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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 04 Oct 2010 (Monday) 12:58
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Meike MK-RC7 2.4Ghz wireless trigger (Yungnuo RF-602 Clone)

 
Wavy ­ C
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Location: Belfast, Northern Ireland
     
Jan 06, 2011 12:27 |  #76

Thanks Lannes, I will get some better batteries and see if that might improve things.

The AAA batteries that come with the triggers appear to be a cheap type but I assumed they were okay because they do function (eg, light up the led signal lights on both the transmitter and receiver). And, of course, they do actually fire the flash sometimes! (just not in a reliable way)



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Wavy ­ C
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Jan 07, 2011 06:18 |  #77

I'd be interested to know how other users of these triggers set the dip-switches.

The are four dip-switches on both the transmitter and receiver units, which I guess are designed for complex muli flash setups where the user can enable or disable certain flashes from the camera position. Also, possibly in a situation where one transmitter is being used to remotely fire a camera fitted with another transmitter to fire off-camera flashes.

I'd assumed it didn't really matter how the switches were set as long as those on both the transmitter and receiver were in the same position. So I set them with two switches up and two down (just a random choice).

After playing around a bit more, however, I'm now wondering if this might be why I was getting very poor performance from my triggers. (see the above post where I explained that I was having many missed shots where the flash didn't fire). I tried some other combinations of dip-switch settings and found this improved things a lot.

Perhaps I was getting some kind of interference (from wi-fi etc) on the initial frequency I had set, and this was the reason behind the misfires. Will have to do a bit more testing later on, but changing the dip-switches certainly appears to have helped - just after taking about 30 test shots and no misfires at all!



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dannyss
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Jan 07, 2011 07:33 |  #78

My belief was that the dip switches allowed you to select different frequencies. allowing you to pick one that isn't being interfered by other devices around you.


1D MK IV, 24-105mm L, 15mm, 50mm f1.8II
Sony Nex-5,16mm
1D,40D-gripped,50-f1.8II,28-135mm,Zenitar 16, FD500mm mirror (All lost to fire :()
A-1, FD50-f1.8, FD100-300mm

  
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kwando
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Jan 07, 2011 08:16 |  #79

I've never changed mine, they are still in the default all down position


~Simon~
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https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1213134

  
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Wavy ­ C
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Jan 07, 2011 10:20 |  #80

dannyss wrote in post #11591022 (external link)
My belief was that the dip switches allowed you to select different frequencies. allowing you to pick one that isn't being interfered by other devices around you.

Yes, I think you might be correct. I assumed the dip switches were mainly for times when, for example, if you had two remote flashes you could fire one and then the other by changing the switches on the transmitter (from the camera position). Didnt realise it might be to help avoid interference from other devices.

I still need to test further but changing the switch positions appears to have greatly reduced misfires on my units.



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Wavy ­ C
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Jan 07, 2011 10:25 |  #81

kwando wrote in post #11591213 (external link)
I've never changed mine, they are still in the default all down position

Thanks for that. The instructions mention that when all the switches are down then the transmitter is put into the 'fire all' mode. I assume this means when they are all down on the transmitter it will fire remote receivers even if switches on them are in a different position.

Perhaps it puts the transmitter on a wider frequency and that's what improves the misfires?



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botw
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Jan 13, 2011 10:23 |  #82

I just got a set of these. They work fine with my 40d and 580ex, but I cannot get them to trigger my YN 460 (even by manually depressing the trigger on the receiver). Anyone know if the 460 is incompatible for some reason?

(Using freshly charged eneloops btw. Packaged batteries were DOA - or near to it)


www.gc5photography.com (external link)

  
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dannyss
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Jan 13, 2011 12:06 |  #83

There's been more and more reports of malfunctionning RX units lately. Are they having problems with production? Are they more prone to flash voltage variances than the RF-602s?
LinkDelight sent me an email yesterday telling me they got the defective ones and wanted to know if I wanted them replaced? I told them yes, so another 2 weeks before I get them.


1D MK IV, 24-105mm L, 15mm, 50mm f1.8II
Sony Nex-5,16mm
1D,40D-gripped,50-f1.8II,28-135mm,Zenitar 16, FD500mm mirror (All lost to fire :()
A-1, FD50-f1.8, FD100-300mm

  
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lannes
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Jan 13, 2011 20:18 |  #84

It looks like there are compatibility issues with 3rd party flashes


1Dx, 1DM4, 5DM2, 7D, EOS-M, 8-15L, 17-40L, 24 TSE II, 24-105L, 50L, 85L II, 100L, 135L, 200L f/2.8, 300L f/4, 70-200L II, 70-300L, 400Lf/5.6

  
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npompei
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Jan 14, 2011 08:52 |  #85

Mine worked flawlessly the other night during a shoot of 2 430exii's. I have a 3rd party flash coming soon so I will let you guys know how it works.


www.nickpompei.com (external link)
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Canon 5d3-gripped / Canon 5d / Canon EOS M / Phottix Mitros + (3) / Tamron 17-35 (2.8-4.0) / Tamron 28-75 (2.8) / Canon 35L / Canon 50 (1.4) / Sigma 85 (1.4) / Canon 70-200(2.8)IS

  
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kwando
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Jan 17, 2011 00:34 |  #86

Any update on using them with 3rd party flashes?


~Simon~
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https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1213134

  
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bruceq
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Jan 17, 2011 08:49 as a reply to  @ kwando's post |  #87

Mine are flawless with the 430EX/580EX and one old Quantaray. They don’t however work with my Quantaray QDC900WA’s or older 430EZ. It appears the resistance drop across the main pin is not enough to trigger them.

I sent an email to Link Delight last weekend and they're response seems to indicate the receivers they are shipping now will work with 3rd party flashes. They offered to exchange mine for the new ones but return shipping costs as much as just buying new ones.

I went ahead and ordered 1 new receiver so we'll see how it goes. The range is very good and I’ve not had any miss-fires so I really hope this will solve the problem. I’ve also had no issues using them as wireless remotes to trigger my cameras (7D, T1i) which is good.


Cameras - 5D MkII/Grip, 7D/Grip, T1i/Grip
Lens - EF-S 10-22, EF-S 18-55, EF 35-70, EF-S 55-250, EF 17-40L, EF 24-105L IS, EF 70-200 2.8L IS, EF 70-210, EF 100-400L, Sigma 150-500 OS, EF 100L IS, EF 180L, EF 85 1.8, EF 50 1.8

  
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dannyss
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127 posts
Joined Apr 2008
     
Jan 17, 2011 09:20 |  #88

I just got an email from them telling me my replacement units have been shipped. I hope I get the newer ones. Any way to tell the difference?


1D MK IV, 24-105mm L, 15mm, 50mm f1.8II
Sony Nex-5,16mm
1D,40D-gripped,50-f1.8II,28-135mm,Zenitar 16, FD500mm mirror (All lost to fire :()
A-1, FD50-f1.8, FD100-300mm

  
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Tiffany37055
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Jan 24, 2011 15:34 |  #89

can anyone help me figure this out?

I am seriously NOT techno savvy.. but have used the pocket wizards before and found them to be very basic; they went out and as a cheap alternative I ordered the MK-Rc7 no experience with these. it is showing that they are synced signal when shutter is released but no flash.

I am shooting with canon 40D and using White Lightning Ultra 1800 monolight. cannot get the flash to trigger even when pressing the rx manually. help!?!?

is something wrong with the product or is a setting I am missing??

I read all the reviews but most of is foreign to me.. I have a very limited knowledge of how all this works.




  
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Tiffany37055
Hatchling
2 posts
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Jan 24, 2011 15:35 as a reply to  @ Tiffany37055's post |  #90

my email is akphoto1@aol.com (external link) if I cant figure out how to get back to this forum. lol




  
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Meike MK-RC7 2.4Ghz wireless trigger (Yungnuo RF-602 Clone)
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