was requested I not flash.

Where'd I go wrong? Looking for input, megabytes of input!

I put them all up here: http://s821.photobucke​t.com …cGrew/RSHOP%200​1-14-2011/ (external link)

(Is Photobucket even a good place to park pictures, or do they do a kill-all compression?)

Thanks!


-brian (lake havasu city, az)
> 5D3 | 7D | 10D | 24-70/L | 85/1.8 | 50/1.4 | 20/2.8 | 100/2.8 | 430exII | ST-E2

  
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mtnbkr1
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Jan 14, 2011 23:35 |  #2

exif data shows iso 200 and shutter 1/50~1/100. You could have gone with iso 400 or 800 to get that shutter up. Also f/1.4 is rather shallow dof, so focusing could be hard. Maybe stop down a bit? That would also requre a higher iso


5Dc | 85L | 1200 f5.6L | Lighting

  
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egordon99
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Jan 15, 2011 09:46 as a reply to  @ mtnbkr1's post |  #3

Shutter speed too slow, you missed focus, and the white balance is off. The good news is that this can all be fixed with your current equipment, so you don't need to buy anything else!




  
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egordon99
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Jan 15, 2011 09:47 as a reply to  @ egordon99's post |  #4

I'd say that room was REALLY bright if you were able to achieve 1/50s at f/1.4 and ISO200!




  
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BDMcGrew
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Jan 15, 2011 10:36 |  #5

Thank you all three for your input. I didn't think the room seemed the bright, but now that you mention it, we have some generic Home Depot tract lighting hanging over the stage and indeed, that lighting was on.

I understand why I'd want to go with a higher f/Stop, for better depth of field, right?

But I'm not quite wrapping my head around why I'd want to go with a higher ISO and faster shutter speed?

I ask that question, not out of sheer ignorance, but because "the guy" at the local camera shop made it seem like as long as my shutter was >= my focal length then I shouldn't get blurring and that the lower the ISO, the less grain the image will pick up?

Thanks again,

(PS>>> Yes, I missed focus! I have very, very bad eyes and was using the viewfinder instead of turning on LiveView).


-brian (lake havasu city, az)
> 5D3 | 7D | 10D | 24-70/L | 85/1.8 | 50/1.4 | 20/2.8 | 100/2.8 | 430exII | ST-E2

  
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egordon99
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Jan 15, 2011 10:42 as a reply to  @ BDMcGrew's post |  #6

You want a faster shutter speed to "freeze" the motion. You can easily see motion blur in many of those shots. The 1/focal length "rule" is ONLY to prevent "camera shake" from YOU moving, NOT the subjects. Obviously, you're not going to get a sharp shot of someone running really fast at 1/30s with a 30mm lens.

As for the ISO, a noisy but clear shot is WAY better than a blurry shot caused by too slow of a shutter speed. Raising the ISO allows you to use a faster shutter speed.

Instead of listening to the "guy" at the photo store, I would pick up and read Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure".




  
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BDMcGrew
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Jan 15, 2011 11:28 |  #7

Ah, thank you! I've been searching for a good book, but I guess I've been searching for the wrong kind of book --- like how to's and such! This book seems what I want and has excellent reviews. And, is loading on my Kindle right now!

Thanks! That'll probably learn me more than a month of posting here!


-brian (lake havasu city, az)
> 5D3 | 7D | 10D | 24-70/L | 85/1.8 | 50/1.4 | 20/2.8 | 100/2.8 | 430exII | ST-E2

  
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bobbyz
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Jan 15, 2011 23:41 |  #8

1. Focus. Doesn't seem to be on the face. Assuming lens/camera is ok it is operator error. It could be 50mm f1.8 lens as it is slow lens to focus in low light situations. How are you focussing? It is not DOF issue. You can take same shot at f1.4 and still have it sharp. Lot of folks says DOF when it is bad focus.

2. Use higher ISO. I would start with atleast ISO400 or even ISO640. Underexposure shows all king of noise issues.

3. Bounced flash would have helped a lot. But you mentioned no flash allowed in this case.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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BDMcGrew
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Jan 16, 2011 08:17 |  #9

Thanks Bobby!

It's all operator error! The camera and lens are fine and a friend who is a pro took some great shots with it. I'm still learning!

-b


-brian (lake havasu city, az)
> 5D3 | 7D | 10D | 24-70/L | 85/1.8 | 50/1.4 | 20/2.8 | 100/2.8 | 430exII | ST-E2

  
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bobbyz
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Jan 16, 2011 12:29 |  #10

BDMcGrew wrote in post #11651225 (external link)
Thanks Bobby!

It's all operator error! The camera and lens are fine and a friend who is a pro took some great shots with it. I'm still learning!

-b

That's good. Just practice more and your shots will improve.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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shoturtle
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Jan 16, 2011 12:35 |  #11

kick up you iso to 1600-3200, that will increase your shutter, stop down to f2.8-4, and take the camera off auto white balance and pick the type of light that is there, or use live view and judge which wb setting is most correct.


Traveling is my passion, so I am a major Frequent Flyer.
Canon 60D, T1i/500D, Eos 1, Eos 630, and Olympus epl-1. Current Canon Lenses ef 100 2.8, ef 85 1.8, ef 50 1.4, ef 28 1.8, ef 50 1.8,ef 28-135, ef 70-300, ef-s 18-55, ef-s 55-250, 500D close up lens. Current Olympus lenses oly m4/3 14-42, oly 4/3 35mm 3.5 macro with m4/3 adapter, panasonic 45-200, panasonic 20 1.7. And a Part time Pentax K-X shooter.

  
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SASman
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Jan 17, 2011 11:49 |  #12

ISO 1600 is absolutely great on that camera. Don't be afraid to use it ;)


Gear: The cheapest things I can find! :D | My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/​scribblesonfilm (external link)

  
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BDMcGrew
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Jan 17, 2011 14:36 |  #13

Thank you, I'll give it a try!


-brian (lake havasu city, az)
> 5D3 | 7D | 10D | 24-70/L | 85/1.8 | 50/1.4 | 20/2.8 | 100/2.8 | 430exII | ST-E2

  
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JonnyRay
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Jan 18, 2011 23:17 |  #14

Also, if you have photo shop or light room you should be taking your photos in RAW format. You can adjust the white balance and exposure in the software after you've taken it. But yes, I would also agree to step up the ISO. ISO 400 or 800 would have brought the shutter speed to around 1/200th in most of your cases, which would freeze your subject well.


5D mark II, 24-105L, 16-35LII, Sigma 85mm f1.4, 70-300IS, 100mm Macro, 580EX II,

  
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AntonLargiader
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Jan 25, 2011 09:02 |  #15

The guy at the shop was right in a way - looking at the shots, I see very little camera shake - but camera shake wasn't your problem. I mostly see DOF limitations and motion blur. Your way-too-low ISO forced you into the slow shutter and wide aperture that caused these. If I were to go there (after having the benefit of seeing your shots) I'd probably be thinking f/4 or smaller and 1/200 or faster. Then see where the ISO lands.

Will you be shooting there again in the future? You might try taking some shots of the whole room, with the lights on, to see if you have a mismatch in color temp from the different lights. If so, you'll have to think about that when you're taking no-flash shots to try to limit your shots to one primary illumination source.


T2i . 18-55 IS . 70-300 IS USM . 70-200 2.8L IS . 28mm 1.8 . 100 Macro . 430EX II . TT1/TT5 . Bogen/Manfrotto 3021 w/3265 ball-mount

  
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Indoor photos, by a brand new amateur, wondering what I did wrong?
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