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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Architecture, Real-Estate & Buildings 
Thread started 15 Jul 2010 (Thursday) 14:37
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A thread for real estate, architectural, and interior design photography

 
mikekelley
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Jan 19, 2011 21:04 |  #991

Cucamonga Al wrote in post #11675458 (external link)
Mike, here is a site that I think might interest you (and maybe others), Atticfire.com. Some of the best work I've seen in my 60 some odd years of photography. Regards, Al

Hey Al,

Actually they are pretty much what I aspire to be. However they probably are billing 5x what I am and have multiple helping hands...

I've been following those guys for awhile, and I've learned a ton from reading about their methods. The principals are frequent contributors to some British Photoshop magazine that costs like $20 at barnes and noble, and I've picked up some tips through that.


Los Angeles-Based Architectural, Interior, And Luxury Real Estate Photography (external link)
How To Photograph Real Estate and Architecture (external link)
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ChasP505
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Jan 20, 2011 15:29 |  #992

Architective wrote in post #11671835 (external link)
Good comments. I am not sure how to shoot the upper sign on the building to keep it from blasting out. Even when you just look at it, it's overlit in reality. Would AEB way underexposed help this? I'll try adjusting the white balance; I always shoot in RAW.

Architective... A couple pages back, I posted a link to a blog site from respected NM architectural photographer Kirk Gittings. The reason I did so is because he has many fine examples of Albuquerque and Santa Fe area photos and loads of discussion about technique and equipment. You can also see a lot of his work in the monthly SuCasa Magazine.

Kirk seems to be a very friendly guy and responds well to posts on his blog or direct email.

http://kirkgittingspho​tography.blogspot.com/ (external link)
http://www.gittingspho​to.com/content.html?pa​ge=3 (external link)
http://www.sucasamagaz​ine.com/index.html (external link)


Chas P
"It doesn't matter how you get there if you don't know where you're going!"https://photography-on-the.net …p?p=10864029#po​st10864029

  
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Architective
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Jan 20, 2011 19:16 as a reply to  @ post 11675464 |  #993

Can we talk lighting control setups? I'm a bit confused by all the pocketwizardsand what they do. I'm looking to buy a setup that will eventually end up as flexible as Mike's,but do the job of firing the shutter and one flash remotely for now. Can someone help demystify this a bit for me?




  
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Architective
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Jan 20, 2011 21:51 as a reply to  @ Architective's post |  #994

Chas - I enjoy Kirks work and have spent quite a bit of time on his site and reading his blogs. Although I haven't met him, I feel like I can pick his style and work out of a lineup. He's a great resource from what he's published and posted. Thanks for posting those links Chas..




  
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mikekelley
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Jan 20, 2011 22:31 |  #995

apixelintime wrote in post #11671621 (external link)
Couple of things hime me in an odd way:

1) The name if the clinic. I have a hard time reading it. Someone spent a lot of time thinking up a name and then spent some more time and cash having the sign made/installed - make it stand out.

2) Watch your horrozons. (and watch my spelling)

3) the time of day you shot these at is really nice, I love the color of the sky that you captured. I do not like the color of the lights. Dont know if you are shooting RAW but why dont you try PP'g them to white balance for tungstun and see how that looks.

4) Details. One of your shots, on the right side close to the top there is a stray branch showing. Easy fix.


add to that - fix verticals. they need to be vertical. this is a 2 second fix in photoshop on each photo.

it's time for some artificial light and light painting, me thinks. you just need more control over exposure when you have 20 different lights all with different power and color temperatures. and i see you just asked about flash ;) so you got the right idea there. i use pocketwizards for everything. triggering the camera, triggering the flashes, controlling the flash power, etc. it's pricey. but cheap triggers are NOT going to cut it in this type of work where you are going to be walking around one hundred, possibly more feet from your camera at times trying to trip lights.


Los Angeles-Based Architectural, Interior, And Luxury Real Estate Photography (external link)
How To Photograph Real Estate and Architecture (external link)
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mikekelley
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Jan 20, 2011 22:35 |  #996

PS did someone say attic fire?

:lol:

one light HIGH (maybe twelve feet?) about two feet to the left of the tripod in a big umbrella raining light down on everything, balanced against the window. for a base exposure. flash accents everywhere. pocketwizard mini, flexes, ac3. about 30 layers. dodge/burn, curves, MASSIVE amounts of cloning, etc

before:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5374089033_a376f0ac74_z.jpg

after:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

Los Angeles-Based Architectural, Interior, And Luxury Real Estate Photography (external link)
How To Photograph Real Estate and Architecture (external link)
My Fine Art Galleries (external link)
My articles at Fstoppers.com (external link)

  
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Todd ­ Lambert
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Jan 21, 2011 00:36 |  #997

mikekelley wrote in post #11682918 (external link)
IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

Amazing work. However, the wood ceiling needs some attention. :p

Nice work Mike, that's a helluva before/after.




  
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madmanscam
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Jan 21, 2011 04:13 |  #998

Hello All,

I am based in India and have just started off with architecture photography. Could anyone enlighten me about what kinda postprocessing I can do for simple images of a hotel room ?

Arvind


EOS 5D/ EOD 7D/ EOS 30D / Sigma 10-20 EX F/4-5.6 / Sigma 17-70 F/2.8-4.5 / Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 Mk II / Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM / Canon EF 70-200L F/2.8 USM / Sigma 50-500 EX F/4-6.3
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trowal
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Jan 21, 2011 04:58 as a reply to  @ madmanscam's post |  #999

Hi all, firstly let me explain where I'm coming from. I run my own building consultancy company and some of the builders that I work for have gotten to know I dabble in a bit of amateur photography and asked me to take photo's of jobs we've worked on together. Anyway I understand the HDR/PP work flows, what I'm trying to get my head around is the workflow on site. I think I've got the camera height/position sorted, obviously full manual mode, ISO 100, F8+ and set shutter speed to accordingly to create the various shots for the HDR. Hows my understanding so far?

What I want to know is how do you set your camera for the flash fill pics. I'm assuming you keep the ISO and F stop the same, what flash power, full manual or Av mode? I've go a EX580ii and EX430ii so I can use ETTL for the flash pics and also some dumb cactus wireless triggers if the canon infrared gives me issues but no TTL with these.

Thanks in advance.


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ScottKCooper
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Jan 21, 2011 05:26 |  #1000

welcome Trowal! I think if you review some of this thread you will see how some folks walk a flash around the room to better light it, and then pull the images together in layers, and remove all but the lit part in each layer. or use your bracketing on your camera to properly expose for the windows, and then better expose for the room. Show us some of your shots, and we can help you!

Oh, and you can set to about 400 ISO and be fine. Just use your tripod for all of this work.


https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1276863

  
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ScottKCooper
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Jan 21, 2011 05:29 |  #1001

mikekelley wrote in post #11682918 (external link)
PS did someone say attic fire?

:lol:

one light HIGH (maybe twelve feet?) about two feet to the left of the tripod in a big umbrella raining light down on everything, balanced against the window. for a base exposure. flash accents everywhere. pocketwizard mini, flexes, ac3. about 30 layers. dodge/burn, curves, MASSIVE amounts of cloning, etc

awesome - kelley-fire!


https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1276863

  
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trowal
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Jan 21, 2011 06:46 |  #1002

ScottKCooper wrote in post #11684234 (external link)
walk a flash around the room to better light it

Firstly Scott, thanks for answering. ^^^^This is the bit I'm having trouble understanding. If you expose for the widows (or sky outside, basically the highest light levels in the shot), then add a flash to better expose/highlight areas, do you leave the camera set to expose the window or something else? How do you know what settings to have the flash on? Is this an experienced guess? Calculated and if so how? Light meter? TTL? Get close enough and adjust exposure during PP before cropping out the exposed areas and layering?

Thanks again?


Canon 50D gipped, Canon 24-70 2.8L, Sigma 50 1.4 EX DG HSM, Sigma 10-20 4-5.6 EX DC HSM, Canon 580 EX II, Canon 430 EX II, Sekonic L-358, Cactus tirggers and some other stuff in the bottom of the camera bag

  
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TGrundvig
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Jan 21, 2011 09:02 |  #1003

trowal wrote in post #11684431 (external link)
Firstly Scott, thanks for answering. ^^^^This is the bit I'm having trouble understanding. If you expose for the widows (or sky outside, basically the highest light levels in the shot), then add a flash to better expose/highlight areas, do you leave the camera set to expose the window or something else? How do you know what settings to have the flash on? Is this an experienced guess? Calculated and if so how? Light meter? TTL? Get close enough and adjust exposure during PP before cropping out the exposed areas and layering?

Thanks again?

The approach is different for different people. When I am shooting a HDR shoot I shoot my full AEB bracket with the lights on. Then, I pop off several frames pointing the flash in different directions to fill in shadows. Then, I do my HDR bracketing, which is not the same as most and pretty lengthy to explain, but once I have my final HDR bracketed image I create a blend of all the flash frames. This blended image is then used as a layer in PS to bring out the shadows.

Now, with Mike, what he does is he captures his AEB bracket and while the camera is still on the tripod he goes around the room with a flash and points it at certain features (fireplace, frame on the wall, cabinets, pool table, etc.). He uses a wireless setup to control the camera and the flash. Then, he takes all those 'accent light' images and makes layers out of them in PS. Then....he does what he does. It is quite time consuming but the results are great, as you can see. Before you go jumping into that level of PP I would make sure your clients are willing to pay you for your time. Mike's clients pay a very nice price for what he does. In my market, they would never pay that kind of price. So, make sure your market will support fees between $500 and $1,000 before you start doing that kind of work. Even my HDR stuff is pretty time consuming and I have a hard time getting clients to pay half of what Mike charges. This is why I offer two types of photography, my HDR series and my standard series. The standard series is camera, lens, tripod and flash. I don't worry about window views and in most shots the windows are blown out. My clients are happy with that. Now, I do apply some Topaz Adjust features, noise reduction (if necessary), and some sharpening. I have all the PP set up into one Action I created in PS. The Action applies the effects, saves, and closes the images for me. That is my 'standard' work flow. It is still better than 90% of the photos out there in my market. It may be just fine in your market as well. It allows me to offer a package that is very affordable and keeps me very busy. Mike is just as busy as me, but he spends a lot more time in PS and I spend a lot more time at the properties doing shoots. It is two completely different approaches but both are working. So, know your market.


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ScottKCooper
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Jan 21, 2011 10:13 |  #1004

excellent comparison. I am in Tyler's boat, but I need to do some really whiz-bang pamphlets to show them what can be done on their special listings - for a special price!


https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1276863

  
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TheReal7
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Jan 21, 2011 11:07 |  #1005

I commend all of you who spend so much time in shooting and processing. I am doing the opposite. I have my method pretty streamlined. I usually shoot a house in less then an hour and with my new PC and a bunch of actions and presets I've set up it takes about 1-2 min per image to process. If I take the time to compose and expose properly I can usual go through a 3 exposure HDR in about a minute. No photomatix anymore. Manual blending. I use Topaz Adjust to blend in a little pop and viola. Done! The great thing about my new system is I get very consistent and repeatable results. My long term goal is to have 8-10 shoots a week and work 10-15 hrs and make much more then my full time job now.


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