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Thread started 21 Oct 2010 (Thursday) 01:03
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BlackRapid FastenR-T1 WARNING!

 
Raylon
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Jan 23, 2011 15:08 |  #181

nitehawk55 wrote in post #11696893 (external link)
Pretty sure the mount will be aluminum .

Okay, I for some reason figured a stainless part would be molded into the alloy body. I felt like the fastener that comes with the RS-7 is better because it has the rubber spacer to allow for tighter fastening and holds the screw in place.


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cpforyou
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Jan 28, 2011 00:45 |  #182

Question... why not use the original d-rings that come with the mounting plates instead of replacing it with the FR-T1?


  
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Snydremark
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Jan 28, 2011 01:30 |  #183

cpforyou wrote in post #11729483 (external link)
Question... why not use the original d-rings that come with the mounting plates instead of replacing it with the FR-T1?

Because, that part is not built or designed to be a load-bearing part, and the d-ring can separate from the bolt head, dropping your camera to the ground. It's more of a pot metal c-clip and doesn't even run all the way through the bolt head. The FR-T1 is a solid bar, all the way through, and welded at each end so it can't pry off.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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tdodd
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Feb 12, 2011 03:34 |  #184

I just received a new DR2 strap and a couple of FastenR-T1s, direct from Black Rapid. I have noticed that the screws/bolts of the T1s are shorter and with one thread turn less than the original part. This means there is far less metal clinging on to a potentially heavy load. I'm concerned that this might lead to stripped threads when tightening fully or simply letting go when faced with a big load like a 70-200/2.8, 1D3 and 580EX. Here is a picture showing how much thread and length/penetration the T1 offers vs the Manfrotto original....

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO


That does not seem like a lot of metal to me. The tripod hole in my DSLR cameras appears capable of taking at least double the length and that goes even for my little Fuji compact. I don't understand why the Black Rapid design is so short.

Also, when tightened into place firmly it is quite hard to move the D-ring, either to lay it flat or to prise it up again. There is a lot of force/friction between the D-ring and the back of the QR plate. It seems to operate much like a cammed quick release for a bicycle wheel and I'm concerned that this is putting additional stress on what already appears to be a somewhat marginal grip between the threads. I have contacted Black rapid to express my worries, but wonder if I'm being overly pessimistic. I wonder what other people have found and their thoughts on this.



  
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Snydremark
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Feb 12, 2011 10:13 |  #185

tdodd wrote in post #11827090 (external link)
I just received a new DR2 strap and a couple of FastenR-T1s, direct from Black Rapid. I have noticed that the screws/bolts of the T1s are shorter and with one thread turn less than the original part. This means there is far less metal clinging on to a potentially heavy load. I'm concerned that this might lead to stripped threads when tightening fully or simply letting go when faced with a big load like a 70-200/2.8, 1D3 and 580EX. Here is a picture showing how much thread and length/penetration the T1 offers vs the Manfrotto original....

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Byte size: ZERO


That does not seem like a lot of metal to me. The tripod hole in my DSLR cameras appears capable of taking at least double the length and that goes even for my little Fuji compact. I don't understand why the Black Rapid design is so short.

Also, when tightened into place firmly it is quite hard to move the D-ring, either to lay it flat or to prise it up again. There is a lot of force/friction between the D-ring and the back of the QR plate. It seems to operate much like a cammed quick release for a bicycle wheel and I'm concerned that this is putting additional stress on what already appears to be a somewhat marginal grip between the threads. I have contacted Black rapid to express my worries, but wonder if I'm being overly pessimistic. I wonder what other people have found and their thoughts on this.

You're being overly pessimistic :) The screw seats in more than enough to stay securely attached; there was a pretty good description somewhere earlier in the thread, although I don't recall which page that was on.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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tdodd
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Feb 12, 2011 10:33 |  #186

OK, thanks. I did a bit of a skim through the later pages, since the revised T1 was released, or so I thought, but didn't find any comments about the short thread. I'll look harder. :)




  
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nitehawk55
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Feb 12, 2011 13:48 as a reply to  @ tdodd's post |  #187

The FR-T1 is a high grade steel . I don't think there would be any issues with the threads . I know when I 1st looked too I thought the same but once that puppy is seated it isn't going anywhere ! :cool:

Note.....do not overtighten , that might be an issue for the mag-alloy bodies soft threads , you just want it firmly snug .




  
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tdodd
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Feb 12, 2011 13:58 |  #188

Thanks again. I got nervous yesterday when snugging it firmly into the tripod foot of my 100-400 and after going fairly tight it suddenly "popped" and went loose. I feared I'd stripped threads on one or other but it seems to have tightened up again OK. Hopefully it was something just settling between the components. Anyway, it's now in place with some threadlocker so hopefully will be going nowhere any time soon, until I want it to.

Cheers all. :)

p.s. my pessimism stems from an unfortunate incident with my Cotton Carrier, in which I've now lost confidence, and was a significant factor in my decision to get the Black Rapid.




  
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Agged
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Feb 15, 2011 11:41 as a reply to  @ tdodd's post |  #189

A heads up guys and gals. I love this product and will stick with it, but be sure to regularly check the tightness of your screw. I was out for a two hour shoot with my 50D and 70-200 2.8 and when I got home it had almost backed out. :cry: I made sure it was really snug when I left.

I'm not sure I want to go the Loc-Tite route.


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tdodd
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Feb 15, 2011 11:47 |  #190

I use Loctite 222, which is a light duty threadlocker and can be unscrewed with a bit of effort. You only need a tiny drop to stop unwanted loosening. I bought some after my Cotton Carrier disaster and now I have it on the T1s for my Black Rapid DR2.

http://www.loctite.co.​uk …der&redDotUID=1​000000I7EX (external link)




  
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tdodd
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Feb 16, 2011 10:47 |  #191

tdodd wrote in post #11829300 (external link)
I got nervous yesterday when snugging it firmly into the tripod foot of my 100-400 and after going fairly tight it suddenly "popped" and went loose. I feared I'd stripped threads on one or other but it seems to have tightened up again OK. Hopefully it was something just settling between the components. Anyway, it's now in place with some threadlocker so hopefully will be going nowhere any time soon, until I want it to.

I've just had cause to remove the T1 from that lens and found metallic fragments came out attached to the T1. I've never seen that with any of my Manfrotto fixings. I reckon I may have well partially stripped the threads on my tripod ring. Not good. I emailed Black Rapid last week about my concerns and so far have not received a reply. Disappointing.

Anyway, I've come up with a revised solution, which is to stick with the original Manfrotto bolts and to use a pair of Manfrotto MN323 QR platforms (external link) into which I've screwed (with Loctite 222) the two FastenR-3s that were supplied with the DR-2. This now gives me full interchangeability between three bodies and two bigger lenses without swapping components around and I now also have a QR system to attach and detach my cameras/lenses from the DR-2.




  
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htrieu
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Feb 18, 2011 22:25 |  #192

Hello, can someone explain to me how to remove the d-ring from the stock Manfrotto bolt and attach it to the new T1? The bundled instructions suck. Thanks!




  
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Snydremark
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Feb 18, 2011 22:33 |  #193

htrieu wrote in post #11871393 (external link)
Hello, can someone explain to me how to remove the d-ring from the stock Manfrotto bolt and attach it to the new T1? The bundled instructions suck. Thanks!

Take a fork or other device with point, and pop the spring clip off the top of the QR plate, pull out the stock bolt. Then reverse for the new parts.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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htrieu
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Feb 18, 2011 22:40 |  #194

Snydremark wrote in post #11871424 (external link)
Take a fork or other device with point, and pop the spring clip off the top of the QR plate, pull out the stock bolt. Then reverse for the new parts.

Hi Snydremark, do you mean pry it straight up through the threads? Not to the side?




  
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Snydremark
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Feb 18, 2011 22:47 |  #195

htrieu wrote in post #11871459 (external link)
Hi Snydremark, do you mean pry it straight up through the threads? Not to the side?

No, push across the face of the plate; away from the open end of the spring clip


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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BlackRapid FastenR-T1 WARNING!
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