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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 07 Feb 2011 (Monday) 20:44
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confused on ambient WB

 
jeljohns
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Feb 07, 2011 20:44 |  #1

I want to start taking some food pictures in my kitchen using my flash off camera. The problem I have is I would like the pictures to look natural, like daylight, when I'm taking them inside at night. My lights in the kitchen are CF bulbs with a frosted dome on them and my walls are yellow. I'm having trouble knowing what color to balance for. I have gels but am unsure what one to use, if any.

Thanks




  
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gonzogolf
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Feb 07, 2011 20:47 |  #2

Its hard to accurately gel for fluorescent lights. The old tubes used to be a bit green, cfl's are all over the charts. I would start with the light green and see what does for you. Dont worry about the color of the walls.




  
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PacAce
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Feb 07, 2011 21:58 |  #3

jeljohns wrote in post #11798378 (external link)
I want to start taking some food pictures in my kitchen using my flash off camera. The problem I have is I would like the pictures to look natural, like daylight, when I'm taking them inside at night. My lights in the kitchen are CF bulbs with a frosted dome on them and my walls are yellow. I'm having trouble knowing what color to balance for. I have gels but am unsure what one to use, if any.

Thanks

Why not totally eliminate the ambient light altogether and just shoot with your flashes/strobes. Then you won't need to worry about matching their color temperatures. Also think about getting an X-rite ColorChecker chart or the ColorChecker Passport and the associated ColorChecker Passport software (assuming you're using PS or LR for your post processing) if you really want the colors to be "true".


...Leo

  
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Hoppy1
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Feb 07, 2011 22:23 |  #4

This is what custom white balance is for. Set up your shot and put a sheet of white paper where the subject is, so that it fills the centre circle in the viewfinder and take a shot. Select custom white balance and use that image for the camera to zero the white balance on. Just make sure that the white paper is not blown to over exposure, or so dark that the image has too much noise in it. It takes five seconds, job done (see handbook).

You only need to gel the flash if you have mixed light sources, like flash in the forgound and tungsten light in the background, and need to balance them. That shouldn't be the case here. Flash should effectively be your sole light source, even if you bounce it. Shoot at max x-sync speed to ensure that the ambient light doesn't have a chance of influencing the colour and you'll be fine.


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Snydremark
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Feb 07, 2011 22:35 |  #5

PacAce wrote in post #11798811 (external link)
Why not totally eliminate the ambient light altogether and just shoot with your flashes/strobes. Then you won't need to worry about matching their color temperatures. Also think about getting an X-rite ColorChecker chart or the ColorChecker Passport and the associated ColorChecker Passport software (assuming you're using PS or LR for your post processing) if you really want the colors to be "true".

This is the way I'd approach, too. Set WB to flash (or custom WB, if available, for strobes) and just use flash/strobe to supply all your light.


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JOSX2
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Feb 07, 2011 23:04 |  #6

Snydremark wrote in post #11799000 (external link)
This is the way I'd approach, too. Set WB to flash (or custom WB, if available, for strobes) and just use flash/strobe to supply all your light.

Snydremark wrote in post #11799000 (external link)
This is the way I'd approach, too. Set WB to flash (or custom WB, if available, for strobes) and just use flash/strobe to supply all your light.

& make sure you're shooting at your max sync speed as well when using the flash as your main light. this way, no ambient light will find it's way into the pic.


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jeljohns
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Feb 08, 2011 08:31 as a reply to  @ JOSX2's post |  #7

Will using just one flash look natural or too "flashy"? I guess I thought I had to have some light on in the room to avoid that flash look....




  
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JOSX2
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Feb 08, 2011 08:37 |  #8

if you shoot ETTL, it'll look fine. You can dial down the FEC a little if you think the shot looks too harsh, but it should look fine.

*EDITED 2nd time*
found HSS picsw/ the flash bounced off the ceiling. These were when I was first learning how to use the flash at HSS indoors. The ISO's at 1600 (I may have bumped down the FEC to compensate), but I prolly could've dropped it down to 400 & left FEC around 0

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Redirected to error image by ZENFOLIO PROTECTED

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/png' | Redirected to error image by ZENFOLIO PROTECTED

website: Jim O'Sullivan Photography (external link) | Facebook (external link)
The Camera:  |- Gripped 60D  -|- EF-S 50mm f/1.8 II -|- Canon 24-70mm f/4 -|- Canon 70-200 f/4 -|
Speedlights:   |- 3 Yongnou YN600EX-RT Speedlights -|- YN-E3-RT Transmitter -|
Studio Strobes:  |- Alien Bee B800 & B1600 -|- CyberSync Wireless system -|

  
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bobbyz
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Feb 08, 2011 08:40 |  #9

josullivan79 wrote in post #11799145 (external link)
& make sure you're shooting at your max sync speed as well when using the flash as your main light. this way, no ambient light will find it's way into the pic.

Partially correct.

The ISO and aperture also have equal effects on changing ambient. I know it is assumed the OP will be shooting at ISO100 and apertures like f8. But he could shoot at max sync speed and say aperture of f1.2 and ISO of say 200 and get lot of ambient.

Indoors in studio environment choice of aperture and ISO has more weight where the ambient is compared to flash expsoure rather than the shutter speed. I can shoot at 1/60 or 1/250 and no change in ambient as I am at lowest ISO of 100 and apertures of f8 or so.

Best is take a shot with your choosen settings and without flash. Your frame should be almost black if not totally black.


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bobbyz
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Feb 08, 2011 08:44 |  #10

jeljohns wrote in post #11800715 (external link)
Will using just one flash look natural or too "flashy"? I guess I thought I had to have some light on in the room to avoid that flash look....

Then why do you want the output to look like daylight picture? Like mentioned by the other poster above, just use some bounce fill flash.


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Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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JOSX2
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Feb 08, 2011 08:46 |  #11

bobbyz wrote in post #11800763 (external link)
Partially correct.

The ISO and aperture also have equal effects on changing ambient. I know it is assumed the OP will be shooting at ISO100 and apertures like f8. But he could shoot at max sync speed and say aperture of f1.2 and ISO of say 200 and get lot of ambient.

Indoors in studio environment choice of aperture and ISO has more weight where the ambient is compared to flash expsoure rather than the shutter speed. I can shoot at 1/60 or 1/250 and no change in ambient as I am at lowest ISO of 100 and apertures of f8 or so.

true true. I was thinking that being he'd be taking pics of food, there wouldnt' be much background light he'd have to worry about since there's not much of a distance between subject & background, and that the flash would provide enough fill light for the image (hence, not letting in any ambient light). But , if he's got a background in the distance (as if shooting the food from the side), then yeah, what bobbyz said about ISO & aperture affecting the ambient.


website: Jim O'Sullivan Photography (external link) | Facebook (external link)
The Camera:  |- Gripped 60D  -|- EF-S 50mm f/1.8 II -|- Canon 24-70mm f/4 -|- Canon 70-200 f/4 -|
Speedlights:   |- 3 Yongnou YN600EX-RT Speedlights -|- YN-E3-RT Transmitter -|
Studio Strobes:  |- Alien Bee B800 & B1600 -|- CyberSync Wireless system -|

  
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JOSX2
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Feb 08, 2011 08:49 |  #12

OP - take 3 types of pics to see how it all looks different:
1) snap @ HSS w/ flash
2) snap w/ no flash (use Av mode & EC to get proper exposure)
3) snap in Av mode with flash, but dial down the FEC -1 to -2 stops to provide a light fill so you have ambient still being the main lighting source

& FYI - you'll find w/ 2 & 3, you're gonna get long shutter speeds if you're at ISO 400 or 800 (maybe as low as 1/25). Even though you think it's bright inside with ambient light, it's not bright enough for a fast shutter.


website: Jim O'Sullivan Photography (external link) | Facebook (external link)
The Camera:  |- Gripped 60D  -|- EF-S 50mm f/1.8 II -|- Canon 24-70mm f/4 -|- Canon 70-200 f/4 -|
Speedlights:   |- 3 Yongnou YN600EX-RT Speedlights -|- YN-E3-RT Transmitter -|
Studio Strobes:  |- Alien Bee B800 & B1600 -|- CyberSync Wireless system -|

  
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confused on ambient WB
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
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