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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Motorsports Talk 
Thread started 25 Jan 2011 (Tuesday) 08:22
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Wheel Motion...

 
BreitlingFan
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Jan 25, 2011 08:22 |  #1
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Nothing looks better in a racing shot than being able to capture a nice, sharply focused car while seeing the motion of the wheels in the same shot. This is not news.

I'll be shooting with a Sigma 50-500mm this weekend, and want to make sure I can get that wheel motion. I'll have a monopod at my disposal. If I'm shooting at the 500mm range, my shutter speed is going to have to be kinda' high. Do I have any legitimate hope of getting that wheel motion, as well as getting the car nice and sharp, considering that I'll be panning?

Any suggestions?

Thanks!


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whuband
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Jan 25, 2011 09:47 |  #2

I saw your earlier post about Daytona, so I assume that's what you are asking about. If you are not credentialed then I would recommend the exit of turn 5. You'll find some nice afternoon sunlight (which is forecast) and can be shot from the bleachers with a 500mm. ( shoot thru the fence cutouts if you are credentialed) This is good on Saturday afternoon before the cars get beat up. You might also shoot from the grandstands exiting the International Horseshoe (turn 3).

In addition to your wheel motion, you should concentrate on background motion. Pan with the cars at 1/100 or slower to get both wheel and background blur. You'll get a lot of bad ones but the good ones will be outstanding.

Speaking of outstanding, there are a lot of outstanding race photographers on this forum. Search some of the old posts for ideas.


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DazJW
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Jan 25, 2011 10:11 |  #3

Don't buy too heavily into the 'rules' about shutter speed and focal length. The popular one is too conservative anyway and the actual speed will vary hugely from person to person.

I've got 1/40 pans from a 200mm lens and I'm sure there are people here who can beat that by a decent margin.




  
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DC ­ Fan
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Jan 25, 2011 10:16 |  #4

BreitlingFan wrote in post #11710459 (external link)
If I'm shooting at the 500mm range, my shutter speed is going to have to be kinda' high. Do I have any legitimate hope of getting that wheel motion, as well as getting the car nice and sharp, considering that I'll be panning?

It depends on how the camera is operated.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Focal Length: 370.0mm
Aperture: f/18.0
Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
ISO equiv: 100
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No
Color Space: sRGB

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Focal Length: 330.0mm
Aperture: f/9.0
Exposure Time: 0.0063 s (1/160)
ISO equiv: 100
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Center Weight
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No
Color Space: sRGB

If you have a steady hand and can cleanly track the target, it can be done, regardless of distance or focal length. Of course, with a long focal length, a slow shutter speed and a moving target, not every image will have the qualities you want.



  
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Richard ­ Brewer
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Jan 25, 2011 14:08 |  #5

My advice is to follow the car before and after the picture is taken, don't get to hung up on shutter speed 1/250 usually gets good results depending on how fast car is going.
My other advice is to practice (and practice and practice) beforehand, stand a safe distance from a local road and take panning pictures of cars, trucks, bikes...anything.


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philwillmedia
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Jan 27, 2011 02:02 |  #6

BreitlingFan wrote in post #11710459 (external link)
If I'm shooting at the 500mm range, my shutter speed is going to have to be kinda' high. Do I have any legitimate hope of getting that wheel motion, as well as getting the car nice and sharp, considering that I'll be panning?

Generally not at high shutter speeds.
Start at 1/200th (or there abouts) and work down.
When panning, I usually start at 1/125th and go down to as slow as 1/5 sec depending on what effect I'm after.

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davidtan
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Jan 28, 2011 12:21 |  #7

As others have said, practice is really essential - it can be frustrating at first, but once you master matching your movement to the car passing, you'll be able to get shots like the ones above.




  
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dinanm3atl
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Feb 08, 2011 15:26 |  #8

As said it really depends on where you are on the track. Panning a car going by or diving into a corner. This will change your shutter speed. Practice Practice Practice. That is what it takes. Years of work and practice you will be able to watch the cars, estimate speed and jump right in at any track and know.

With that said I keep a cheat sheet of some of the tracks I visit and the cars class(GT, GS and such). So a full blown 'epic' pan that might not have as many keepers and then a strong pan and then minor motion really sharp car. Helps me know what I am going to end up with for sure.


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FastSTi
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Feb 21, 2011 22:19 |  #9

I hate to throw my newbieness into this thread but really need to know what lens I would need to get pictures like the ones above? Obviously the cheaper the better. Maybe even a smaller lens to start with and gradually move up.

Thanks




  
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philwillmedia
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Feb 21, 2011 22:25 |  #10

You can pan with any lens.
It depends on how close you are and what effect you want.
I pan with anything from a Sigma 10mm fisheye through to an 800L


Regards, Phil
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FastSTi
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Feb 21, 2011 22:32 |  #11

Thanks, I suppose I should have been more specific. I want to be able to focus on my son during his sports and have everything but him blurred. Make more sense?

Thanks again.




  
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DazJW
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Feb 22, 2011 16:43 |  #12

It's nothing to do with the lens. It's shutter speed selection and accurate panning with a moving subject.




  
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Geejay
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Feb 23, 2011 16:23 |  #13

As the others have said, practice panning or tracking the subject with the camera and fire the shutter without stopping. Keep you elbows tucked in and swivel from the hips. I usually stand at 45 degrees to the track and check that I can swing smoothly through the target area before anything comes into view. In the old days I used to pre-focus on the piece of track where I expected to take the shot, still do in low light conditions. Useful for metering on the track too, very nearly a grey card tone.

Try to get into a rythmn and anticipate when you need to shoot.

You may find that the monopod gets in the way for panning. I've only tried to use one once or twice and found it a little awkward. That said, I am about to get a monopod which I think will come in handy for head-ons and 3/4 pans..

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hombre ­ complicado
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Feb 25, 2011 18:35 as a reply to  @ Geejay's post |  #14

Panning goes from 1/400 to 1/40 and beyond for me..

It all depends on what speed the car has and concentration.

A F1 car goes way faster around the same corner than a touring car..so 1/400 can be great to capture the f1 and have motion in your photo. While it will freeze frame the touring car and 1/125 will do it more justice.

The hardest thing to photograph is a Le Mans series race, they have LMP1 and LMP2 prototypes who are lightning fast and then GT1 and GT2 cars, which will look like slugs compared to the prototype class, that's 4 different speeds to look at.

I always use a monopod for panning shots and I follow the car through the viewfinder in the turn, and after it..follow..follow.fol​low..and the when the car is in symmetry with my camera, I unleash the fps


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dinanm3atl
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Feb 28, 2011 23:55 |  #15

Very good tip above. I start, grab focus and follow. Get the shots and follow through. Will be amazed if you don't just pop up camera and click click click. Spray and Pray is what I call that.


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